2006 Softail Springer Classic Project/Build
Thread Starter
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Grand HDF Member
Joined: Jun 2009
Posts: 4,010
Likes: 1,240
From: On the Front Range, CO
Red beard, thanks for taking the time to document this, it gives us ideas on how to spend our money! Your build looks great.
In particular, I like the braided cable sleeves,, I think I will follow suit when I install apes on my 03 Heritage Springer.
I also like the turn signal relocation brackets and the visor headlight trim. Would you mind letting me know where you got those? I searched and came up empty..only brackets I could find said they wouldn't work with a windshield and I use a windshield.
Thanks in advance.
In particular, I like the braided cable sleeves,, I think I will follow suit when I install apes on my 03 Heritage Springer.
I also like the turn signal relocation brackets and the visor headlight trim. Would you mind letting me know where you got those? I searched and came up empty..only brackets I could find said they wouldn't work with a windshield and I use a windshield.
Thanks in advance.
The brackets for the turn signals are now made by Legends Motorcycles, out of Utah. I have the site bookmarked because it took me a while to track them down a couple years back.
http://www.legendsmotorcycles.com/on...&category_id=2
As I recall, these used to be made by a guy named Bubba on the Heritage Springer forum for the members. When I had my 03 HS, he was no longer making them, but Legends had picked up the idea and ran with it.
I may be wrong about all that, but I do remember they used to be called Bubba's turn signal brackets. If Hspring03 reads this, I'm sure he can set me straight!
They're chromed billet aluminum. And yes, they're very spendy for two brackets, but the quality is top notch. Having bought two sets now over the past couple years, I highly recommend them. You also won't have any trouble using a windshield with these.
I don't like the way the turn signal housings sit against the bracket, so I use a small chrome spacer from Ace Hardware, which alleviates any contact. I think it was either 1/4" or 3/8" tall. The third picture in post #5 shows the spacer between the turn signal housing and the bracket pretty well. You'll also need bolts to mount the turn signals to the brackets too, since you can't reuse the original hardware from the controls mounting location.
For those, I used a chrome button head Allen bolt. The proper size is a 5/16-24 (fine thread) by 1" long. Ace Hardware should have those too.
Last edited by Redbeard719; May 4, 2014 at 10:19 AM.
Stellar HDF Member
Joined: Jan 2013
Posts: 2,721
Likes: 103
From: St. Louis, MO
Redbeard, thanks again for the detailed response. Wow, $120 is pretty pricey for a couple of brackets indeed....but they do look good. I guess there isn't much call for these and there is a fair amount of machine time on them due to the drop.
I have to replace my tank and plan to do apes at the same time (also appreciate your tips on tank removal as I made a mess last time and wish to avoid spilling gas everywhere this time).
While I have your attention, please indulge me with another question. How did you remove the fuel injection bung fitting from the tank? Did you just cut the line to the fuel pump, with plans to replace the line later?
I have to replace my tank and plan to do apes at the same time (also appreciate your tips on tank removal as I made a mess last time and wish to avoid spilling gas everywhere this time).
While I have your attention, please indulge me with another question. How did you remove the fuel injection bung fitting from the tank? Did you just cut the line to the fuel pump, with plans to replace the line later?
Thread Starter
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Grand HDF Member
Joined: Jun 2009
Posts: 4,010
Likes: 1,240
From: On the Front Range, CO
Redbeard, thanks again for the detailed response. Wow, $120 is pretty pricey for a couple of brackets indeed....but they do look good. I guess there isn't much call for these and there is a fair amount of machine time on them due to the drop.
I have to replace my tank and plan to do apes at the same time (also appreciate your tips on tank removal as I made a mess last time and wish to avoid spilling gas everywhere this time).
While I have your attention, please indulge me with another question. How did you remove the fuel injection bung fitting from the tank? Did you just cut the line to the fuel pump, with plans to replace the line later?
I have to replace my tank and plan to do apes at the same time (also appreciate your tips on tank removal as I made a mess last time and wish to avoid spilling gas everywhere this time).
While I have your attention, please indulge me with another question. How did you remove the fuel injection bung fitting from the tank? Did you just cut the line to the fuel pump, with plans to replace the line later?
You'll want to remove the fuel pump assembly from the tank first. Once the top cover is off, the top plate has to pivot on a hinge on the left side, which is where the fuel filter/pickup is located and attached to the top plate. The float is there as well. You won't be able to fully remove it until you remove the line going from the fuel pump to the fuel injection bung.
If I remember right, these lines are attached with the pinch style clamps that are single use. I just used a pair of needle nose pliers to dismantle the clamps, and the lines pop right off.
Once all is disconnected, the fuel injection bung is screwed into the tank. I forget the size of the wrench, but it's big. Not a lot of torque though, so you'll be ok getting that removed.
When you reassemble, invest in 10 new self sealing screws and a new top plate gasket. It's cheap insurance to not have to do it all a second time.
Also, the stock fuel lines inside the tank are a known issue as well. They are too long, and actually can rub on the inside tank walls, and eventually develop pin holes. Then when the pin holes are no longer submersed in fuel, after say the first half tank of gas is used, you'll start to notice stuttering and poor running caused by fuel delivery issues.
If you're already this far into the tank, you can find submersible fuel lines made by Gates. I bought two from Amazon, I think they're 3/8" lines, along with the self tightening spring clamps to hold them on.
I don't have the thread handy, but I'm sure you'll find it on a search. If not, I have it bookmarked on my computer and can send it to you later. It details the issue further and makes more sense of it.
The Gates lines are thick rubber and a bit shorter too which should keep them from rubbing too.
Not trying to worry you, just hoping to help you avoid doing the same work twice!
Last edited by Redbeard719; May 5, 2014 at 10:45 AM.
Stellar HDF Member
Joined: Jan 2013
Posts: 2,721
Likes: 103
From: St. Louis, MO
Redbeard I hate to keep asking you questions in your thread and I'll stop if you like, but I'm coming up empty in my search for the in tank fuel line. Did you just use regular fuel line from an auto parts store and regular worm gear clamps?
I did purchase the expensive signal relocation brackets - there are HD branded brackets that use Road King style turn signals, but looking at them next to each other, I think they are going to hit my windshield lowers and I need those lowers for comfort. And the price isn't much cheaper for the RK style setup.
Thanks again.
I did purchase the expensive signal relocation brackets - there are HD branded brackets that use Road King style turn signals, but looking at them next to each other, I think they are going to hit my windshield lowers and I need those lowers for comfort. And the price isn't much cheaper for the RK style setup.
Thanks again.
Elite HDF Member
Joined: Jul 2007
Posts: 3,891
Likes: 54
From: Mansfield, MA
I may be wrong about all that, but I do remember they used to be called Bubba's turn signal brackets. If Hspring03 reads this, I'm sure he can set me straight!
They're chromed billet aluminum. And yes, they're very spendy for two brackets, but the quality is top notch. Having bought two sets now over the past couple years, I highly recommend them. You also won't have any trouble using a windshield with these.
.
Bubba also had the slickest saddlebag quick release system out there.
Thread Starter
|
Grand HDF Member
Joined: Jun 2009
Posts: 4,010
Likes: 1,240
From: On the Front Range, CO
Redbeard I hate to keep asking you questions in your thread and I'll stop if you like, but I'm coming up empty in my search for the in tank fuel line. Did you just use regular fuel line from an auto parts store and regular worm gear clamps?
I did purchase the expensive signal relocation brackets - there are HD branded brackets that use Road King style turn signals, but looking at them next to each other, I think they are going to hit my windshield lowers and I need those lowers for comfort. And the price isn't much cheaper for the RK style setup.
Thanks again.
I did purchase the expensive signal relocation brackets - there are HD branded brackets that use Road King style turn signals, but looking at them next to each other, I think they are going to hit my windshield lowers and I need those lowers for comfort. And the price isn't much cheaper for the RK style setup.
Thanks again.
No problem Joe, I don't mind at all.
The fuel lines are here, and you'll need two pieces:
This is the thread I was referencing earlier. It's from the Dyna section, but applies to Softails too.
https://www.hdforums.com/forum/dyna-...fuel-line.html
See the pictures in post #8. Those are the clamps that I'm going to be using, which should be self tightening. I have used worm drive clamps before with no issue as well. The fuel fittings have a barb on the end, so as long as you're tight enough to begin, you should be fine.
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