You have changed the exhaust system and therefore changed the torque / power curve from low down to the upper end.

In the process you might of even lost some power.

 

Thanks Midpegs for your reply and evaluation!......I might have gotten carried away a little?.....LOL...
Yes, it is entirely possible that the V&H short shots that replaced the original stock pipes has altered the torque/power curve characteristics in a minimal way, however the only way that I can make any comparison would be to install quiet baffles in the short shots which will add some back-pressure which in turn could boost the power output some!.........as suggested by others who had done the same.......Not really convinced that I need an FP3 tuner yet....?..I'm still just a "rookie"..!

 

 

Just a short comment - with the luxury of your tuner (I use an V&H FP3) - with also a faster air cleaner on my bike, if you swap baffles (and I have done this twice) - change the mapping using your tuner. Makes all sense and from experience I feel the benefits. For those without a tuner - the baffle change means different back pressure (as said) and thus any current map would not be quite optimal.

 

I have a feeling the guys have only changed the pipes and are stuck with the stock tune.

So many people change the mufflers or in the case of V&H short shots the complete exhaust just to make more noise without ever being aware of the consequent change to the power and torque output of the engine.

My 2017 bike sounded lean stock and a retune made a marked difference to the tone of the engine and the way it ran.

 

Yep 100% agreed Andy from Sandy.
In my younger days (perhaps your’s too!) when we swapped out exhausts or endcans (mufflers for the US folk) you pretty much had no choice, but then to set about swapping your carb jets - your bike just wouldn’t run well (if at all) if you weren’t ready to swap jets. The age of “efi” masks what is really needed (a remap!) as the efi can only adjust within very small parameters.
I’m a big fan of my FP3 and the V&H support.

 

Shanneba IS right about keeping the Rs down during breakin. Technically this is under 3500rpm for the first 500 miles on a new bike. But this is because you're not only breaking in the motor but other moving parts of the bike as well.
The key to a long lasting, healthy motor is use common sense. Even after the first 500 miles, start increasing the revs gradually for the next 100 or so miles. Dont just jump to 7000 rpm and yes these motors will handle 7000 rpm.
I just did recently did a Hammer Performance 1200/1250 build with Jackhammer 570 cams and I have the rev limiter set at 6800rpm now that my breakin miles are done. The breakin procedure from Hammer Performance is first of all heat cycling the motor which has already been done at the factory for a new bike. Then a 1 mile ride and shut it down to cool. Then under 3500 for 50 and under 4000rpm for the next 450 miles and just as importantly DON'T LUG THE MOTOR! Break in is about keeping the heat down.
I don't have a tach. I go by how the motor sounds and feels. Bounced it off the rev limiter for the first time the other day seeing what it can do.

 

Going 10,000 miles on an oil change is stupid I don't care what oil you use. Have you thought about contamination? Fuel, water, etc.? Also, take a look at my link to UOAs at Bob's the oil guy in the oil thread. It will show you what happens to M1 v-twin at 5,000 miles compared to Vr1 conventional. Amsoil too. People think synthetic is some kind of miracle oil and common sense goes out the window.
Off topic but 10,000 miles on any oil is just plain stupid. No other way to put it. 5,000 is too many. 2,000 to 2500 miles max. Mine never sees 2000. Oil is cheap. Unless you buy these designer oils. Motors are not.

 

It sounds like the best outcome for optimizing the engine performance after a pipe change would be to use the V&H FP3 to re-tune.
I'm going to install the quiet baffles to hopefully gauge the effects on engine performance over a wide range of riding conditions, and if that outcome becomes negligible then perhaps the FP3 would be the next logical step.
Ultimately I want the best performance and longevity from my engine, to keep it 'healthy'...

 

The only way you can make that as a claim for more oil changes is to actually have empirical data from two engines you have run, one using manufacturers oil change intervals and one using yours. Taking the tops off and measuring at the wear on the components.