Hi all,
This is my winter project, Going to go for a hooligan build. 19" rear wheel Tracker bars and probably a tail kit from Phil Little.
So... If you had the bike stripped to this point would you keep going and pull the motor out of the frame?
I have found a few questionable things so far.

The transmission sprocket nut was loose and had spun around and rounded off the on the lock plate. The lock plate is DONE.
The main shaft and sprocket are still in great shape. Just lucky I guess.
I do have the manual and all but the specialised tools. ie main shaft lock nut wrench.
Well what do you guys think?

Craig

 

Have you popped the caliper pistons and flushed the brake system?
wouldn't hurt to re torque the motor mounts and flush/refill the forks.
Don't forget to grease/torque the head bearings, and pull clean and light grease on the swingarm pivot bolt.
lube all cables, and the throttle assembly.
Good project, have fun and it will keep you busy the rest of the winter.
but when done you will have a safe reliable ride

 

heybaylor gives some good, basic advice.

You have to decide how far you want to go, but you haven't provided much information about the bike.

Was it running recently? If so, was it running well? What's compression like?

Do you want to paint the frame?

What's your overall plan?

It all depends on what you want to do with it.

I, for one, want to know that the internals are in great condition, so I would start there.

 

Thanks Guys,

I ended up going all the way Just so I can address as many problems as easily as possible.

So the bike started and idled fine, even in the cold, When I picked it up last week. It wasn't insured so I only rode it around the block.
No strange noises. Shifted great. It was in need of a set of plugs and a carb adjustment. Farted through the carb once.

So the bike only has 6250 miles on it. I just finished pulling and cleaning all the parts and the breaks look brand new. Seriously. Like they went on the week before I picked it up. The break lines are original but in good shape.
The head tube bearings were loose but in great shape so I re-packed them with fresh grease.
One of the oil lines under the engine was a little squished so I will swap that section out and be careful when putting everything back together.
The throttle and clutch cables are done and need to be replaced.
The exhaust is fine and only needs new seals on the install.
The pulley nut and lock ring spun around a bit and need to be replaced.
The frame is rust free and has very few marks on it.
The wiring harness has only been gently molested.
It needs a new oil pressure sensor... Whoops. The plastic cracked when I tried to loosen the nut before pulling the engine.

Next up is to pull and clean up the swing arm and have a closer look at and into the engine.
I've never checked compression before. So that will be something new.

The bike had been down a few times, which is why it was a deal. And why I don't mind giving it a face lift.

My plan is to give it a street tracker look. I already have a 19" front wheel to use in the back with an adapter from Phil Little Racing.
I need to paint the wheels because one of them is black and the other one is grey.
The case and heads are an ugly yellowish colour. I might have to do something with them as well.
It might look cool to have the heads, case and wheels the same colour.

I will probably get a tracker tail as well because the stock rear fender is beat up. The front fender is as well but I only need to cut off about 3" from the front to get rid of the major damage.

So that is the plan and what I am working with.

Any more advice would be appreciated.
Craig

 

This is the condition of the case, jugs and heads. I was thinking about hitting them with cans of HD or VHT paint.
Good Idea? Bad Idea? Any other options the than pulling the whole thing apart and getting it powder coated?

I'm sure I will regret putting the engine back in the frame as is.

I repacked the swing arm pivot. The bearings and bushing were in amazing shape. The old grease was still bright blue.

Craig

 

with 6200 miles on it is still a new motor, run a compresson check and bleed down
test and clean it up and run it.

 

So I have everything cleaned and polished and it is time to put it back together.
The cables and oil-fuel-brake lines are all original and I would like to replace all of them.
I did a search and came up empty.
Have any of you installed matching cables and lines on your bikes. I would like to do stainless braided for everything.

Any Ideas on where I can buy a complete matching cable/line kit or a company who offers everything? Clutch, Throttle, Brake, Oil and Fuel.

Thanks in advance,
Craig

 

Ill be watching this thread. Keep up the good work!

 

So all the parts have been cleaned up and I am now putting enough of the bike back together in order to measure up new cables and lines.
Everything is going to be replaced. I managed to find all the lines and cables I need in the right lengths. All braided stainless from Drag Specialists.

One Issue I had is finding a Clutch cable. The only matching cable I could find in the right length for the new Tracker Bars has 2 3/4 free play.
2 9/16 is the correct amount of free play. It's close enough I think... Unless someone thinks +3/16 is too much I will go with it.

Since I am going to be running the same 19" wheels front and back I will probably run the same tires as well. I really like the balanced look. I have and effective 14 1/2"
worth of shock in the back so clearing the diameter of the new hoops won't be a problem.
A matched set of Heidenau K34 4.00x19 tires should work great and look cool. Slightly over on the front and slightly under in the back.
The tires will help a lot with the tracker look and be good rubber for daily riding.

The braided stainless break lines front and back should help with cool as well as performance. I am going to go with a single length rear break line and use a brake switch banjo bolt. Should be an ez install.

The only setback I had yesterday is realizing that the used S&S Super E I bought came with an Eco intake and not a Sportster intake. There is another $100 in unexpected costs. Just add that to the list of them I guess.

Craig

 

Well I've started getting the new to me 3.3 gallon tank and a Phil Little tail installed.
I picked up some stainless oil lines as well but ran into an issue of not having the right fittings to get the oil return heading toward the back of the bike.
I bought the Drag Specialists 3 line kit and the best I could do with what was supplied was aim the oil return straight down. Hmmmm... oh well.
Any one else have an issue finding 1/2" braided stainless oil line for the oil feed and drain line?

I found a 2000-2003 left fork slider and 4 piston caliper to make the 2000-2003 13 spoke wheel I have work. The hub was too wide to line the caliper up with the rotor.
Has any one else had to do this? Now I need to sand and polish up another slider to match. Not and EZ job when your only power tool is a cordless drill.

On the bright side my $10 bike lift has been holding up well. I hope to have the bike back on the ground by the beginning of next week when I get the rear 19" wheel back from the machine shop. I needed to get it drilled and tapped for an adaptor to use a 13 spoke 19" wheel in the rear.

Craig