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Bike running bad, dealer says its me?

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  #21  
Old 05-08-2012, 10:10 PM
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Originally Posted by lesgeaux
Brother, if your bike is under warranty, call Harley corporate first thing in the morning and tell them you want to open a case. Get case number. Discuss the problem with them and ask them what they want u to do. This way a$$hat dealer can't charge you for anything cause all you want is a safe running bike, be sure to make it clear to corporate the same thing, you just purchased a bike and want to ride safely but cannot the way it was delivered to you.
I'd bet dollars to donuts this bike has a tune other than stock, and not a good one. Letting a dealer find that out might not be the best idea warranty wise. Not certain if the OP actually bought this bike from a dealer, or if it was a private sale. Sorry if I missed that info.
 

Last edited by CanuckSporty; 05-08-2012 at 10:13 PM.
  #22  
Old 05-08-2012, 11:06 PM
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Originally Posted by CanuckSporty
I'd bet dollars to donuts this bike has a tune other than stock, and not a good one. Letting a dealer find that out might not be the best idea warranty wise. Not certain if the OP actually bought this bike from a dealer, or if it was a private sale. Sorry if I missed that info.
Good point there. I am pretty sure that there are 2 ways to get an aftermarket tune with a Ford PCM. Either thru the J3 socket with a chip or thru the OBD2 port. J3 socket has a coating and you have to remove it to use your chip. OBD2 port leaves a signature whenever you program it. So, a Ford garage can hook up their Ford scanner and say "Well, it has been reprogrammed 10 times. We programmed it once and updated it. How do you account for the other 9 times?". This will prove it has been flashed and your warranty could be in jeopardy. Does the HD ECM have that "feature"? IDK. Do you?

If it were me, I'd get a SE AC and tell them I bought a HD AC and want a "Stage 1" download and see whether the ECM was programmed poorly. If it still does, we can talk about diagnostics. Right now, there is no way to know what is on that ECM as far as tune. The worst thing the slip on pipes can do is make it run leaner than stock. So why is it running rich? Not sure the O2 sensors are giving a false signal since it is running rich at start up which is probably out of Closed Loop so it must be in Open Loop. Just thinking aloud.
 
  #23  
Old 05-08-2012, 11:27 PM
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Okay I looked back and see that you did buy from a dealer. Just get them to reflash the stock map, it will take them all of 30 seconds. Tell them you think the PO loaded a bad tune on it. Then it will go back to running lean like a stock bike will. If you want to get it running right after that get it tuned by a reputable tuner, or do it yourself if you desire.
 
  #24  
Old 05-08-2012, 11:38 PM
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Dyno tune. Problem solved. Lots of them actually. Can fix the stock lean condition too
 
  #25  
Old 05-08-2012, 11:59 PM
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Originally Posted by Shredding rubber
Dyno tune. Problem solved. Lots of them actually. Can fix the stock lean condition too
Before doing a dyno tune, perhaps it might be best to know what exactly caused this. If doing a Stage 1 makes it run lean, sure, dyno the sucker. OTOH, if it is still rich at a Stage 1 on SEPST, you might have other issus.
 
  #26  
Old 05-09-2012, 12:07 AM
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A couple things to try before you take it to the dealer and reflash it.

First, you say you're doing 30 in FIRST and it feels like it's cutting out. Could it be that you're hitting the rev limiter? These bikes don't rev like a sportbike and their rev cut off may feel really low. I know I've found the one on my Dyna a time or two by accident.

Second, before having the dealer reflash your ECM, try resetting the fuel trims. You can do this by disconnecting the negative terminal on your battery and leaving it off for about an hour. I'm not positive about the time (I know GMs it's about half an hour) so you could leave it off overnight and that would DEFINATELY do it. Then reattach your negative terminal and take her out for about a 50 mile jaunt. Stay out of open loop if you can while doing this but be certain to vary your speed. Lots of city driving would do this or at least some windy roads where you're constantly accelerating and deccelerating. Just keep in mind to accelerate easy and keep it out of open loop. This should retrain your Fuel Trims.

If this doesn't solve the problem then I'd have the dealer reflash the ECM and, if they ask, reset the fuel trims when they do. They should but you never know.
 
  #27  
Old 05-09-2012, 12:19 AM
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Originally Posted by Robotech
A couple things to try before you take it to the dealer and reflash it.

First, you say you're doing 30 in FIRST and it feels like it's cutting out. Could it be that you're hitting the rev limiter? These bikes don't rev like a sportbike and their rev cut off may feel really low. I know I've found the one on my Dyna a time or two by accident.

Second, before having the dealer reflash your ECM, try resetting the fuel trims. You can do this by disconnecting the negative terminal on your battery and leaving it off for about an hour. I'm not positive about the time (I know GMs it's about half an hour) so you could leave it off overnight and that would DEFINATELY do it. Then reattach your negative terminal and take her out for about a 50 mile jaunt. Stay out of open loop if you can while doing this but be certain to vary your speed. Lots of city driving would do this or at least some windy roads where you're constantly accelerating and deccelerating. Just keep in mind to accelerate easy and keep it out of open loop. This should retrain your Fuel Trims.

If this doesn't solve the problem then I'd have the dealer reflash the ECM and, if they ask, reset the fuel trims when they do. They should but you never know.
Good points but 30 mph in first? I doubt you'd be over 4500 rpm. I could check when I ride tomorrow, maybe I'm wrong.

One thing about it cutting out.....are you anywhere near low on fuel? These bikes will cut out from fuel starvation if anywhere close to empty, even with a 1/4 tank when accelerating off the line.
 

Last edited by CanuckSporty; 05-09-2012 at 12:21 AM.
  #28  
Old 05-09-2012, 10:22 AM
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Originally Posted by aklim
If it is running rich, maybe the fuel is not atomizing properly and it could be dirty injectors or maybe the spark is weak. I would check the spark. Not sure how to check injectors except to R&R them and send them out.

When you say "dealership", who do you mean? The Service Adviser, aka moron or a mechanic?

BTW, below is the HD spec for my 2011 SuperLow

First to second 15
Second to third 25
Third to fourth 35
Fourth to fifth 45

You can download your manual from HD and see where it says what.
It was advice from the salesman and service. They want me to bring the bike in, so im trying to get it there tomarrow.
 
  #29  
Old 05-09-2012, 10:25 AM
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Originally Posted by CanuckSporty
Good points but 30 mph in first? I doubt you'd be over 4500 rpm. I could check when I ride tomorrow, maybe I'm wrong.

One thing about it cutting out.....are you anywhere near low on fuel? These bikes will cut out from fuel starvation if anywhere close to empty, even with a 1/4 tank when accelerating off the line.

Fuel is fine, most times it was happening it was atleast 2/3's full. If not a bit more. Ive never gone below the light after it comes on, then it takes 3 gal to fill. so theres always 1.5 gal in it.
 
  #30  
Old 05-09-2012, 10:35 AM
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Originally Posted by Harryinny
It was advice from the salesman and service. They want me to bring the bike in, so im trying to get it there tomarrow.
I would talk to the tech. Service advisors can't find their Dick if you unzippd their pants, took it out and tied a red bow on it.
 
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