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Installing Dynatek 2000i module to 1998 Sporster XLH 883

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Old 01-20-2016, 11:48 AM
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Default Installing Dynatek 2000i module to 1998 Sporster XLH 883

Hello,

I am trying to setup the Dyna 2ki using the oem wiring harness. I would like to know if someone here knows the wire matching from the Dyna module to the oem harness.

Coil is the original dual fire. Front cilinder wire is pink/rear cilinder wire is the white with black line

Original harness colors:
White with Black line
Violet with white line
Black
Green
Pink

2KI Module colors:
Blue
Violet
Pink
Green
White

Thanks for the help!
 
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Old 01-20-2016, 06:46 PM
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A few questions... Do you have a tach on your bike? Do you have the 2000i instructions? They are pretty straight forward. But if you have a tach, there are a few cautions to be aware of. The instructions pretty much lay everything out very well. Just need to follow them tooth and nail. I just upgraded my ole HI-4N to the 2000i on my ole '96. But I went single fire, so my wiring is a bit different than yours. Dual fire is fairly easy to wire. If you don't have a tachometer on your bike, then you only have three wires to worry about on the 2000i, the white, pink, and violet. The blue and green will be tucked away and stowed for future use.

Let me know man, and we can go from here.
 
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Old 01-20-2016, 07:02 PM
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Thank you for replying! Yes, the bike has a tachometer. I followed the instructions but got no spark. I would like to use the original harness instead of running a new wiring. So basically I need to match the 2ki wires with the oem harness.
 
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Old 01-20-2016, 08:22 PM
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Originally Posted by XxPeChOxX
Thank you for replying! Yes, the bike has a tachometer. I followed the instructions but got no spark. I would like to use the original harness instead of running a new wiring. So basically I need to match the 2ki wires with the oem harness.
Great then! This should be no problem assuming you are dual fire "single" coil. You will want to make sure that W/B wire on the coil has power with the key on, AND the run switch on. This is where you will attach the white wire from the 2000i. Remove the pink wire from the other side of the coil and attach it with the terminals they supplied to the green wire from the 2000i. Tuck this wire away. The green wire from the 2000i is for your tach only. It DOES NOT go to the coil anymore.

Attach the pink wire from the 2000i to the coil itself where the old pink wire was attached.

Attach the violet wire from your 2000i to the violet/white wire. This V/W wire goes to the VOES. Don't fool with the black wire you mentioned on your bike. If this is not hooked up correctly, it won't prevent spark, it will prevent advance.

The blue wire left over from your 2000i, you will not cut though tempted, you will tuck it away snuggly somewhere just in case you ever want to go single fire. Single fire is great. It will get you home where as dual fire won't.

I am assuming you have done all this but I wanted to lay it out. If still no spark after verifying with a multi-meter that you have power at your coil, it is likely that you need to check your initial static timing. Make sure you are static timing on the compression stroke on your front cylinder. You may be 180 out.

Hope this helps my friend!
 
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Old 01-30-2016, 03:32 PM
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Hey Lonnie Mac,

Thank you for the information above! Helped a lot.

I followed your steps and connected the wires as supposed, however I have a couple of questions. Didnt understand what to do with the black wire for the original harness, should it stay disconnected? Or should I used it as ground?

I am getting spark but the bike is not turning on, I guess this has something to do with the VOES but not sure. The voes light in the module just blinks when I change the start swith, the status light is off.

Should any of those lights be on always?

Appreciate the help!
 
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Old 01-30-2016, 08:05 PM
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It would be great if you can take a few photos of your work so far. Yes, the black wire was ground, but you would have connected the violet wire to the black wire that the old violet wire was attached too, and again, the other black wire coming from the VOES is ground.

The VOES led (green) comes on when the VOES is grounded, when in normal operation it is on a lot when the engine is running and pulling vacuum. The red led is on when the engine is running and shows the timing is working normally. It will also flash real quick when you turn the key on.

Pics would be helpful. Also, what are your 6 dip switches set too?
 
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Old 02-01-2016, 08:58 AM
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Originally Posted by Lonnie Mac
It would be great if you can take a few photos of your work so far. Yes, the black wire was ground, but you would have connected the violet wire to the black wire that the old violet wire was attached too, and again, the other black wire coming from the VOES is ground.

The VOES led (green) comes on when the VOES is grounded, when in normal operation it is on a lot when the engine is running and pulling vacuum. The red led is on when the engine is running and shows the timing is working normally. It will also flash real quick when you turn the key on.

Pics would be helpful. Also, what are your 6 dip switches set too?









Here you go, I am sorry for the mess jejeje

Thanks!
 
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Old 02-01-2016, 05:41 PM
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Cool. Thanks for the pics.

First before we go any further, and hopefully you have a multi meter, We need to make sure you have continuity between that pink wire you have in your hand, all the way to the pink wire on the coil. I suspect you don't. That pink wire you have on that connector usually goes to the tach, not the coil. If you can let me know that would be great! I will also ask, as you indicated you had spark, how did you test that?

Thanks man.
 
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Old 02-02-2016, 10:02 AM
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Originally Posted by Lonnie Mac
Cool. Thanks for the pics.

First before we go any further, and hopefully you have a multi meter, We need to make sure you have continuity between that pink wire you have in your hand, all the way to the pink wire on the coil. I suspect you don't. That pink wire you have on that connector usually goes to the tach, not the coil. If you can let me know that would be great! I will also ask, as you indicated you had spark, how did you test that?

Thanks man.
I am sorry this have taken this long. Learning hnew things and appreciate your help! For real. Just to clarify that bike has no tach, so I will remove the green wire.

The pink wire goes directly from the 2ki to the coil, there is continuity, the original pink was hidden. Not sure if I need to connect any other wires. No black wire on 2ki module.

I took the spark plugs off and just tried to start the bike with the spark plug near a screw head in the engine, work as ground. Spark appears by doing this, thats how I tested it.

Though this was something easy to do jeje
 

Last edited by XxPeChOxX; 02-02-2016 at 11:21 AM.
  #10  
Old 02-03-2016, 05:09 PM
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At this point my friend, I would disconnect the green wire and stow that away with the blue wire. It appears that the wiring is correct then, as long as you are sure that pink wire goes to the coil, that white wire has continuity to the coil with the w/b wire, you should have fire.

I would at this point suspect the timing as you have spark. How did you ensure that you were on TDC on the front cylinder when you timed it?
 

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