Stator replacment on '08 Sportster 1200
#1
Stator replacment on '08 Sportster 1200
OK, I've been having issues with the charging system for a while, I brought it to the dealer and they said it was the voltage regulator, $480 later I had a brand new $90 Voltage regulator. A few months later the battery and engine lights came on again. The diag showed low voltage error code.
I bought a stator online, drained the primary drive case, removed the primary drive and the rotor - all good so far, next I started removing the stator and here's where the issue comes in.
When trying to pull the wire out it doesn't budge, I removed the plug but the wire looks like it comes out behind the crank case on the other side of the bike. Do I need to remove the crank case cover to get the cable out? I really don't want to put it back together and bring it to the dealer.
Thanks
I bought a stator online, drained the primary drive case, removed the primary drive and the rotor - all good so far, next I started removing the stator and here's where the issue comes in.
When trying to pull the wire out it doesn't budge, I removed the plug but the wire looks like it comes out behind the crank case on the other side of the bike. Do I need to remove the crank case cover to get the cable out? I really don't want to put it back together and bring it to the dealer.
Thanks
#2
I found these YouTube videos and there are several more for a bunch of years. Might help. . . Maybe extrapolate a bit given the different years than a 2008. The "string" in the second video is a good tip in order to install the new one.
OK, I've been having issues with the charging system for a while, I brought it to the dealer and they said it was the voltage regulator, $480 later I had a brand new $90 Voltage regulator. A few months later the battery and engine lights came on again. The diag showed low voltage error code.
I bought a stator online, drained the primary drive case, removed the primary drive and the rotor - all good so far, next I started removing the stator and here's where the issue comes in.
When trying to pull the wire out it doesn't budge, I removed the plug but the wire looks like it comes out behind the crank case on the other side of the bike. Do I need to remove the crank case cover to get the cable out? I really don't want to put it back together and bring it to the dealer.
Thanks
I bought a stator online, drained the primary drive case, removed the primary drive and the rotor - all good so far, next I started removing the stator and here's where the issue comes in.
When trying to pull the wire out it doesn't budge, I removed the plug but the wire looks like it comes out behind the crank case on the other side of the bike. Do I need to remove the crank case cover to get the cable out? I really don't want to put it back together and bring it to the dealer.
Thanks
Last edited by JayTee2015; 06-23-2017 at 04:44 PM.
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How's your battery? Once you're all buttoned up make sure that's not on the fritz or you'll be stuck on the road again.
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#9
$480?? Ooof!!!! The regulator is 2 screws and 2 plugs. That hurts. Sorry to poke at ya, but will be a good read for others who look this up in the future.
How's your battery? Once you're all buttoned up make sure that's not on the fritz or you'll be stuck on the road again.
How's your battery? Once you're all buttoned up make sure that's not on the fritz or you'll be stuck on the road again.
The battery is good, less than a year old and tests fine on the load tester.
Definitely a lessons learned for others.
#10
Patience and frustration. It is a very tight fit getting it out from behind the gear box. When I fed the new one back through I tied the leader string to the connector not the wire, this allowed for better positioning when passing the rear jug. I also put l little oil from the inside of the primary housing on the case around the wires to lube it up a bit.