I did the Hammer 1250 conversion with updated ignition in the kit. I'm very happy with the results.

 

I will do the hammer kit when my old 1200 craps out.

 

I talked with Dan from NRHS and he has a 1250 kit for $650.00 and he will size the rings and put them in the cylinders for me. It comes with a complete gasket set and valve guide seals.

 

We like Hammer performance much better. You cant beat their customer service and their kits are top notch.

 

What is the break in procedure after a conversion. Ive heard I should just ride it like normal???

 

From Hammer Performance..

1. Proper break-in is critical to realizing maximum life and performance of your engine kit! We can't stress this enough. Follow these steps to the letter. Ignore any alternative methods you may read about on the internet!
   • Minimizing heat is absolutely essential to successful break-in, and excessive heat will damage your pistons and forever condemn your motor to be a mediocre performer. The reason for this is that neither your rings nor your cylinder bores are perfectly round on initial assembly. Therefore, the rings are actually only making contact with the cylinder walls in a few places. The tension of the rings is concentrated in these places, increasing friction and heat. This condition exists until the rings have a chance to carve the cylinders into their shape. While that process is taking place, however, the rings and the pistons are very vulnerable to damage from excess heat. You can learn more about this phenomena by researching "ring microwelding". It's a very real risk to your engine!
   • The assembly lube you put on the rings and pistons is to help combat ring microwelding. Yes, we know that some shops recommend minimal or even no lube at all to better assist the break-in process. We don't subscribe to that theory. Your rings are at much greater risk of microwelding than they are of failing to seat. They will seat just fine. You need to pay attention to the possibility of damaging them.
   • On your initial start-up, run the engine no longer than 10 seconds. Use a clock with a second hand or a stop watch. Don't guess! Shut it off and allow it to cool completely to room temperature. A little bit of patience now will go a long way to providing you with a strong motor that lasts a long time.
   • For your second heat cycle, run the motor no longer than 20 seconds. Again, time it properly, don't guess. Allow it to cool completely.
   • Repeat these heat and cool cycles with run times of 30 and 40 seconds.
   • You're now ready for your first ride. Keep the rpm's down as much as possible and keep air flowing across the cylinders. Ride it no more than a mile, shut it down, and let it cool completely
   • For your second ride, treat it similarly gently. Keep your rpm's below 3500 and keep air moving across the cylinders. Ride it a couple miles and let it cool completely.
   • For the next 50 miles, do not exceed 3500rpm and avoid using full throttle. Vary your speeds, allowing the engine to pull and then decelerate gradually. This reversal on the rings, from pressure to vacuum, assists in the seating process.
   • For the next 500 miles, stay below 4000rpm, avoid using full throttle, and keep the heat down.
   • Once you're past the 500 mile break-in period, change your oil. During break-in, the rings have carved the cylinders into their shape and the shavings have been captured in the oil, so you want to change the oil to get that stuff out. Use any high quality 20W-50 oil formulated for air-cooled V-Twin engines.
   • Have your bike professionally dyno tuned. Proper tuning is critical to maximum power, long life, and good gas mileage. It makes no sense at all to spend thousands on motor work and then leave power on the table, and put it all at risk, because you didn't spend a couple hundred on a proper dyno tune.
   • You are now ready to enjoy the full power of your new engine kit!

 

Almost exactly the same instructions as with the S&S kit, break-in period is important for the life of the cylinders and pistons.

 

Thanks for all the info. I will probably have more dumb questions in the near feature. I plan on doing this conversion in a couple of weeks if I can swing it $$$

 

I'm sure he would chime in on your thread and post up some info, BUT he can't because he is BANNED! What's that tell ya........? lmao

 

I have decided to go with the Hammer Performance 1250 Kit. Wish me luck.