Hey folks...So ive been lurking around for a bit now, picking up alot of interesting info from everyone.
I am the proud owner of a 2000 XL1200C that i have have had for a few months now. When i purchased the bike i thought it was flawless until a few weeks later it started leaking fuel. Took it to a local bike shop and was told i had rust in the tank and that it would need to be fixed or replaced with a new tank. Soooo...long story, short... im gonna do the repair myself but wanted the forums opinion on which would be the best kit to buy. So which would be better...POR-15 OR KBS coatings?

 

Has anybody used either one of these kits for fuel tanks?

 

This is just my opinion. Plus I followed the instructions to a T.

I fought a tank leak for a year. used a couple different liners, had it soldered at a radiator shop, soldered it myself twice. Re coating it each time. It would of been cheaper said and done buying a new tank. I got a brand new OEM tank on ebay for $350. (the one on the bike now). The old tank which still looks new is sitting on a cupboard. lol

 

I have read some articles about some tank coatings and Ethanol DO NOT MIX . Especially if the bike sets do to the fuel separates. Go to some swap meets should be able to pick up a take off tank cheep.

 

Freebird...its not my tank thats leaking, its the rust particles from inside the tank that are clogging up the carb and causing it to leak. And i dont think i can afford a new tank...im tryin to find the cheapest fix i can.

Even if i buy a new tank though, wont i still have to get one of these kits to seal it?

 

Well, following the instructions for the sealer you should be able to get the rust out. Its a long *** proccess. Make sure to get a complete kit. Have you checked the condition of the filter in your tank?

Mine was a factory OEM tank. It was already painted and sealed.


This is Kreems application instructions.



Kreem Tank Mask


Remove dust and dire from all surfaces to be protected. Make sure surface is dry.


Use a paint brush to apply TANK MASK to the entire surface to be protected and let dry 20-30 minutes. Use two or three coats for maximum protection. Note: Drying time is affected by temperature, humidity and air movement. Apply at 70 degrees F or above. Use of heat or forced air movement will speed dry time. TANK MASK must be dry before using Tank Prep A&B and Tank Liner.


Remove TANK MASK by peeling or wash with warm, soapy water and sponge or soft cloth.
Kreem Cleaner/Degreaser


Pour contents into tank and shake tank for 5 minutes. Be sure that all internal surfaces of the tank have been rinsed with the new tank cleaner.

Drain New Tank Cleaner and rinse with water. The tank is now ready for KREEM’s Tank Prep A & B and KREEM sealer.

Tank Prep-A & B

Read warning statements on this label and on Part B label.


Remove the tank from the vehicle, remove any valves and petcocks and stop all outlets.


Wash out tank with hot soapy water. If the tank is badly rusted and has loose flaky rust add stones or nuts and bolts to agitate to remove loose rust.


For new tanks, it is important to remove oily protective coating before using Tank Prep. An industrial strength detergent or commercial degreaser/cleaner like KREEM’s New Tank Cleaner/Degreaser or acetone should be used.


Pour Tank Prep A into tank and add 5 gallons of warm water. Tank Prep A works best when tank is completely full and in contact with all metal surfaces. If this is not possible you should turn the tank to different positions so that the solution has extended contact with all metal surfaces.


Leave Tank Prep A in the tank until all the rust is dissolved and the metal is etched to a dull gray finish. The time required will depend on the amount of rust in the tank. New tanks can be etched in 4 hours. Rusty tanks will take longer; we suggest overnight.

ALLOW TANK TO VENT. DO NOT ALLOW PRESSURE TO BUILD UP!


Drain Tank Prep A solution into a plastic container and check tank. If all rust is removed proceed to step B. If rust is still present add saved Tank Prep A solution to tank again until rust is removed.


Flush the tank with clean water until rinse water no longer foams and all traces of Tank Prep are removed. Remove all excess water.


Immediately rinse tank interior with full-strength Tank Prep B and agitate to ensure thorough treatment. Drain out all excess Tank Prep B.


Immediately seal the tank with KREEM FUEL TANK LINER according to label directions.
Kreem Tank Liner

Shake or stir well before use. Keep container tightly closed when not in use. Stop all outlets except fill spout.


Pour Liner into tank and coat entire inner surface by slowly rotating tank in all directions.When all surfaces have been completely coated, a generous excess should remain. Let tank stand for 8-10 minutes with spout open, then close spout and slowly rotate tank allowing excess to re-coat all surfaces. Let tank stand for an additional 8-10 minutes with spout open however, this time on a different side. Repeat this until the tank has the desired coating. Do not allow coating to drain to one area and dry. Drain off excess coating for later use.


Drain any excess, remove all stops and allow to air-dry in a well ventilated area for at least 24 hours. A nozzle from a low pressure air compressor blowing lightly into the fuel spout and out another opening will greatly reduce setup time.


For extra protection, air-dry first coat for 6 hours or longer and repeat step 2 of application process.

 

I haven't had any experience with tank sealer. I just wanted to say welcome.

 

Im confused on how a rusty tank can cause leaking.. but ok..

for example my tank has been damaged at one point.... so much so that it cracked the liner in my tank.. about once or twice a year I have to drain the tank and clean it out and the pep-****.. but other than that.. I keep on going..

where is this leaking coming from?

 

I didnt understand at first either, but according to the "machanic"....he says that small peices of rust from my tank are getting into the carb and causing the float not to work the way its supposed to. This is causing the bowl to overflow with fuel and then leak or come out through an overflow tube or something. The tank itself is not leaking.

 

Oh yeah... and thanks SHOAT for the kind welcome