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Custom project, engine to tranny alignment

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Old 05-24-2010, 01:31 PM
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Default Custom project, engine to tranny alignment

Help Please! I keep several bikes running but this is my first frame up HD custom. I have a "new" 99 evo engine a baker 6sp tranny and a softail daytech type frame with a 2" stretch/200mm wide . Inner primary bolts are hard to start due to slight tranny mount misalignment. My thought is to grind down the high side of the tranny mount so the tranny will sit square, bolts can finger tighten and all children will be happy. Appears to be ~ .030 high on one side from feeler guages. Does anyone see any problem with this approach? If I go too far I could always shim to align right. I know there should be no racking of the primary with everything torqued down.
Another issue if you please, I can not find out if I should use a 9/16" or 5/8" front master cyl for my single front disc, I am using a Wilwood caliper I think model 310. Is the difference in sensitivity or stopping ability. I lean toward the 5/8". This is my first post so thanks for taking time to reply.
Greg
 
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Old 05-24-2010, 01:48 PM
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Originally Posted by greg644
Help Please! I keep several bikes running but this is my first frame up HD custom. I have a "new" 99 evo engine a baker 6sp tranny and a softail daytech type frame with a 2" stretch/200mm wide . Inner primary bolts are hard to start due to slight tranny mount misalignment. My thought is to grind down the high side of the tranny mount so the tranny will sit square, bolts can finger tighten and all children will be happy. Appears to be ~ .030 high on one side from feeler guages. Does anyone see any problem with this approach? If I go too far I could always shim to align right. I know there should be no racking of the primary with everything torqued down.
Another issue if you please, I can not find out if I should use a 9/16" or 5/8" front master cyl for my single front disc, I am using a Wilwood caliper I think model 310. Is the difference in sensitivity or stopping ability. I lean toward the 5/8". This is my first post so thanks for taking time to reply.
Greg
Now I've never seen one that you have to cut the case down, most you need to shim under the trans. You are correct as to make sure everything just slides together and nothing is pulling on any piece. I would say if you have to machine the case then thats the way to go unless you move the motor a little, I would see if you can get the .030" by doing that first. As far as the master goes I'm not sure what you shold have but you are correct as far as the larger bore master will make it more sensitive, but will increase the clamping pressure of the caliper due to higher pressure. If it were me I would go with the 5/8" too
 
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Old 05-24-2010, 05:01 PM
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Thanks for the reply. What I'd be grinding is the tranny mounting plate which is welded in where the back side seems to be a little high (~ .030).
5/8" master cly it is.
 
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Old 05-24-2010, 07:32 PM
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Now that works
 
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