Will a 2007 and up motor fit in a 2003 frame?
#11
05-21-2012, 10:40 PM
When the day comes that my engine gets tired I will rebuild bigger and better. An engine swap would be possible, but a PITA.
Just because the new larger motor is EFI, can't you just use the original carbed intake? I don't think the engine knows how it gets it's air fule mixture, just as long it gets it.
Just because the new larger motor is EFI, can't you just use the original carbed intake? I don't think the engine knows how it gets it's air fule mixture, just as long it gets it.
#12
10-14-2017, 11:21 PM
#13
10-14-2017, 11:27 PM
Banned
Been thinking about upgrading the motor, rather than rebuld or put a bore kit on, I was thinking of getting a newer, larger displacement motor. Will a 2007 and up B motor fit in the 2003 frame? Any thought?
If I go down the path of a bore kit, then I need to do the cams, then headwork, bigger carb, better ignition, upgrade the clutch and tranny, etc.
If I go down the path of a bore kit, then I need to do the cams, then headwork, bigger carb, better ignition, upgrade the clutch and tranny, etc.
They've fixed all the more serious Twinky issues .
Last edited by badcooky; 10-14-2017 at 11:29 PM.
#16
10-14-2017, 11:40 PM
Banned
Bottom end is rip the jugs off and check , first sign sometimes can be the wrist pin circlip being expelled into the bore it might tink tink chucking it out the motor then it'll sag out for no apparent reason come good then sag out sorta thing.
#17
10-14-2017, 11:49 PM
#20
10-15-2017, 12:02 AM
Banned
The tinkly thing you will only hear once as the circlip USUALLY exits through the top end unless they both go out !
It's usually the wrist pin hammering it out OR it's been fitted incorrectly. If the big end is going yea some torque is applied to those parts not always bit sometimes .
The sag is your suddenly down on power , maybe after a tink tink noise or just before it if the circlip is leaving the building(top end) then it can go away or comes and goes ,it's usually the wrist pin up against the bore.
The big end can get jarred with a little too much advance in the ignition cause there's a point at around 30 degrees from the top of the ignition stroke where crank bearings of the back pot rod relative to barrel is going backwards relative to the crank if the timing is at the same point it can and will cause catastrophic damage. That's the simplest I can explain it, it's not exactly technically correct but it's what happens.
Cheers HTH.
It's usually the wrist pin hammering it out OR it's been fitted incorrectly. If the big end is going yea some torque is applied to those parts not always bit sometimes .
The sag is your suddenly down on power , maybe after a tink tink noise or just before it if the circlip is leaving the building(top end) then it can go away or comes and goes ,it's usually the wrist pin up against the bore.
The big end can get jarred with a little too much advance in the ignition cause there's a point at around 30 degrees from the top of the ignition stroke where crank bearings of the back pot rod relative to barrel is going backwards relative to the crank if the timing is at the same point it can and will cause catastrophic damage. That's the simplest I can explain it, it's not exactly technically correct but it's what happens.
Cheers HTH.
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Izzy73 (10-15-2017)