Tried a few different spacer lengths, and oil levels. Then I completely removed the stem bolt, put it back, did the fall away check and buttoned everything back up. Feels like it improved, but ultimately I think it's either A) in my head, or B) slight (normal) movement of the floating rotors. I'm calling it "ok" and moving on.

SO... I ordered up the Energy One kit, a gasket set, and an alloyboltz kit (since I'll have it open anyway): https://alloyboltz.com/catalog/produ...1povfhu5dva4u2

 

Energy one extra plate kit, Alloyboltz and gasket set arrived!

Not much to say on install that hasn't been said, and I failed to take many pics. If anyone has questions - ask away and I'll answer best I can though!

I followed the excellent sticky by slyedog here:
https://www.hdforums.com/forum/sport...t-writeup.html


And made the DIY compressor tool in this thread to save the 50$-70$ on a tool I'll hopefully only need the once:
https://www.hdforums.com/forum/sport...l#post15888945

Here are the pictures I did take, along with some notes...


Getting in there


Traced the new gasket on cardboard it came packaged with. Easy way to make sure you got them all, and you know what goes where. In my particular case I was replacing them all wiht the new Alloyboltz, but still helpful to ensure lengths are right etc.


Pressure plate exposed. Didn't remove clutch cable because I didn't have new o-ring and it wasn't required to remove it anyway.


Drilling hole for DIY Compressor tool. Screwed it down to a board to hold it still and sprayed WD40 to give some slip/reduce heat on drill bit


Success! My metal piece bent some, so I re-enforced with random TV wall mount piece I had laying around. As you can see, it bent some too, but got the job done with no issues.


Top down shot to show you can still access the snap ring easily.


Plates exposed.


Used Mobile 1 10w40 oil. I spoke with EnergyOne and they said the ONLY thing they've had trouble with is HD Syn3 - all other synthetics work fine.

Re-installed with the Alloyboltz. They are nice quality and it's great that they are labeled all in separate bags for you.

I'll get an after pic of them at some point. I plan on using the rest of the boltz as needed/time allows.

Conclusion:
Clutch feels great. I had read "your clutch may be slipping and you don't realize" in reference to this upgrade. I can say I fall into this camp for sure. Clutch locks up solid now, and the pull at lever feels exactly the same to me, even with the 15% stronger spring plate. I was intimidated by this install, but it was actually really easy. Just take your time and follow the write up. There's some videos on youtube too if you're more visual.

ps. My grenade ring looked fine (a little over 16k miles), but happy it's 1 less thing to worry about, and certainly shifts smoother. I have to imagine HD could save money going the extra plate vs rivets from factory...wonder why they don't?

 

Thanks for the writeup and pics...
Currently planning the upgrade myself.

 

I've had a 5 3/4" "bates style" bucket that matches my upper headlight for a while. I had hunted hunted for an LED bulb that would fit, but they were all too long.

Then, forum member WKNDS posted a pic showing an HD daymaker installed in his Bates style bucket! I ordered up a highly rated knock off from amazon ( ) and it fit great! Now my buckets match and I'm happy. So, thanks WKNDS!

Light cut off line is much better than the "scatter" of the drop in LED bulb. Haven't ridden at night yet, but I expect an improvement.




Tempted to replace the LED H4 Fog bulb in the top bucket with a "daymaker style" passing bulb now...

 

Sure thing. Take your time and it's really simple.

 

Thanks! This is my concern with the home made tool. From everyone's report, it is a non-issue.

Looks like I will be doing this soon. I'll make sure to get a thicker metal bar.

 

Had these mirror extensions for a while, but never used them because they make the mirrors TOO tall (and I'm 6'3" - who the heck are these for?). They looked like bug antenna.

I cut the OEM mirror stems to seat further into the extensions, and then cut the metal sleeves/spacers shorter to mask the gap. Red locktight, screwed extensions onto the shorter stems and boom, I can see past my shoulders.

Side note - tried them flipped, but I prefer the mirrors in my "line of sight" for safety. You are checking your 6 as you scan the road right?






Spacers make them too tall. Picture misleading - the sleeves actually go on TOP. That threaded bit now goes through the bars. So add the height of those spacers to the TOP section and that's really how much it raises your mirrors. It's crazy tall.

cut threads on mirror stems so they'd seat all the way into extension

Size I need to cut spacers to fill new shorter gap

Cutting spacers

Done. Really wish I could have gotten the OEM mirrors to screw all the way down into the extensions. That bottom bit below the line (where spacers start) would have been plenty, but the OEM threads don't go all the way up.

 

mot♡r******. welp. That's what I get for not picking up the phone

 

Ha. I was searching and reading what everyone used because I wanted something I could find locally. Then thought "why not just call them?".

 

I felt the same way. They look better under or gone for that matter but ultimately safety ruled the day for me. It's amazing how much more I can see from the mirrors now that the bars are higher

Nice little mod drb