I did the same as above on his suggestion.

 

Thanks Donk,It's not hard if you have any mechanical skills at all.Wow you have to remove some screws and cut a couple of clamps.You do have to work it alittle to get the right position to pull it out of the hole.

 

Some people are just extremely arrogantgifted mechanically inclinedhuman beings.


The rest of us are just whiney girls.

Just for the record, i've been twisting a wrench since I was 12. Racing motocross for 22 years, and racing circle track for 11, and restored 2 dirt bikes, and my current '82 Suzuki. So don't dump on my presumed ability as"lack of skills".....

 

Not a real hard job, just need patience. The service manual gives good instructions, do you have one?

 

I charge 1 hr labor + parts that's $55.00 at my shop in Trinity Texas , for going into the tank for any reason. Alias Smith and Jones V-Twins 936-744-1290

 

I wouldn't classify myself as extremely mechanically gifted, but I bought a carb after market tank, drilled out the EFI assembly and welded it in place in the new one, pulled out the guts and put them in the new one without even glancing at the manual. Time consuming? I guess if you call an hour to swap the guts time consuming, then yes it is. Hard to do? Not in the least. Would I pay anyone to do it for me? Not in a million years.

 

I agree!

Not a hard job when using a manual.

Pulled the entire guts out of my Street Bob, replaced the filters and hoses and put it back in. Entire process was about a 3 beer job. Finished the last 3 beers while admiring my work.

They say to replace the gasket and screws. The screws have a gasket around the top to seal everything. I put in a new gasket, but not new screws. There are many posts here that say you can re-use the screws with out leakage. I did not have any leaks.

 

The December issue of American has a complete article on switching out a fuel tank, electric pump and all, shows exactly how to do it.

 

Go get a shop manual dude. Take the time to do it yourself. You will enjoy the final results that much more cause YOU did it.

 

The advice on masking the tank is a good one.

Who cares about a buck or two for new screws. Do it.

The filter kit for Softails of my year(s) comes with a new upper hose. Get a lower hose/petcock kit and do that, too. Then you won't have to worry about the dreaded 'hole rubbed in the hose' characteristic of some HD tanks.

Get a shop manual for your bike if you don't have one. Finding a YouTube video that exactly matches your model will be a stroke of luck. Watching one will give you an idea, however, of what is involved.

Cut the upper fuel line to remove the unit. It makes it easier on most models because it gives you more space to extract the pump/filter unit. Note that each model can have its quirks with spacing and configuration so your shop manual is the best resource.

It is possible to connect the wiring backwards because the connectors will go together in either direction. Pay attention when you remove it.

The greatest potential for dinging your tank is from the dangling dash panel.

Check the rubber isolator on the bottom of your fuel pump to make sure it hasn't split due to wear. If it looks suspicious, replace it. It's cheap.

In the case of my Nightrain the issues with the most potential problems were:

1. Figuring out how the swinging bracket that supports the fuel pump works if you have never seen one.

2. Getting the new hose from the filter kit to go on over the nipple on the new filter. If it has been sitting around for a while it can be pretty stiff. I had to carefully reduce the diameter of the nipple to get the hose to go on.

No special tools required except possibly for the clamping pliers used to tighten the hose clamps and clamping pliers to cut off the flow from the side to side fuel hose on the tank when you take it off the bike. You will also need a rubber nipple to put on the the fuel tank hose fitting that you disconnect the side to side fuel hose from.

Good luck.

C#