If it sat for a year, it could be the passage from the pilot jet to mixture screw is partially clogged. The pilot jet orifice is very tiny, and the mixture screw feeds the transfer ports near the butterfly, and they are super tiny openings as well. Probably a good idea to take out both and clean with carb cleaner and a blast of air. My pilot had some buildup on it that causes an erratic idle. I think most of us have the mix screw set about 2 1/2 turns out from lightly seated. That's a good starting point.

John

 

Sorry OP for the hijack, but have a question for John.

I am having difficulty dialing in my idle....dies at idle. Is the starting point 2 1/2 turns out from lightly seated or is that your optimal setting.. S&S recommends 1 1/4 out on a Super E as the starting point, but I have a Super B with a 96 stroker dual plugs.

To the OP, as John mentioned be sure fuel system is clean and free of any crud i.e. good fuel and tank clean, fuel line clear, float bowl and needle as well as jets cleaned, plugs replaced or cleaned and properly gapped, Test for fuel leaks, intake leaks, and exhaust leaks.. I just went through the same thing. You need to do these before fussing with any adjustments. For me, I found an intake leak at the manifold which was causing popping/hesitation on acceleration between 2000-3000 rpm.. Good luck.

 

I have the CV40, (45 pilot, 180 DJ mainjet w/Dynojet kit) and have it at 2.5 out from lightly seated, and fiddled with it using the idle drop method. My bike seems to like the 2.5 setting. Not sure on the S&S, but maybe turning it in and out a bit (idle drop method) at low RPM might help you see if it needs to be more than 1.25 turns. Good luck!

John

 

There is no specific setting , you open it till it runs rich, you close it until it goes lean , The best is on a slightly rich side.

 

Thanks.....was just verifying the recommended starting point where the bike will start and idle to begin the adjustment process.