Hey all,
I am having a problem I hope some can help me with.

This morning I was heading out for a ride. Put the key in and unlocked the bike. Turned the ignition switch on (kill switch always on start) and thumbed the starter. Bike started to turn over and then quit. All lights on the dash are out and head lamp is out. Turned the switch to accessories and have lights on the dash and odometer. Turn switch back to run and nothing.

I checked and all fuses are fine. Battery has good voltage 12.76 volts. Battery Tender reports battery as charged.
I am going to head out and check my ground from the negative battery post to the frame.

I am not good at all with electrical issues so I was looking for some guidance as I really don't want to have it towed to get it repaired.

I have two thoughts right now, assuming my ground is fine.
Ignition switch or main circuit breaker
I see there is a 30amp main circuit breaker back behind the fender. It seems like it is going to be a pain to get at it. Will a simple continuity test across the posts on the ignition switch verify that the switch is ok?

If I need to tear the bike apart to get at the main circuit breaker what is the best way to test the breaker.

2001 FLSTFI (Fuel Injected)

Any and all suggestions are appreciated.

 

My brothers 2001 Fatboy had problems like that from water in the ignition switch, a shot of WD40 fixed it

 

At switch now, will give it a shot.

 

No luck. I have a feeling i will be getting at the main CB.

 

If you have a spare piece of wire, you can quickly bypass the switch and try to start, if it does, it's teh switch.

Like he mentioned, if it's the switch, then it's either water that rusted corroded it, or faulty switch.

If you wnat to ride, bypass the switch with the wire, and use the kill switch for now, and replace the switch after the wekend.

~Joe

 

It started then died, so it's probably a fuse...and the fuse would blow if there is a fault somewhere.

Check your main fuse again.

~Joe

 

Do you have a metal splash guard? I had my circuit breaker come out of it's holder and short out on the metal splash guard. that is the only thing I can think of. If not, check that the cables on the circuit breaker cables are tight too. With the stock splash guard it is 2 botls to remove it. Simple.

Drew

 

Checked and rechecked all "fuses" checked them with continuity meter. When you say main fuse do you mean the main 30 amp circuit breaker? I am at that breaker now. Will a continuity check across the posts tell me if it is working? I just did that and dont have continuity across the posts. Sorry for any typos. Typing on my phone.

 

Plastic splash guard. Got at the switch, checked continuity across the posts. Nothing. I am going to replace that breaker and go from there.
I am assuming that test told me it is bad, but not really sure.

 

First, let's verify that you have power though the ignition switch. Check your ECM fuse. If it is good then gain access to the ignition switch. We know you have power to the IGN switch because you have power to the red wire, which connects to the red/grey wire in the ACC position. When in the RUN position you should have power to the red/black wire as well. If you don't have power to both of the red/black and red/grey wires you can solder in a temp SPST switch until you get a new switch. Can you solder?