I wanted to write this for anyone who, like me, is used to having professionals perform routine service on their vehicles, especially their motorcycles. I'm not a mechanic, nor do I pretend to even know what I'm talking about. However, I set a goal this weekend of changing my own rear brake pads on my 2012 FLSTFB Fat Boy Lo. I'm rather neurotic about instructions, proper tooling, etc. for any work where I'm out of my comfort zone, so included for your reading pleasure is a rather detailed list of parts, tools and notes.


I hope you can benefit from my learning and that my contribution here will help others, just as the previous contributions helped me get this job done.

Of particular note, I spent more time researching and driving around - probably close to 2 hours - searching for the proper socket to remove the pad pin than the 20 minutes I spent on the actual job itself.

So without further ado …

• Part # / Manufacturer / Item / Cost / Notes
• 42298-08 / H-D / BRAKE PAD SET REAR / $49.95
• 99953-99A / H-D DOT 4 BREAK FLUID / $7.95 / Could buy at an auto supply store for about 1/2 the price
• 99482-12A / H-D / SOFTAIL MODELS 2012 H-D SERVICE MANUAL / $60.00
• GENERIC / 3" C-CLAMP/$6.99
• GENERIC / ROLL OF SHOP TOWELS/$2.49
• 50612 / CRAFTSMAN/1/4-IN. DRIVE 1/4-IN. 12PT SOCKET/$3.79/To remove/install pad pin; found at Sears
• 44807 / CRAFTSMAN / 1/4-IN. RATCHET / To remove/install pad pin
• 42665 / CRAFTSMAN / 3/8-IN. DRIVE T-40 TORX SOCKET / $6.49 / To remove/install mounting bolt & slider pin
• 44808 / CRAFTSMAN / 3/8-IN. RATCHET / $17.99 / To remove/install mounting bolt & slider pin
• #2 PHILIPS SCREWDRIVER / To remove/install rear master cylinder cover
• Some soft cloth towels to protect pipes, swing arm, etc. while working

Instructions for replacing the brake pads are found on pages 1-37 to 1-40 of the Service Manual

Rear brake caliper diagram and assembly/disassembly instructions are found on pages 2-50 to 2-54; you do not need to disassemble the rear brake caliper to replace the brake pads. I used the diagrams and instructions for disassembly and assembly to become more familiar with the rear caliper in general.

I'd like to point out that the images of the slider pin and the mounting bolt shown in figure 2-63 on page 2-51 of my service manual are NOT the same as what's actually on the bike. In my service manual, these are 12 point bolts similar to the pad pin. On my actual bike, these are T-40 torx bolts.

I'd also like to point out that my bike has Vance & Hines Big Radius 2-into-2s that make accessing the rear caliper even easier that the stock exhaust configuration. I can't fathom doing the rear brake pads without having to first remove the stock mufflers.

And key to the entire job was locating a 1/4" drive 1/4" 12 point socket that is used to remove and reinstall the pad pin. Don't mess around. Go to Sears and pick up Craftsman part #50612. You'll save yourself a ton of time and searching.

As for the job itself, you can follow the instructions step-by-step from the service manual for replacing the rear brake pads and literally be done in about 20 minutes.

• Place a towel or some other drape over your pipes and secure it, possibly with a large cable tie, to prevent tools or any parts from damaging their finish

• Place a town or some other drape over the lower portion of your swing arm, again to prevent tools or any parts from damaging its finish

• Use some disposable shop towels to hold the parts while you're working. One shop towel in the rear to hold the old and new pads, the pad pin, the mounting bolt and slider pin. Another shop towel up front to place the master cylinder cap and wipe up any brake fluid that may drip.

• To avoid scratching the upper swing arm, my dealer's service department suggested removing the mounting bolt and slider pin first, allowing you to remove the caliper and then remove the pad pin. However, I found that being careful with the 1/4" 12 point socket provided just enough clearance under the swing arm to loosen the pad pin just as stated in the service manual.

• Just as the service manual states, use the old brake pad and a C-clamp to get the pistons to retract into the caliper, first retracting one piston partially, then the other, etc., until they both are fully retracted. Here, my suggestion is to go very slowly and watch the fluid level rise in your master cylinder as the pistons retract. You want to go slow to ensure you don't forcefully cause brake fluid to be expelled from the master cylinder.

Overall, there were only three places where I found the job to be a little tricky:

• Figure 1-31 on page 1-38 and figure 1-33 on page 1-39 shows the torque clip and how the tab on the outer brake pad fits into the slot made at the torque clip. It took me a bit to figure out what was going on here. You'll find the torque clip on the caliper mount that is still mounted to the bike and NOT on the caliper itself. Just call me ignorant, as this took me a minute or two to figure out.

• Getting the innermost brake pad to stay seated in the anti-rattle spring tabs while remounting the caliper was probably the most frustrating part of this entire process (I'd love to hear advice on how to make this easier), which leads me to the second most frustrating part …

• Getting the caliper to fit back under the swing arm and over the disc while observing #2 above was enough to make me question the wisdom of the entire process. However, sticking with it took no more than a minute or two to get it all in place and the satisfaction reward was high.

Finally, after reattaching the caliper, securing the mounting bolt, the slider pin and the pad pin, I noticed that the caliper had a fair amount of play pivoting around the slider pin. I observed the behavior of the rear caliper on my buddy's Dyna and noticed that it had a little play but not nearly as much as my freshly reattached caliper. However, step 14 - right after you reattach the caliper - is to pump the brake pedal to bring the pistons out until the brake pad contacts the rotor. Sure enough, the caliper tightened right up and the significant amount of play was removed.


And there you have it. A fully set of replaced rear brake pads on a 2012 FLSTFB Fat Boy Lo. It went so well that I'm inspired to go get the DVDs from FixMyHog.com and do my oil and replace my oil filter with a reusable unit next!

 

I have plenty of tools I just can't bend over very long after shattering a vertebrae any more.

I just pay my Indy the $15 he charges per wheel for doing the brakes when he changes my tires.

Also next time U do brakes check out the Lyndall brand pads. same price as HD's, very, very little dust, and as good or better than HD's for stopping and fading plus the last longer.


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KevinHa Thanks for your write up.

While cleaning, I notice I had some play in my rear caliper, I loosen and retorque them to spec. I was going crazy wondering why I had some play in the caliper mounting bolts. I thought something was wrong, but after seeing your post, I'm starting to feel better knowing it normal.

 

KevinHa, thanks also for the write-up. I have a couple questions. First, why did you need a 1/4" socket for the slider pin, wouldn't a 3/8" socket work? Second, how many miles have you drivin on your bike to have to replace the pads in a year?

 

Changing pads is a breeze, front or rear. Lyndalls are the cats *** too. I bought 4 sets last time I changed mine (1 set per axle) and the way these are wearing I have pads for life! LOL

 

Same question here man...........I thought I rode a lot. That or you wanted a different type of brake?

 

Socket sizes? Man, I don't have them memorized, but I know its one damned small one and its a 12 point.....lol.

But the question is a good one. Why the need for new pads on a '12? Seems my first set (oem's) lasted for 20k miles, maybe more. And that was the front. The rears lasted another season.

 

6mm 12 point for the slider pin

 

Good write up. Also, clean pistons with brake clean. Extend one side at a time, spray and wipe. HD calipers do not have dust boots and the brake dust can cause the piston(s) to bind and not work properly.