So, I am planning on getting my suspension setup through several changes, not all at once. I just wanted to verify that I am not going the wrong route with my changes:

About me: ~160lbs w/o gear
Passenger: ~140lbs but only about 10% of the time
Bike: 2012 Nightster
I think the PO had longer shocks on it as the forks are pushed down in the tree to the lowest setting


Step 1: Progressive 12.5in Standard Duty rear shocks
Step 2: Progressive front springs and verify fork oil height, make changes as needed. Grease the steering head bearings and verify that its setup correctly.
Step 3: Intimidators and dampening tube swap (increasing the amount of travel) along with fork oil change to 5wt

Several things I am still figuring out:
I am temped to go with the ninja250 spring swap (.65kg/mm) which I have been seeing. Would be a cheap mod to do rather than the progressives.
I am also tempted to do the 1in lowering block (just to keep close to the original lines of the bike but still get the extra travel of the longer shock)

Any other suggestions?

 

Just an observation: changing the damper rods will raise the front. And if you're lowering the rear, you will not keep the original lines of the bike.

It probably doesn't really matter. Just saying...

 

I am not lowering the rear of the bike... It currently has 11in stock shocks on it already, hence why installing the 12.5 shocks then adding the 1in lowering block. It will add about .5in. How much does the damper rods raise the front? Thats one thing I haven't been able to find.

 

When I did mine (2007 XL1200L) here's what I ended up with:



That's 5.5" with the bike unladen, leaning on the jiffy.

BTW to get that kind of increase, I put new damper rods for the 2007 XL1200R.

 

I think Lewk understood what you were saying. You said you wanted to swap damper tube to increase travel. That means you have to go with taller suspension upfront (I’m being generic in my words because I’m not schooled on damper swaps. I know they’re used to raise or lower a front end.). So if you extend your front suspension and leave the rear low,..you may be a touch uphill.

For a lightweight rider like yourself, you’d see nice improvement with just a performance spring meant for an XLN. This way you can stay low,..if that’s what you’re going for and it won't be as mushy. From there you can decide if you want to add other doo-dads like intimidators, adjustable fork caps, etc..

I’d look into non-progressive rate springs though. Linear seems to be the way to go. I’m soon going to be selling my monotubes for linears because I plan to increase front end height and apparently there's no way to raise a front end with monotubes already installed.

I'm also going to list my Progressive 412 Cruise model shocks. They're a 12.5 shock but when you sit on the bike they look like you're on 11" shocks. You get the low look with the travel of a taller shock. No lowering block needed. DM if you may be interested. They're perfectly good with maybe 1000 miles. I'm simply in the process of upgrading.

 

Wanted to revive this thread because I need to raise the front of my 2012 Nightster as I did 13.5s out back. I know Tracker Die sells longer damper rods for $60-$70 but if I can find some used, or even longer HD ones for a diff model for cheaper,..then why not.

Post #3 shows rods from a 1200R but the holes are smaller. What does that mean for me?
883R rods have a slightly different p/n. Anyone know why the rod for this bike would be different?

Another mentioned rods from a dyna. Dyna and Sporty same rods?

Basically I need to go up at least 2" and looking to have multiple options so that I can find something on the cheap.

 

Nice blue on lewk's bike.

John

 

 

The fork oil will go through the hole more slowly. Assuming you are using the same fork oil weight as before, this will result in you feeling a firmer front-end when going over uneven pavement. If your front-end currently feels more on the spongy side, it might be a welcome change. But if it's already too stiff, it'll feel worse.

If it feels worse, I guess you can always drill the hole wider.

HTH.

 

Stock front on that L was 4"... mine is anyway.
What height did you put on back to match that?