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sportster extra plate clutch kit writeup

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sportster extra plate clutch kit writeup

  #1  
Old 11-03-2013, 12:20 AM
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Default sportster extra plate clutch kit writeup

I installed my energy one btx-11 clutch tonight. Went for a quick ride to see how it felt. Amazing over the stock clutch. The clutch grabs and feels so much more firm with crisp shifts. The pull is barely different from stock. I can feel the power transfer is much better applied.
After seeing many threads on this topic and what is needed and how to do install I made this writeup so we have one here on HDF. I am not saying energy one is better than any other extra plate clutch kit. This is the brand I choose and why I mention that name. Choose your own brand as any extra plate clutch kit should apply to this writeup.I am not including pics of certain things because you shouldn't need a pic to drain fluid or other routine maintenance. If you do then please pay someone to do the job for you. HAVE A SERVICE MANUAL BEFORE YOU ATTEMPT! You will need torque specs and will help with other aspects of removal and install. I am posting this a reference guide and an idea of what you need and will see doing the extra plate clutch kit. The manual is a little over complicated in this section and hope this simplifies what you will need and do.
Time: 2-3 hours
Tools: nothing special besides compressor tool and torque wrenches (inch and ft lb)
parts list: primary cover gasket, 2 qts preferred primary fluid non synthetic( I used formula+),suggested: retaining ring for diaphragm spring # 21 in my 07 diagram,shifter shaft seal,quad ring,oring for clutch cable,drain plug oring,primary inspection cover gasket
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don't forget threadlock and o ring lube
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First step is to drain primary fluid. Relieve tension off chain by turning adj down. You can try to keep jamb nut as close to where it was but I advise you to inspect tension later.
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pulled forward controls and shift linkage easier access
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Check your stack height to be sure it is in spec. spec in service manual.
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Soak plates in your choice of fluid for at least 20 min prior to installation. I used a new gallon bucket.
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Pull boot on clutch cable and loosen jamb nut and adj to the top
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clutch lever with no tension
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remove derby cover, quad ring, spring and retainer nut. Turn adj screw in clutch clockwise untill ramp comes out.
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ramp assembly. Remove cable from hook. Here you can decide to pull the cable or leave it in primary cover.
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primary removed. Remove the primary cover screws. Some years Have longer bolts in some locations. mine were all the same. Pay attention to location if your lengths are different.
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Thread the compressor onto the adj screw. Thread all the way. Screw will turn and needs slight pressure to stay in place. A little oil on the threads will help but I used a small flathead with a little elec tape on tip. Only compress as far as needed to remove retaining spring. It is kind of a bastard to remove. It will come out fairly easy once compressed enough. If it is fighting you, compress a little more going in 1/4 turn increments.
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Pull the whole clutch pack assembly. A few plates may stay in basket. Carefully remove them. Unthread compressor from assembly and remove the diaphragm spring from the pressure plate. Start putting new plates in basket. Begin with a friction and end with a friction.
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stock riveted plate looked fine. This is the weak point in the stock clutch. You can tell once removed how poor of a design it really is.
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Pressure plate with new diaphragm spring. Notice the placement of the new diaphragm spring. Align it appropriately so it fits over the prongs of the clutch hub as pictured below.
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Before putting compressor tool back on clutch assembly with new diaphragm spring, make sure you put spring seat on top of spring. Thread compressor tool onto assembly(don't start compressing yet, just tight enough to hold in place)then place assembly into the clutch basket. Start compressing spring. It took more than I thought it would so don't be afraid the give yourself a little play to get spring seat in far enough to install retaining ring. I fought with this too long. The retaining ring will fight you. hard to hold with snap ring pliers. This is why I think they advise a new retaining ring. When you are trying to install be aware that you are holding all this at once and installing retaining ring. Your knee or foot, or helper if you have one can assist holding this up and in place while you get retaining ring seated. Once retaining ring is in place inside hub prongs you can remove compressor tool. Now you can get the primary cover and remaining components installed. Be aware that you will hold the chain up when putting primary cover on and use caution with gasket doing this. A little gasket tack here may help hold it in place while doing so. Pay attention to primary tightening sequence in manual. There is a sequence procedure!!!!
I advise to double check chain tension once you have reinstalled everything and have adjusted clutch and filled with fluid . After that is done you should be ready to ride and test your work.This writeup should work for any brand extra plate kit. Consult your instructions or manufacturer about fluids to use. Otherwise all should be the same.

Hints and Tips: Only need to soak friction discs. I use a little black rtv on the quad ring to hold it. A smidge on top, bottom, left and right. Like a bb size. I wipe the excess off outside and inside of groove and then quad ring stays put without any excess rtv getting all over. Use a lift if possible. I didn't though I have one. Helps to keep level at all times as bike can be a little unstable with a 2x6 under jiffy stand. Torque everything according to spec. This way no leaks or warpage of any component should occur.

If I am missing anything or need to edit something let me know. Hope this helps you start your extra plate kit install a little better than going at it blindly.
 

Last edited by slyedog; 11-04-2013 at 11:33 PM. Reason: make a good reference writeup
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  #2  
Old 11-03-2013, 12:56 AM
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Great stuff, I'm considering one in the Spring.
 
  #3  
Old 11-03-2013, 01:40 AM
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Subscribed. Thank you!!!
 
  #4  
Old 11-03-2013, 10:10 AM
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Do you have a shot of the primary cover with cable? Did you disconnect the clutch cable? So far, nice write up. Good job.

John
 
  #5  
Old 11-03-2013, 10:29 AM
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I pulled the whole cable as I had new o ring already. This really isn't a writeup yet. Was looking for feedback as to make it one or not. For some reason the ? Mark didn't show up in thread title. I will take time to go detailed and make this a writeup when I can. Right now I was just showing pics of the job.
 
  #6  
Old 11-03-2013, 10:34 AM
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Nice job. I have been thinking about having this done over the winter months before I start having issues.

How much time did it take you to do the install yourself?
 
  #7  
Old 11-03-2013, 10:56 AM
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I bought one for my 1250 project, is it a good idea to soak the clutches before you install them?
 
  #8  
Old 11-03-2013, 12:03 PM
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Put a Barnett plate set in mine this summer, at 30,000+ was worried about the rivets. They were a little loose, don't know how long they'd last in that condition. The Barnett pack has a better feel, too. Not hard to do, but you sure need a spring compressor.

Got a little help from the grandson...

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  #9  
Old 11-03-2013, 12:05 PM
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Originally Posted by BluBeaSSt View Post
I bought one for my 1250 project, is it a good idea to soak the clutches before you install them?
The instructions with my Barnett set said to, so I did, soaked them overnight.
 
  #10  
Old 11-03-2013, 12:34 PM
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I am editing this as time allows. So bear with me as I edit and complete writeup.
 

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