Hey guys, thought I might ask you guys first before running to the stealer to get it checked but here's what's happening.
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The bike hesitates/chokes on 1st gear around 30mph, for about a second or two, once those rpm's are higher it cruises or accelerates without problems.. It has done it on 2nd also, as i think it's a matter o rpm's.
This doesn't happen when the bike is in neutral and I rev it purposely to hear or feel coughing or hesitation.
According to me this happens more when the low fuel light comes on, so I thought that the gforce when low on gas might somehow move the fuel in a way that the line goes dry for a split second? Very unlikely since I've never experienced this on other motorcycles.
If it sounds like a bad fuel pump, or some kind of electrical issue like a bad ecm I'm definitely taking it to the stealer since it's under warranty.
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Has rush slipons, xied's and just a k&n filter stock box.
By rule of elimination I might just take the Xieds's off to see if it does that again without them... but highly unlikely also.
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What do you guys think?

 

My 2012 has never done that. It's under warranty so take it in. And yes unhook the xieds and see what happens. Leave them off when you take it in. Just in case they to void the warranty.

 

If it only does it while you are low on gas, then what you described may very well be the issue.

I hate having to stop for gas, so many times I end up with only 1/3-1/2 a gallon in the tank when I go to fill up.

When I am that low, if I accelerate hard, or take a left sweeper, the gas is pushed away from the fuel pump pick-up and it cuts out. As soon as it cuts out, acceleration is decreased and the gas goes back to level and the engine comes right back online...all this happens in a matter of 1 second or less.

It will also do the same thing if you are low on fuel and going up a steep hill.

If the above is happening to you when you still have a gallon or so left in your tank, then I would suspect that there is a problem with the fuel pick-up in your tank.

 

Wow well... it could be that something is intermittently failing, hence it doesn't present 100% until it's run it's course and it fails completely BUT.......
I removed he Xied's and it performed without a problem. 0 hesitation and 0 cough.
Tried different rpm/gear combo and nothing.
It's still at low fuel, because I wanted to test by elimination under the same conditions. But by now it SHOULD have less fuel than when it happened last night since I haven't fueled up.
But, even acceleration was smoother this time without the Xied's. Could I be wrong? Do the Xied's have any play when you are actually accelerating or would that fall under ecm?
Very strange.. I will continue to run without until it happens again, then I'll know it's not the Xied's. But it's strange because I had just driven it and it did that.. then removed plugins and 0 problems.
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Now.. I can draw several inconclusive variables that determine symptoms, such as..
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1. fuel pump or some kind of fuel/ecm problem (how likely would this be though)
2. because I still run stock airbox, and Xied's are delivering more fuel, I need more AIR now, so by common sense I need a highflow airbox? (hmmm)
3. OR the bike has already a tune and the xied's might have over killed the delivery.... since the previous owner had already installed slip-ons. (Owned it for 3 weeks) then took it back to dealer. That's when I bought it because I saved some cash/fees and it was still a 2013. (So this would be the case if you guys tell me that this can happen when running rich????) I have no idea though.
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What else can I test myself before taking it to the dealer and waiting 4-5 days or more to get it back? I use it every day as it's my daily driver.. I can't afford to miss school dates so I'm trying to solve it myself :/

The questions is now.... running it with a k&n and stock box + slip-ons WIHTOUT xieds (assuming it has stock tune) would it be running way too lean?

 

Pull the seat off and see if it have an after market tuner on it. It could be under the side cover too. It sounds like a pick up problem, or the pump is intermit. See if your bike has the bad voltage regulator on it. go to the harley page and you put your vin# in and it will tell you. Mine had a bad one. They dont change them till you tell them to. I know that part sucks.

 

Well...I'd also add the fact you're over-revving the motor @ 30mph in 1st too. All the fuel's sloshing back & forth...is there a reason you're taking off like a 1/4 mile drag race?

 

No no, that's just part of dissecting the problem, I don't run around all day hitting 30-40 on first... but I narrowed the problem to where I know exactly at what rpm's it's doing it. What's funny to me it's that it's not hesitating or coughing on neutral.
And even with LESS gas a while ago I had no problems with the Xied's removed.

So... is it usually the case, that when a bike runs too RICH it hesitates/coughs? Assuming the dealer had already installed a tune, or something...

I'll go for a ride later on and see if it stills does that.

Update** Checked recall @Harley with 0 results.

 

Did this just start happening, or?

So you removed the XiED's and everything's good now? I can understand that if the Fuel/air ratio is WAY out of whack as in too much fuel, sure, hesitation and coughing will occur. Anyway, it's fairly easy to find out if you've been running rich...pull your plugs to have a looksie and shmell...

Check 'er out, swiped from:
http://www.cyclefish.com/forum/The-G...park_plugs.asp


Normal Spark Plug Wear
This plug has been running at the correct temperature in a "healthy" engine. Operating in such a desirable environment results in deposits that will be light tan or gray in color with most grades of commercial gasoline. Spark plugs demonstrating normal wear should still be changed at the manufacturers recommended intervals.






Carbon Fouled Spark Plug
Basically, soft, sooty carbon deposits, as shown , have a dry, black appearance. Often indicates bad ignition wires, an incorrect heat range spark plug or an over-rich air/fuel mixture caused by a clogged air cleaner filter element, or a faulty choke. Fuel injectors that malfunction can also lead to this condition.
Other less common causes include weak ignition system voltage or poor cylinder compression.





Pre-Ignition
As shown , this condition produces melting of the center electrode, and somewhat later, the ground electrode and insulator. Usually one or a combination of several engine operating conditions are the prime causes of pre-ignition. It may originate from glowing combustion chamber deposits, hot spots in the combustion chamber due to poor control of engine heat, cross-firing (electrical induction between spark plug wires), or the plug heat range is too high for the engine or its operating conditions.




Overheated
Note the dead white or gray insulator nose which appears "blistered." Electrode gap wear rate will be considerably in excess of that normally expected. This is often caused by overadvanced ignition timing, poor engine cooling, a very lean A/F mixture, a leaking intake manifold, or the use of a spark plug too hot for the application.






Mechanical Damage
Mechanical damage to the firing end, as shown, is caused by some foreign object in the combustion chamber or the plug nose is too long for the engine (incorrect plug selection). Since small objects can travel from one cylinder to another (because of valve overlap), the other cylinders should always be checked to prevent reoccurrence of damage.





Oiled Fouled
A spark plug shorted by excessive oil entering the combustion chamber is shown. This is often caused by piston rings or cylinder walls that are badly worn. Oil may also be pulled into the chamber because of excessive clearance in the valve stem guides, or badly worn valve stem seals.






Broken/Cracked Insulator
Typically caused by improper handling of the spark plug prior to or during installation. Broken insulators can also be caused by severe detonation. Major causes include a lean air/fuel mixtures, ignition timing advanced too far, and insufficient octane rating of the gasoline.

......................................

Anyway, if the removal of your XiED's seems to have eliminated your problem then perhaps yeah, you should continue to run your machine without them for a while and see if this problem stays away; if not, start looking into the other possibilities of fuel system and electrical.

BTW, the addition of slipons normally wouldn't require a reMAP at the dealer or elsewhere but you never know...as mentioned up this thread the bike could already have a tuner installed [wouldn't that be a bitch[!] - it's happened before to a gentleman right here on this forum - after installing his new tuner his bike was running even worse. Puzzled, he looked around and found the "other " tuner, LOL], and it could have had a pricey aftermarket intake on it that was removed and replaced back with the stock unit but unfortunately you'll probably never know unless you're a real forensic 'sumbitch or you speak with the previous/original owner to find out WTF.

Either way I hope it stays running well.

=8^)








=8^)

 

DrewBone thanks so much for your reply brother.. I thought no one had any suggestions after the thread went dead for a couple of days!! I really appreciate your time and experience since I'm really in the dark here since I have no idea if the previous owner downloaded a tune or what. (I checked and there seems to be no tunner attached) so maybe it was a download.
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Yes.. for some reason it runs normal without the xieds and it sucks because I just bought them and I really like them.
I will definitely be pulling the plugs to check color and wear...
How long do I have to run the bike for it to show signs on plugs?? 50-100 miles? less??
Thanks man, I'll keep you posted!!!

 

drove for about 20 miles today then fueled up at the shell with 93'.
Still 0 hesitation and 0 coughs after Xied removal :S
So my only guess is that.. bike has some sort of tune installed and wasn't flashed before changing owners.
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Who wants the Xied's now? definitely not putting them back on now :/