Need help finding risers for Xbones springer
I recently installed 16" apes on my xbones ... First problem I'm having is excessive movement in the stock risers . I know they have bushings in there , but I'm not happy with all that play ... second problem is the bars are slipping back , no matter how much I tighten the risers caps.... and I even stripped one out ... So with that , I want to go with a solid riser set up that has a better grip on the bars . I'm looking for Blk risers if anyone knows of a good brand ... I also know I would have to order riser adapter studs ( v~twin part # 370864 ) as I read in another post .
Any info would be greatly appreciated , thanks |
I have a 96 springer that Ive owned for 10 years.I know its not a x bones but still the same front end.Over the years Ive searched many vendors looking for a setup I liked.Fact is there just isnt much available for springers.
Eventualy I found a triple tree replacement plate made by Ness.It allows you to use any 3 1/2" riser/bar setup.It evens the playing field for bar options on a springer.It is a little pricey and not the easiest to install, but if you want a specific setup it allows you that option. Couldnt find the Ness product but the J&P is still offering this one. http://www.jpcycles.com/product/501-775 |
Goodntite bushings will fix the play in the risers....
A roll pin will fix the play in the bars. I took the easy route. I took rough grit sandpaper, cut it, folded on top of itself and put it between the risers and the bars.... haven't moved yet. The other option as mentioned above is to get an adapter plate......Carlini has one too, that allows you use non springer risers and bars... |
Originally Posted by hspring03
(Post 6755202)
Goodntite bushings will fix the play in the risers....
A roll pin will fix the play in the bars. I took the easy route. I took rough grit sandpaper, cut it, folded on top of itself and put it between the risers and the bars.... haven't moved yet. The other option as mentioned above is to get an adapter plate......Carlini has one too, that allows you use non springer risers and bars... and I really dont want to go with changing the top tree out ... |
First problem is the stripped riser (did the same thing to mine). Go get a helicoil kit from any auto parts shop for $20 and i guarantee you wont strip it again. Second is the slipping. Have you tried to use drywall sanding screen? Its thicker than sandpaper but still just as rough. Its almost impossible to find different risers for these things, i looked after i stripped mine out a few weeks back and couldn't find anything for less than $200.
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Originally Posted by rowdy82
(Post 6755708)
First problem is the stripped riser (did the same thing to mine). Go get a helicoil kit from any auto parts shop for $20 and i guarantee you wont strip it again. Second is the slipping. Have you tried to use drywall sanding screen? Its thicker than sandpaper but still just as rough. Its almost impossible to find different risers for these things, i looked after i stripped mine out a few weeks back and couldn't find anything for less than $200.
So do I still have to re~tap it even after gettting this helicoil kit ?? ..... and ya know its funny , I had drywall sanding screen in my hand , was thinking about it , but thought it would be too thick where I would definetly have a problem tightening the risers caps down w/o stripping them out , go figure , it happened anyway lol ... what risers did you find anyway that were expensive ? |
bumping this up
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All good info above. Good and tight bushings and helicoil the riser. Helicoiling the riser will allow the bars to be clamped down much tighter. Last but not least, use a chisel to knock some small burrs into the bars where the riser clamps are so they have something to grab on to. Did this with a set of apes and it worked great. It eliminated all the movement. Lastly, make sure the riser bolts are cranked down really tight.
Drew |
Originally Posted by DR. V-TWIN
(Post 6759611)
All good info above. Good and tight bushings and helicoil the riser. Helicoiling the riser will allow the bars to be clamped down much tighter. Last but not least, use a chisel to knock some small burrs into the bars where the riser clamps are so they have something to grab on to. Did this with a set of apes and it worked great. It eliminated all the movement. Lastly, make sure the riser bolts are cranked down really tight.
Drew |
Had the same issues until I tightened all the risers bolts to the correct torque specs. bars haven't moved since
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