HD 48, where to start with customization, and what?
#11
Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: Opposite Side of the Planet
Posts: 778
Likes: 0
Received 4 Likes
on
4 Posts
^^^ THIS ^^^
Ride your 48 bone stock for at least 6 months and get used to it's characteristics. In the interim, you'll have time to locate, buy, and pour through an HD Service Manual for it, becoming learned in the ways of routine maintenance, repair, and where everything is and what it does. This initial time off from modding will also allow you to become further edjumicated on what's out there in the way of aftermarket exhaust components/systems, intakes, bars, seats, grips, tires, LED lighting, etc., so when the time DOES come for your mods, you'll be able to make an informed decision on what to buy. All this familiarity prior to spending will not only give you the smarts, but will save you GOBS of money too.
I say the above because sooooooo many people, after getting their nice new bike, have been too quick to jump onto the "mod train" without a whole lot of forethought into each item. And when you don't give things the proper thought before purchasing, i.e., making the infamous "impulse buy", you end up making "mistakes" - which usually means you end up "not really" liking it, and losing money selling them for a loss.
I'll admit it's hard to resist the mod temptation, especially when you come here and see what Joe Blow did to his bike. But in reality, the idea of "custom" modding is not to get what everybody else has [the classic example of this would be V&H Short Shots], but rather making your ride into an individual expression of what YOU like. If you hang every possible Wille G. Skull aftermarket trinket on your bike what have you really done? You've lost your imagination and filled the coffers at your local stealership that's what!
So definately let the bike sit as it is for a while. Your tastes may indeed change between now and 6 months time, and new products come out all the time, so have some patience for all the "right stuff" - for all the right reasons!
Regards,
=8^)
Ride your 48 bone stock for at least 6 months and get used to it's characteristics. In the interim, you'll have time to locate, buy, and pour through an HD Service Manual for it, becoming learned in the ways of routine maintenance, repair, and where everything is and what it does. This initial time off from modding will also allow you to become further edjumicated on what's out there in the way of aftermarket exhaust components/systems, intakes, bars, seats, grips, tires, LED lighting, etc., so when the time DOES come for your mods, you'll be able to make an informed decision on what to buy. All this familiarity prior to spending will not only give you the smarts, but will save you GOBS of money too.
I say the above because sooooooo many people, after getting their nice new bike, have been too quick to jump onto the "mod train" without a whole lot of forethought into each item. And when you don't give things the proper thought before purchasing, i.e., making the infamous "impulse buy", you end up making "mistakes" - which usually means you end up "not really" liking it, and losing money selling them for a loss.
I'll admit it's hard to resist the mod temptation, especially when you come here and see what Joe Blow did to his bike. But in reality, the idea of "custom" modding is not to get what everybody else has [the classic example of this would be V&H Short Shots], but rather making your ride into an individual expression of what YOU like. If you hang every possible Wille G. Skull aftermarket trinket on your bike what have you really done? You've lost your imagination and filled the coffers at your local stealership that's what!
So definately let the bike sit as it is for a while. Your tastes may indeed change between now and 6 months time, and new products come out all the time, so have some patience for all the "right stuff" - for all the right reasons!
Regards,
=8^)
1000% this! And the MOST IMPORTANT mod is getting the Factory Service Manual if you are going to touch your bike.
One word of caution, I don't torque screws. Lots of people over torque them (following the factory torque settings) and cause sometime expensive problems which the dealer will not cover under warranty (you broke it). Hand tight with just a little more turn is good enough. If you are worried about the screw coming out, use blue locktite. Torque nuts and bolts though, not the allen or torx head screws (on the engine).
Of note, I put on the rear fender edge led lights. Looks really good, stands out in the dark (My commute to work in the morning is in the dark). VERY easy to do yourself. Cleaning the inside of the rear fender is very important as people have noted. I did not have to jack up the bike or remove anything to do the job (my hands were able to get between the tire and fender with no issue).
#12
Enjoy your 48, I love mine.
I went with the Vance&Hines Short Shots, Daytona Tuner and S&S intake the combo works great for me.
For comfort I bought Air Shocks from a Touring Bike and the Harley Spring Solo Seat. I am in the process of installing Progressive Fork Springs.
You might want to check out "Wachukos" thread in the Forums section,
he did an Amazing job on his 48, He is my Hero. You should do a search on this Forum other members have also done great Mods on their 48s.
Barrier
I went with the Vance&Hines Short Shots, Daytona Tuner and S&S intake the combo works great for me.
For comfort I bought Air Shocks from a Touring Bike and the Harley Spring Solo Seat. I am in the process of installing Progressive Fork Springs.
You might want to check out "Wachukos" thread in the Forums section,
he did an Amazing job on his 48, He is my Hero. You should do a search on this Forum other members have also done great Mods on their 48s.
Barrier
#13
#14
#15
Awesome input.
Question: I'm pretty good at Googling stuff, but having a tough time finding service manuals, at least the HD branded ones. Is that something specific I can obtain from a dealer without a call ahead and they'll have it in stock? Or does it need to be HD brand or not?
Question: I'm pretty good at Googling stuff, but having a tough time finding service manuals, at least the HD branded ones. Is that something specific I can obtain from a dealer without a call ahead and they'll have it in stock? Or does it need to be HD brand or not?
On the note of mods, like I said waiting and riding is the best thing. The first thing I changed were the pipes. After two rides I knew it didn't sound like a bike should. Everything else changed after I had put about 8k on the bike. Now at 13k I've got 91hp monster, and she's just the way I like her
#16
Again, thanks to everyone with the helpful input.
Upon getting the bike, I promptly added the fender edge light and engine guard. Nothing like adding some safety measures to start.
After riding the bike a bit more, I can already tell I'd like to have my feet closer to the ground when stopped. Feels like I'm nearly standing up with my legs almost completely extended. Doesn't allow much forgiveness. Looked into lower seats, but they seem to also bring you closer to the handlebars. I'm comfortable with that distance.
I guess I'm torn between trying to find a lowered seat that keeps the shoulder/handlebar distance nearly the same or dropping the suspension some (either a lowering block, which I'm not inclined to do or shorter suspension.) The stock suspension has already been dialed to 1 above the smallest setting so there isn't much wiggle room there.
Upon getting the bike, I promptly added the fender edge light and engine guard. Nothing like adding some safety measures to start.
After riding the bike a bit more, I can already tell I'd like to have my feet closer to the ground when stopped. Feels like I'm nearly standing up with my legs almost completely extended. Doesn't allow much forgiveness. Looked into lower seats, but they seem to also bring you closer to the handlebars. I'm comfortable with that distance.
I guess I'm torn between trying to find a lowered seat that keeps the shoulder/handlebar distance nearly the same or dropping the suspension some (either a lowering block, which I'm not inclined to do or shorter suspension.) The stock suspension has already been dialed to 1 above the smallest setting so there isn't much wiggle room there.
#17
After riding the bike a bit more, I can already tell I'd like to have my feet closer to the ground when stopped. Feels like I'm nearly standing up with my legs almost completely extended. Doesn't allow much forgiveness. Looked into lower seats, but they seem to also bring you closer to the handlebars. I'm comfortable with that distance.
The following users liked this post:
RRider (06-26-2018)
#18
I picked up my 2014 Sportster 48 last month as well. I have just about 350 miles on it so far and I too live in New England. The first thing I replaced (modded) was the seat. That stock PoS seat had to go. I didn't realize how bad it was on the test ride, but after picking up the bike from the dealer and riding it home (30+ miles), I knew I had to get rid of it quickly. The very next day I had a Mustang FastBack seat on order.
After riding around for a few weeks, I realized I didn't like the forward controls that came with the bike. I have a cousin with a Iron 883 and Mid controls, but those mid controls are a little too far back for my taste. I noticed the Further Forward Mid controls on Harley's site for the 2014 48. I called the local shop to see if they had a black set in stock, and sure enough they did. They offered me a 20% discount if I were to buy that weekend, and pulled the trigger on them that very day.
So now, I have a great seat and the foot controls I want. I've been riding around for the past few weeks with these two new changes and I'm starting to think the stock exhaust on the bike maybe a little to tame. It's great and all, but it just needs some character. But with winter right around the corner, it doesn't make sense for me to buy anything right now other than a batter tender.
Next week, I plan to get some more miles on the bike, get it serviced (oil and drive train fluid replaced) put it on the battery tender and call it quits for the winter.
Come very early spring the plan it to get the Stage 1 performance upgrade. That is the RSD Slant Exhaust (Carbon Ops), RSD Slant Intake (Carbon Ops) and the FuelMoto Power Commander V with their base map.
Aside from those heavy hitters, I don't think I'll mess with much else. Maybe the push-pop cash cap from Harley in black and maybe a better LED headlight, but that will be well into next summer.
After riding around for a few weeks, I realized I didn't like the forward controls that came with the bike. I have a cousin with a Iron 883 and Mid controls, but those mid controls are a little too far back for my taste. I noticed the Further Forward Mid controls on Harley's site for the 2014 48. I called the local shop to see if they had a black set in stock, and sure enough they did. They offered me a 20% discount if I were to buy that weekend, and pulled the trigger on them that very day.
So now, I have a great seat and the foot controls I want. I've been riding around for the past few weeks with these two new changes and I'm starting to think the stock exhaust on the bike maybe a little to tame. It's great and all, but it just needs some character. But with winter right around the corner, it doesn't make sense for me to buy anything right now other than a batter tender.
Next week, I plan to get some more miles on the bike, get it serviced (oil and drive train fluid replaced) put it on the battery tender and call it quits for the winter.
Come very early spring the plan it to get the Stage 1 performance upgrade. That is the RSD Slant Exhaust (Carbon Ops), RSD Slant Intake (Carbon Ops) and the FuelMoto Power Commander V with their base map.
Aside from those heavy hitters, I don't think I'll mess with much else. Maybe the push-pop cash cap from Harley in black and maybe a better LED headlight, but that will be well into next summer.
Last edited by Boston1200X; 11-07-2014 at 01:15 PM.
#19
As others have said, it is always best to ride your bike and figure out what modifications you need to do to make it more comfortable for you.
After the comfort mods are done, then people usually go to performance. When it comes to Air Cleaners, only a few companies are making true performance air cleaners.
DK Custom Products
NRHS
and Hammer
I don't know of any others.
Pushing blow-by back into the air cleaner is counter productive to performance. What comes out of the breathers is primarily exhaust and oil.
It is also hot. Engines perform better with cool dry air and gas...not hot oily air and gas.
Additionally the exhaust gas has a lower oxygen content, displacing oxygen on each combustion stroke. Another performance robber.
Oil will build up carbon deposits on the pistons, leading to pinging/tuning problems down the road.
It's just a bad idea...the only upside is you make the EPA happy.
We offer a wide variety of different products for Sportsters. You can see what all we have to offer on our website at this LINK.
After the comfort mods are done, then people usually go to performance. When it comes to Air Cleaners, only a few companies are making true performance air cleaners.
DK Custom Products
NRHS
and Hammer
I don't know of any others.
Pushing blow-by back into the air cleaner is counter productive to performance. What comes out of the breathers is primarily exhaust and oil.
It is also hot. Engines perform better with cool dry air and gas...not hot oily air and gas.
Additionally the exhaust gas has a lower oxygen content, displacing oxygen on each combustion stroke. Another performance robber.
Oil will build up carbon deposits on the pistons, leading to pinging/tuning problems down the road.
It's just a bad idea...the only upside is you make the EPA happy.
We offer a wide variety of different products for Sportsters. You can see what all we have to offer on our website at this LINK.
__________________
www.DKCustom.com
662-252-8828 Voice
662-420-4891 Text & Voice
Support@DKCustomProducts.com
www.DKCustom.com
662-252-8828 Voice
662-420-4891 Text & Voice
Support@DKCustomProducts.com
#20