Hi, what else should I change while replacing the satin lower fork for chrome ones on my 2012 Softail Deluxe. Do I need new seals,etc. Also, I ordered progressive front lowering springs. Do they come with gasket, seals, etc? The bike has only 600 miles. Should I change the fork oil to a better brand? Thanks

 

If your bike is still under the factory warranty and the front forks have some small pits in them (1 or 2 pits are enough!), have the dealer install the chrome front forks with all the fixin's for around $200. A lot of people in Central FL have it done at the 1K or 5K check-up, so obviously, the original forks don't have to be a mess to qualify for this warranty work.

 

new seals (they're like $10 each though), new crush washers for the drain plug, and nothing wrong with HD Type-E fork oil. 16.4 ounces per fork i think..maybe it's 13.2..i dont remember.

 

Thank you for the info. I will be changing the oil, seals and crush washer.

 

I watched this prior to doing mine a few weeks ago on my deluxe. And a Motion Pro Fork Nut Socket 08-0139 probably wouldn't hurt either. Amazon has em cheap. It's an item you probably will not use again but keeps your fork nuts from getting marred. You will probably hear this a lot if you haven't already, get the service manual from your dealer. I don't know your wrenching ability, but the manual is quite handy. Best of luck!

 

Thanks for posting that vid. I'm deciding what I want to do with my folk change, the vid lets me what I'm getting into.

 

I used the HD chrome front kit and it had everything I needed. A formidable diy project which I was wise to do over the winter. I did have a service manual but I would've been lost without the internet.

I used the oem HD fork oil. As I recall the only special tool I needed was a long 6mm allen for the bottom screw. I don't remember why but I didn't use an air impact to remove it as shown by one vid.

And I had to build a wood jig to compress the tubes to get the screw back in. But I was working by myself. If you have some help the jig may not be necessary. Or maybe there's some other way to do it that I wasn't aware of .

 

When I did mine I probably over did it, but most parts are only a few bucks.

- Slider Tube cap oil seal (2)
- Fork tube plug o-ring (2)
- Drain Screw (2)
- Drain Screw crush washer (2)
- Oil seal retaining Clip (2)
- Damper screw (2)
- Damper screw crush washer (2)
- Upper slider tube bushing (2)
- Seal spacer (2)
- Slider oil seal (2)
- Lower slider bushing (2)
- Fork oil measured

Goodluck

 

Search YouTube. There are better videos... Less talking and actually showing you....

It's not really hard at all. The only bad thing that can happen is the 6mm bolt head gets stripped while attempting to loosen it.... it doesn't have a very deep socket..

Mike
NY

 

A seal tool also helps but some make one out of an exhaust pipe or pvc. I ended up buying a seal tool on e-bay for $30.00 now I'll always have it.........