Thanks! I'm not a mechanic but it strikes me that the code for the heater circuit would not be related to an exhaust leak at the header? I'm out of town for Thanksgiving but when I get home I'm going to check for an exhaust leak using soapy water and a shop vac. Assuming it's not an exhaust leak, is there anything else it could be besides the O2 sensor?

 

STOP! If this makes no sense to you, dont do anything else. You need to be able understand how these systems work to fix them. The O2 sensor has a heater circuit in it. O2 sensors need to get to operating temperature before they work. Take to your local shop if you feel your over your head. An exhaust leak would have to be so large as to bypass the O2 sensor before it had no activity

 

 

Its not an exhaust leak an exhaust leak gives an error code too lean not what you have. Find which wire is 12v see if you have voltage ,use the O2 sensor mounts as ground. If not move ground for voltmeter to a known good ground see if that changes it. If has 12v hook up scanner as previous poster told you watch O2 sensor if no activity after 4 mins its toast.

 

 

Well?

 

I did the shop vac bubble test and the rear is leaking. This weekend I'll take off the rear to see what's going on with the gasket. Sounds like I didn't get a good seal. After I put it back on and confirm no leak, I'll clear the code and see what happens...

 

It may be worth trying to deduce whether it is the physical install of the pipes or the map that is the issue before changing parts. O2 sensors aren't particularly cheap.

Firstly delete the codes and confirm they come back.

Viewing the O2 sensor data is a good idea and will help familiarize you with how your tuner works. Even if you can't fully interpret the information, you are looking for quick fluctuations in voltage once hot from both front and rear. As the front is working fine, use that as a guide as to how fast those fluctuations should be. Bear in mind that the front and rear won't be the same values, but it's the speed of change that you should be looking at.

Verify that you have the most appropriate map from PV installed.

Does your tuner have the option of re-installing the stock map from HD?
If so and as a quick test, it might be worth putting that map back on the bike to help see if the problem is related to the install of the exhaust and the O2 sensor, or related to the map in the tuner that you chose, It might not run so nice, but if the problem goes away then it is more likely related to the map you installed, particularly if the bike was fine before.

Try re-flashing a fresh download of the correct map and even try selecting a map slightly different to your current bike, like a 1200 map or different exhaust. To run this for a short while will not do any harm and if the problem is gone, then it would suggest there is no problem with the O2 sensor itself or the wiring to it.

 

Thanks j_bee. This is great advice. At a minimum, I need to fix the exhaust leak so I think I'll do that first and then, if the issue still persists, look into the o2 sensor data and stuff. My hope is that once the leak is fixed, the codes won't come back after I clear them. My tuner does have the option to go back to the stock map if needed.

 

Please don't over tighten the exhaust stud nuts. You break a stud, you're in a world of hurt installing an overpriced noisemaker. 8-9 ft/lbs only. Be very, very gentle with those studs. There should be a gap between flange and head. Be careful and gentle. I'd put some high temp anti-seize on those studs too, if it was me, but I owned a lot of VW's in the past and have PTSD (post traumatic stud disorder) over exhaust studs.

John