TC88 performance
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Elite HDF Member
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 4,357
Likes: 11
From: The Lone Star State
TC88 performance
As you know from my previous post I am leaning towards a PCIII or SERT because the download from HD has left me with a lot of pops and backfires.
So while I'm on the subject, I am looking for any pointers on getting my TC88 running as well as possible without doing a big bore kit. I am not sure I want to put that kind of cash into it at the moment.
So far I have aftermarket pipes, SE A/C kit, and download. What else can I do to increase performance? I am not looking for a racer, just a smooth running, well performing TC88.
thanks
So while I'm on the subject, I am looking for any pointers on getting my TC88 running as well as possible without doing a big bore kit. I am not sure I want to put that kind of cash into it at the moment.
So far I have aftermarket pipes, SE A/C kit, and download. What else can I do to increase performance? I am not looking for a racer, just a smooth running, well performing TC88.
thanks
Road Captain
Joined: Sep 2005
Posts: 583
Likes: 5
From: Maine
RE: TC88 performance
Well the question becomes, where do you start and where do you stop?
You pretty much have to tear into it somewhere if you want more. Once you start to tear into it, it only costs a little more to do a little more while it's apart. Next thing you know you are doing a complete build.
Back to your question, I always start with the heads because it is the heart of performance. Of course it's only a few hundred more to do the 95" kit at that point. And of course you really could use a cam to make good use of the upgrades and on and on.
The SERT will allow you to tune whatever you put on. If you decide to add more later, you can tune it too. Of course each tune cost more money.
I am biased but if I was just going to do one thing more, it would be the heads. Next choice would be cam. Then Big Bore after that.
You pretty much have to tear into it somewhere if you want more. Once you start to tear into it, it only costs a little more to do a little more while it's apart. Next thing you know you are doing a complete build.
Back to your question, I always start with the heads because it is the heart of performance. Of course it's only a few hundred more to do the 95" kit at that point. And of course you really could use a cam to make good use of the upgrades and on and on.
The SERT will allow you to tune whatever you put on. If you decide to add more later, you can tune it too. Of course each tune cost more money.
I am biased but if I was just going to do one thing more, it would be the heads. Next choice would be cam. Then Big Bore after that.
Road Master
Joined: Feb 2005
Posts: 1,056
Likes: 0
From: Phoenix, now in So Cal
RE: TC88 performance
The PCIII will take care of the popping, especially if you let a quality dyno tuner do it. Just for reference, the popping is a "lean pop" from running lean. It doesn't hurt the bike, though. I'd go with the PC first and see what you think before doing anything else. Dollar for dollar, probably the best first step.
Banned
Joined: Aug 2006
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From:
RE: TC88 performance
ORIGINAL: WARG
As you know from my previous post I am leaning towards a PCIII or SERT because the download from HD has left me with a lot of pops and backfires.
So while I'm on the subject, I am looking for any pointers on getting my TC88 running as well as possible without doing a big bore kit. I am not sure I want to put that kind of cash into it at the moment.
So far I have aftermarket pipes, SE A/C kit, and download. What else can I do to increase performance? I am not looking for a racer, just a smooth running, well performing TC88.
thanks
As you know from my previous post I am leaning towards a PCIII or SERT because the download from HD has left me with a lot of pops and backfires.
So while I'm on the subject, I am looking for any pointers on getting my TC88 running as well as possible without doing a big bore kit. I am not sure I want to put that kind of cash into it at the moment.
So far I have aftermarket pipes, SE A/C kit, and download. What else can I do to increase performance? I am not looking for a racer, just a smooth running, well performing TC88.
thanks
The best bang for the bucks without doing a big bore immediately. I'd do a PC, and go up one tooth in you're final gear. The 33 tooth gear I put in mine is the SINGLE best mod that I did. The bike feels smoother at all speeds. The 88 is strong enough to handle it. (It feels so right it should've come from the factory with this gearing). If you do these two mods you'll think you've got a new bike under you. When I do a big bore kit in the future I will probably go up one more gear.
Banned
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 1,433
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From: Denver Colorado
RE: TC88 performance
On my '06 I have a PCIII with a stock map from the CD I downloaded for my V&H pipes and Ness Big Sucker (map-wise it's the same IMO as a Screaming Eagle AC) I also have the 25* injectors...Bike runs much better and sounds GREAT w/ no popping. I'll be keeping an eye on the fuel mileage and on my spark plugs to make sure I'm not running rich...I don't plan to have it dyno tuned unless I have problems down the way (stumbling,popping,etc.) or I go deeper into engine mods (heads,cams,etc.)
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Elite HDF Member
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 4,357
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From: The Lone Star State
RE: TC88 performance
Anybody know if the PCIII fits easily under the seat on the 06's? My bike is a fatboy (obviously).
I am not familiar with the 25* injectors, what are they, what do they do, etc?
I am not familiar with the 25* injectors, what are they, what do they do, etc?
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Banned
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 1,433
Likes: 0
From: Denver Colorado
RE: TC88 performance
I installed mine behind the mud guard as per the PCIII instructions...but I have a '06 Standard w/200 rear tire...my rear fender doesn't have the recessed tray for the ECM. If your Fatboy has the recessed tray for the ECM they include a deeper tray so that the PCIII can be "piggybacked" on top of the ECM. There's a post in the D.I.Y. section that has the instructions for the PCIII. On '06 1450 engines the factory installed 8 degree injectors stock and on some bikes (mine was one) they cause cold-start stumbles and mine was intermittently cutting out even after it warmed up. I went to the dealer and they swapped them out for free...not all '06 bikes came out with the 8 degree injectors..there's a thread posted in the F.I. forum that has a link to the actual H-D service bulletin that explains the problem and shows you how to identify the 8 degree injectors...you can see the injectors if you look w/ a flashlight and there's a part # that identifies whether they're the 8 degree or the 25 degree type.
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HDF Community Team
Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 1,961
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From: The 1980's
RE: TC88 performance
ORIGINAL: springer_
You pretty much have to tear into it somewhere if you want more. Once you start to tear into it, it only costs a little more to do a little more while it's apart. Next thing you know you are doing a complete build.
Back to your question, I always start with the heads because it is the heart of performance. Of course it's only a few hundred more to do the 95" kit at that point. And of course you really could use a cam to make good use of the upgrades and on and on.
I am biased but if I was just going to do one thing more, it would be the heads. Next choice would be cam. Then Big Bore after that.
You pretty much have to tear into it somewhere if you want more. Once you start to tear into it, it only costs a little more to do a little more while it's apart. Next thing you know you are doing a complete build.
Back to your question, I always start with the heads because it is the heart of performance. Of course it's only a few hundred more to do the 95" kit at that point. And of course you really could use a cam to make good use of the upgrades and on and on.
I am biased but if I was just going to do one thing more, it would be the heads. Next choice would be cam. Then Big Bore after that.
Road Master
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 850
Likes: 0
RE: TC88 performance
I have an S&S 510 gear driven cam and stage 1 and I love it!
How much was the head work. From what I have read, air flow is the ticket - although the no substitute for cubic inches folks would disagree I'm sure
How much was the head work. From what I have read, air flow is the ticket - although the no substitute for cubic inches folks would disagree I'm sure