Primary Chain Adjustment
#21
11-11-2010, 01:04 PM
Join Date: Sep 2010
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I think I get it completely now, just wasn't sure how to move where the nut is on the adjuster. Thanks!! on a side note, I have heard of this whine method many times now, I get it and how it works but does anyone know what causes the sound? I mean if the bike is started and left in neutral what would possibly make the sound?
#22
11-11-2010, 05:40 PM
I think I get it completely now, just wasn't sure how to move where the nut is on the adjuster. Thanks!! on a side note, I have heard of this whine method many times now, I get it and how it works but does anyone know what causes the sound? I mean if the bike is started and left in neutral what would possibly make the sound?
#23
01-09-2018, 03:37 PM
Stage I
Join Date: Jan 2018
Location: Colorado
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Primary chain
Raise rear wheel, Mark rear wheel at 12...3...6....9 like a clock..using your finger with nail side up lift the chain.. remove finger...rotate wheel to next mark ..check again...one of these points will be tighter...use a ruler and lifting with finernail side lift chain in the center..(between clutch hub and drive)
the rational of using fingernail side is you will be truly checking slack...in the chain because lifting with the fingertip makes you use some strength to feel the tightness... again the goal is to adjust slack...the thickness of the chain is 3/8 inch...you can use the top or bottom of the link and a little loose is better than any too tight..
This is also the proper procedure taught at MOM for harley...
hope that helps..
hop
the rational of using fingernail side is you will be truly checking slack...in the chain because lifting with the fingertip makes you use some strength to feel the tightness... again the goal is to adjust slack...the thickness of the chain is 3/8 inch...you can use the top or bottom of the link and a little loose is better than any too tight..
This is also the proper procedure taught at MOM for harley...
hope that helps..
hop
#24
01-09-2018, 03:42 PM
Seasoned HDF Member
#27
05-23-2020, 10:15 PM
Manuals
Guys, what the manual is saying is to find the tightest spot throughout the rotation cycle of the chain and measure it there. If you are unsure, take a measurement every 3" of rotation until you've gone around the entire chain. The reasoning is that chains stretch, but not evenly. This is one of the reasons they went with a belt for the final drive asm. A belt may stretch also, but it "snaps back" because it's flexible. A hardened chain does not snap back to it's original spec. once stretched.
So, by measuring the chain tension all the way around, you make your final adjustment per the tightest spot in the chains rotation cycle. What they fail to mention is that if your chain is stretched too much in one spot (ie. the loosest measurement you can find) that your chain is probably toast and needs to be changed.
(My favorite emoti...)
So, by measuring the chain tension all the way around, you make your final adjustment per the tightest spot in the chains rotation cycle. What they fail to mention is that if your chain is stretched too much in one spot (ie. the loosest measurement you can find) that your chain is probably toast and needs to be changed.
(My favorite emoti...)Clymer M427-4
#28
05-24-2020, 02:54 AM
Outstanding HDF Member
I think I get it completely now, just wasn't sure how to move where the nut is on the adjuster. Thanks!! on a side note, I have heard of this whine method many times now, I get it and how it works but does anyone know what causes the sound? I mean if the bike is started and left in neutral what would possibly make the sound?
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JustDave71
Primary/Transmission/Driveline/Clutch
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06-12-2010 11:08 AM
