Thanks kevin. I sent you a pm question, needed info. thanks

 

Installed the 158w's in the SE (slash down) slipons I had put on my 2014 BO last year. I just did the job yesterday as part of my winter to do list, removing the baffles and installing the TTI's. I haven't heard em yet as my bike is in an unheated garage and I prefer to avoid mid winter starts. I can't ride without snow tires anyway and I'm pretty sure I'll have gained some volume so no mystique there. I'm planning on installing Andrews 57H cams later this winter. Among other things, I should get an interesting lope at idle.

The 158's in my 3" slipons don't visually seem to fill in much of the opening. I've adjusted them as tall as possible so the disk is just below being centered in the opening, cone/stud forward. This is normal no ?

 

If you can give us a call at the office that would be great. So we can discuss with you what you are looking to get out of the Thunder Torque Inserts , and help you out with the size. I have already spoken to Dawn and she will be looking forward to your call. Hope the snow will allow you to ride before long



Kelsey

 

Howdy Kelsey, thanx for your offer and my apologies for not getting back to you sooner. I've just submitted an order for the 258 W's. My pipe ends are 3 1/4" dia so my choice was clearly the wrong one. The 158's are already in place so switching them out will be a 2 min job. Thanx again H.

PS "Not much snow down but its -16 deg".

 

W158's are good for 3" pipes that still have the baffle in them. If the baffle is out, then the W158 will work, as will the W258. Usually there will be more power out of a W258, IF the baffles are removed.

The thing that makes the TTI's produce more power is they way they increase the exhaust gas velocity by reducing reversion. The W158's do an excellent job of reducing reversion on a 3" end opening if there are baffles still in the body. If it is just a shell, then the W258's will work better.

If you still have the baffles in, the W258 will also do a fine job, just might be unnecessary.

Final note, even with the baffles in, and with a W258, if will produce a slightly deeper tone than the W158 and sound volume will be a couple of decibels lower.

 

Thanx Kevin. This is good to know. Owing to the 3 1/4" size of my SE slipons plus the "flow through" characteristics of the large overlap SE 204's I'm putting in, it will be good to have both TTI sets on hand to experiment with. There are obviously an array of combinations I can try. The prices you guys supply the TTI's for and their ease of installation make experimenting and, dare I say tuning, using a couple of TTI sets + existing baffles, an economical and simple exercise indeed. "Great product" !

 

I have the W158's and I have a stock exhaust on my 2013 Iron. What will the W158's do for my bike with the baffles in and the baffles out? If I remove the baffles I plan on cutting them out just like your Youtube video on removing the baffles with catalytic converters.
I want to get a deeper sound from my exhaust and any performance gain will be nice. Will the W158's do this for me or should I go up a size or two?

 

Thanks for understanding our exact goal with the TTI's. They were born out of a frustration with the pricing of slip-ons and systems, & that they leave a lot of power on the table.


We just did some timed runs yesterday with cut-off stock pipes, baffles removed, and found that with the pipes cut, leaving no cone shape left on the end, that they produce a bit more power with the W258's than the W158's. They also sound a bit deeper.

Here are a couple of pics of what I'm explaining above-








We will have a new vid on this on youtube within a couple of days.



Below is the vid of one where the stock exhaust was cut, still leaving a bit of a cone shape on the tail end. If doing that, then the W158's are better.

Check what I'm referring to at the 43 second mark in the vid-

 

Thanks Kevin, I think for now I will stick with the W158's. I could always go up a size if I don't like the sound that they will produce. Now if only I could free up some time to get this mod done!

 

I ordered my 118Ws jus the other day for my 2013 Seventy-Two and BAM!! The parts arrived this morning! Thanks for the incredibly speedy shipping! I will get them in this weekend.

I have a 3" slip-on from American Custom Exhaust, which is basically a stock Harley muffler that's had it's internals stripped and their own interchangeable baffle system installed. It comes with a basic open baffle they call the Deep Growl, which pretty much just hugs the inner wall of the muffler. Their Mid-Growl and Quiet baffles just bolt in additionally with the "Deep-Growl".

My pipes are classic stock tapered so the opening is only 2" and with the permanent baffle I doubt it gets more than 2 1/2" wide inside which puts me in the 118 range. At least that is where I'm starting...

My question is about tuning....

I emailed Dawn this morning about this but I thought I'd ask here too....

The instruction sheet said to experiment with the angle for the TTI Ws for best sound and torque, but since I can tell it's going to be a PITA adjusting these once I get them in (due to the narrowness of the pipe mouth), I was hoping you could give me a best chance of success the first time.

My Ws' are shaped like a funnel cone. Will I get the most dramatic results with the depression scoop in the cone facing into the pipe (which I would assume because it will trap the air flow more) or facing out the end of the pipe which will essentially let the air flow around the outside more aerodynamically? Is one better for torque (in) and the other sound (out)? Or does the "In" create more torque AND "better" sound due to the more turbulent air??

I know I'm supposed to find my own happy place, but I really want to cheat and try to get it as close to "right" the first time.

Thanks!