Fuel octane question
#41
#43
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Paintslinger16 (01-12-2019)
#44
#46
Hell, My answer is a compromise
Most people just don't understand, most race machinists get bored explaining and you notice you don't see them on here very much eplainin.
You CANT have FAST and longevity
The faster it is the the the timeline to TBO is shorter.
More equal, less .its linear.
So YES you can have that idle with a big cam and a lope lope.
Not to put words in Hammer engineering mouth- remember they was not only a cam there, there was head work which includes perhaps different valve angles then std 45 deg, hipo springs, short guides ,
On and on and on.
If you want a race engine bring a wallet of thousand dollar bills and be happy to spend it over an over.
Nothing wrong with that...it is just a real fact
#47
Hammer Performance
How will this change the reliability and longevity of my motor?
=leftModifying an engine is lot like drinking red wine or eating steak. Done in moderation, it's causes no problems and can even be healthy. Done in excess, it can shorten your life. That said, the XL engine has enough design margin that you can typically get a pretty substantial increase in horsepower and torque without doing anything in excess. =leftHere's a real world example to illustrate this. Let's say you're going to install a new set of cams. A set of Screamin Eagle .536 lift cams requires only moderately strong springs for proper valvetrain control up to say 7200rpm. Parts in the valvetrain that have their wear accelerated by higher spring pressures (valve tips, rocker bushings, lifters & lifter rollers, cams and their bushings, cam gear teeth, etc) are hardly going to notice, you'll get minimal extra wear from using a 150lb seat pressure spring instead of the factory 120lb springs. The lift is low enough that you won't cause any measurable increase in valve guide wear from side loading, either. The bottom line is that a motor with these cams should last about as long as a stock motor. And yet, we've had many many customers break 100 horsepower using SE .536 cams, and some have broken 110hp. =leftOn the other hand, if you want to build a 120+ horsepower bike, the SE 536's aren't going to cut it. Maybe you'll choose something like a Wood W68S, which has .678 lift, and you need to spin the motor 7500+rpm. You're going to need a fairly healthy set of springs to support that, probably something on the order of at least 220lbs on the seat. The wear of all those aforementioned valvetrain components is going to go up dramatically, and you'll be lucky to get even half the life from them. You'll also increase the risk of breaking something in the valvetrain. =leftThe same comparisons go for other areas of the engine, including the top end and bottom end. Done in moderation, mods won't measurably affect engine life or increase the risk of failure. We've got combinations that have repeatedly made 100-105hp on 1250cc XL engines with no change in the longevity or reliability.
How will this change the reliability and longevity of my motor?
=leftModifying an engine is lot like drinking red wine or eating steak. Done in moderation, it's causes no problems and can even be healthy. Done in excess, it can shorten your life. That said, the XL engine has enough design margin that you can typically get a pretty substantial increase in horsepower and torque without doing anything in excess. =leftHere's a real world example to illustrate this. Let's say you're going to install a new set of cams. A set of Screamin Eagle .536 lift cams requires only moderately strong springs for proper valvetrain control up to say 7200rpm. Parts in the valvetrain that have their wear accelerated by higher spring pressures (valve tips, rocker bushings, lifters & lifter rollers, cams and their bushings, cam gear teeth, etc) are hardly going to notice, you'll get minimal extra wear from using a 150lb seat pressure spring instead of the factory 120lb springs. The lift is low enough that you won't cause any measurable increase in valve guide wear from side loading, either. The bottom line is that a motor with these cams should last about as long as a stock motor. And yet, we've had many many customers break 100 horsepower using SE .536 cams, and some have broken 110hp. =leftOn the other hand, if you want to build a 120+ horsepower bike, the SE 536's aren't going to cut it. Maybe you'll choose something like a Wood W68S, which has .678 lift, and you need to spin the motor 7500+rpm. You're going to need a fairly healthy set of springs to support that, probably something on the order of at least 220lbs on the seat. The wear of all those aforementioned valvetrain components is going to go up dramatically, and you'll be lucky to get even half the life from them. You'll also increase the risk of breaking something in the valvetrain. =leftThe same comparisons go for other areas of the engine, including the top end and bottom end. Done in moderation, mods won't measurably affect engine life or increase the risk of failure. We've got combinations that have repeatedly made 100-105hp on 1250cc XL engines with no change in the longevity or reliability.
Last edited by apache snow; 01-11-2019 at 08:36 PM.
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Kingglide549 (01-11-2019)
#48