Ok so, i have studied a bit, looked up some videos, and whatnot, i basically want to make sure im on the right track on doing this because i reaaaaaaly dont wanna screw anything up.

So in order to remove the rear wheel (2008 Night Train)
1- Lift wheel off ground with jack
2- Loosen Axle adjusters (both sides of bike)
3- Hold Axle with cresent wrench, ratchet off the axle nut
4- Remove nut/washer
5- Pull axle from swingarm
6- Loosen/remove caliper from rotor (remember to catch the caliper spacers) move out of the way
7- Remove Caliper Bracket
8- Remove Pulley


Installing The wheel back onto bike
1- Slide Pulley belt into place
2- Aligned spacers Push axle back into place
3- Install caliper bracker and spacers
4- Replace lock washer, and axle nut back on
5- Install caliper/spacers (blue thread locker???)
6- Adjust axle adjusters (this is the part that gets confusing)
7- Make sure axle and swingarm are parallel
8- Tighten Axle Nut
9- Cinch down the adjusters



Am i missing anything? Can anyone clarify the whole... axle parallel swingarm thing? And does anyone here use threadlocker on caliper bolts that hold it to the rotor?

 

Do you have a shop manual? Your rundown seems right but you need torque values and info on proper belt adjustments, etc.

 

Looks about right.

Just make sure you place your spacers and what not so you know what order they came off in.

 

I would remove the caliper and hang it out of the way before removing the axle. No sense in having it hanging things up if the wheel happens to move on you when you pull the axle out.

Use blue thread locker on the caliper bolts and plenty of anti seize on the slider pin! Make sure you keep track of the spacers and how they go. If I'm not mistaken, it's not just which spacer goes on which side, but what side of the spacer faces inboard (toward the wheel hub). At least that was the case with mine.

I think the axle parallel to the swingarm probably just refers to making sure that the rear wheel is properly aligned. It just a poorly worded phrase so we won't bother trying to define it.

The alignment has two parts. The first is making sure that the adjusters are set right in order to give you the correct belt tension on your pully. Once you have that determined you have to make sure that both adjusters are set right so that the wheel is properly aligned. This is usually done by measuring the distance from the center of the axle to the center of the swingarm pivot bolt and trying to get that distance as close as possible on both sides. There are alignment tools out there on the market that help you with this measurement. I used a rod a passed it through the center of my axle and then tied a string to it with a loop on one end that I placed over the swingarm bolt head. I started on the left side since I needed to set the adjuster to give me the right tension on the pully. Them I marked the string with a sharpie marker and moved it to the right side and set the adjuster on that side till the axle lined up with the mark. I checked both sides a second time just to make sure that both one side didn't go out of alignment while I adjusted the other side. Once I was confident that the axle and wheel were pretty straight I tightened the axle down to spec.

It's really not to hard to align the wheel but it's very important to get it ride in order to make sure it runs good and wears even. A couple of tricks to help is to loosen the axle adjusters by the same amount of turns. In other words if you loosen the left by 2 turns, then loosen the right by 2 turns and then when you tighten them back by that same amount of turns. You can also count the threads that are exposed before you loosen them and then count the threads after you loosen them. This doesn't guarantee that just reversing how much you loosen the adjusters will automatically put you back in the proper alignment but it should get you pretty damn close if your wheel was properly aligned in the first place.