vibration from 2500-2800 rpm
 

Guys is it normal to have vibration from 2500-2800rpm ??? It is very smooth in other rpm ranges but if I cruise in that range my hands go to sleep.... I drove my buddy's 2010 883 and his is super smooth through out the ranges.... sorry ya mine is a 2014 iron with 1200 conversion and SE slip ons....

Anyone please ????

I have 03 1200c. My hand go to sleep at exactly 70 mph. Anything under is smooth...75-80 is smooooooth. 68-71 sux!

I get a lot of vibration on my 2014 Forty Eight around 2700 to 2800 RPM that I didn't have on my 2007 XL1200r. Not sure if it is a 2014 trait or not. Have to take the bike in for the overdue 1000 mile service and will ask them about it. Annoying, but I shift around 3400 RPM between gears and try to avoid that RPM range. As stated, never had that vibration like that on the 2007.

Anyone else with a 2014 experiencing this? Dunno.

Ya mine is due soon for the 1000 miles service....let me know what they tell you about the vib and ill let you know too on my side.....

2014 48 same vibe here and my brother in law's same bike same vibe got to be a 2014 thing

Yes, there is an RPM spot, where the bike seems to vibrate more than normal.
I would not worry, at all.

Ok thanks a lot guys, it helps knowing im not the odd man out...lol

It smooths out with miles. At 5,000 it will be less, at 10,000 less yet and at 20,000 it will be real smooth.

All the more reason to go ride.

When I bought my Iron last summer it had a very distinct vibration between 55-60 MPH ( no tach but I think that's around 3200 rpm). Between breaking in and a bar change, I no longer notice it. It was so bad at first, that I couldn't use my mirrors. But now it seems to be completely gone.

I have a 2014 Iron 883, and mine has a vibration just under 3000 Rpm under acceleration. It's not that bad, but it is noticeable. I think it has to do with the rubber engine mounts on the 2014's and harmonics. I actually use it shift point reminder during break in......LOL!

i have a 2014 iron 883 and this is my first bike. Is it bad to be at 3rd gear on 50 mph 4th gear 60mph? i'am new to this motorcycle world and still learning how to ride just want to make sure that i don't cause any damage to the engine.

if you have vibrations your in the wrong gear.

Cruising at less than 3000rpm will often result in vibration / lugging. Plus, the throttle is much more responsive at 3500-5000 than it is at 2500 so if you suddenly find yourself needing to giddy up in a hurry, you will have a lot better luck if you are cruising above 3000 than if you are below 3000. For those reasons I never cruise at less than 3000.

Bull. (At least, as far as lugging is concerned. All engines have some harmonic points that cause extra vibration, but that's not the same as lugging.)

When I'm just puttering about I upshift at 3,000 RPM and that doesn't lug a damn thing.

If it was a 100 degree day and I was going up a 10% grade with a 150 pound passenger on the back I might want to keep the revs above 3,000, but for just cruising on level ground she'll be just fine even at 2,300 RPM.

Prove it.

It's mostly a matter of opinion, but if you are up shifting at 3000 rpm, you are really riding a sportster the wrong way. You haven't even begun to enter the engine's sweet spot, you are skipping all of the actual HP you paid for, your bike will be vibrating a lot more than it needs to, you will be stressing out the engine, your lack of giddy up and lack of opportunity to use engine braking are tremendous. Even HD's very conservative suggestions of when to shift gears far exceeds cruising around 2000-2200 rpm if you are up shifting at 3000. Other than possibly squeeking out another MPG out of your tank I can't think of a single decent reason to ride like that (and I've read somewhere a sporty engine gets the best fuel economy in the 3000s anyhow).

Have fun with that!

2300 RPM? Not on any Sportster I ever owned.

I have. Again and again and again.

But I'll post the video of perfectly fine up-shifts at 3,000 RPM for a third or fourth time.


The audio is clear that there's no lugging, and you can easily see the RPM dropping to 2,200-2,300 after each shift. The bike does just fine.

Sportys do just fine cruising at 2300 rpm. They just do better cruising around 3500 rpm:icon_eddie:

I don't think I've ever had my Sporty over 3700RPM... that too high? I guess I don't know the limit until I start screwing the engine up. I just broke the habit of shifting at ~3k like I was told to for the first 500 miles.

I cruise around 2500-2700. She vibrated a lot with the stock exhaust, the D&D Bobcat exhaust I got really smoothed everything out. My forty eight makes a lot of weird noises, most of them area normal. I'll never forget the first time i heard the angry evil sewing machine inside the engine.

The rev limiter is designed so you won't over rev the motor. The dealer Stage one download raises the rpm redline by a 1000 rpm.

Go ahead and twist that throttle some.:icon_smash:

Okay thanks Guzzi, I wasn't sure what the actual limits were. That makes me feel better.

I bought my Iron new. At 3400 RPM to 4000,it had a bad vibration in the pegs and bars. It was really disappointing. After 4000 miles it started to settle in and get much better. I just did the 1200 conversion And Now its back. But after 500 miles its going away again. Plus the bike is so much more fun to ride.

Oh, I absolutely agree when the road in front of you is clear. :icon_mrgreen:

But when you're in traffic and you're just running lazily in the flow that's a different scenario.

Couldn't disagree more. When I'm in traffic I cruise as close to 4000 as possible.

1. That makes the bike louder and more noticeable to surrounding traffic.

2. You have almost twice as much available HP if you need to accelerate out of a tricky situation.

3. You can use engine breaking for extra stopping power if necessary by down shifting.

This is a joke post, right? Dear god let this be a joke.

1) Don't be that jackass intentionally revving just to make the bike louder. You just make everyone around you angry. All you're doing is playing into the South Park caricature of a Harley owner and further cementing the average driver's negative opinion of motorcyclists.

2) There is this thing called a "transmission" on these bikes. It allows you to choose several different gears when you need them. You may not have noticed, but you are, in fact, allowed to shift down to a lower gear even if you've already shifted into a higher gear. For example, if you need to accelerate, you can swiftly downshift for added power. If you are frequently in situations where the microseconds it takes to downshift are too much of a delay for your "safety" then you need to take a serious look at your reckless riding style.

3) Engine braking does not give you "added stopping power." The maximum stopping power is determined by the amount of grip available to the tire. This grip amount is easily exceeded by the rear brake alone. Using engine braking will not make you stop faster than simply using the brakes alone. Engine braking is useful to control speed (and prevent brake overheating) when going down long downhill sections, when coasting lazily to a stop, or when someone in front of you slows slightly and you just need to bleed a few miles per hour with no particular rush. It is NOT an appropriate method to stop quickly in an emergency and it actually reduces your ability to effectively modulate rear-wheel braking force to avoid lock-up.

Bottom line: I've been riding for damn near twenty years now. I've seen more than my share of bad/dangerous driving from cars in my commuting in downtown Seattle and in my pleasure riding in the country. I've heard your "points" from young riders before. They were wrong then and they're still wrong now.

Zen,

1. I couldn't care less about perpetuating any stereotype about loud/obnoxious Harley riders. When I look around on the road, whether in my car or on the bike, 3 out of 4 drivers it seems are either talking or texting on their phone while driving. The roads have never been less safe for motorcycles than they are now with how distracted the average driver is. It's certainly not the be all end all, and it's not a crutch to be relied upon, but it does help, and I don't give a rats ass what anyone thinks about my bike being loud as they peruse their facebook feed while whipping down a 40mph road at 50mph in rush hour traffic.

2. I must have given you the impression I am regularly putting myself in situations where milliseconds matter. Far from it. I am actually a very defensive/conservative rider. But let's be real. A stock 1200cc sporty has perhaps about 20 available HP and 30-40 lb ft. of torque at 2300 rpm if you look at the average Dyno chart. At 4300 rpm, that number is closer 60 HP and 50-60 lb ft of torque. You honestly believe if it would take you "microseconds" to read an emergency situation, make the mental connection of what you need to do, and then physically downshift two gears in order to be where you have legitimate power available to you? My guess is that for everyone other than professional drivers and athletes whose reaction times are wired at otherworldly levels, that is at least a half second to full second process. I hope to never find myself in a situation where every half second counts, but I would like to be as prepared as possible if I do.

3. You are absolutely right. I am wrong.

With all due respect, I couldn't care less that you've been riding for twenty years so don't even bother trying to old time me. Four of the 12 students in my MSF class were all 50-60 year old guys who had been riding for 20 years and were only there because they were never properly licensed and had gotten pulled over by the cops and told they needed to get a license. Every single one of them failed the driving test miserably. Most of them couldn't have done the figure 8 portion of the test if you made the box the size of a football field.

I have been riding for 56 years and I say you are wrong too.

I'm getting up there to and I agree with you!


SR

I started a thread similar to this months ago concerning my 2014 XL1200CP's vibration that peaked around 2650 RPM. It was not lugging the engine. The vibration was there in all gears whether accelerating or decelerating.


I decided to live with it. I also suffered numbness in the hands.


I discovered something yesterday that probably everyone else in the world already knew but me. I had the mini-apes set such that I had to really stretch to reach the grips. What was happening was that my fingertips were doing most of the gripping.


If I leaned forward so that my palms were actually resting the grips the numbness was nearly gone. Duh!


So yesterday evening I rotated by mini's back so that it fit my reach more naturally. Numbness problem mostly alleviated.


But the unexpected consequence was that the vibration felt around 2650 RPM was also mostly gone.


I've always believed that the handlebars were just a large tuning fork that had a natural resonant frequency. In this case: 2650 RPM.


By tilting them back, they would still have the same resonant frequency, but now the frame/fork/riser system was supplying the input energy from a different angle. By pure coincidence this reduced the felt vibration.


It is still there to be sure. But before it was so intense that I was not comfortable riding with it in that RPM range. Now as I ride through 2550-2800 I only notice a slight increase in felt vibration.


As always, YMMV.


DON

I have been riding for 40+ years and I say you all need a Midol...

Do they work for you??

yes they do...every time my wife takes one (or 2) I find she is less whiny and everyone gets along better..