Before dropping another $500 on wideband sensors for my power vision system I was wondering if there is any feedback on another system would be more useful? I’m not looking for ultimate power, I need drivability. My Pv-1 has a huge hole where the bike cuts out part throttle, lower 1/3 RPM range. Makes for unpleasant cruising and commuting.

 

Take this for what it's worth.

Regardless of what the internet salesman tells you. Find a tuner that can tune the bike in your area. I do this for a living and a PV with or without Wide Bands is Not the solution. Getting a proper tune for your bike is. A person who knows how to do it should be able to use the PV and do it.

The only other choice would be for you to spend the time to learn about tuning and do it yourself.

 

I’m waiting on a reply from the dealer here to see if they can dyno tune. If not I’m out of luck unless I ship it to the mainland. You think the widebands won’t really help my issues? If not I won’t spend the money on them. Do you think narrowband tuning the current tune could help? Would repeated basic autotune sessions make a difference? I mean I could ride around like a hooligan, full throttle and revving all the time. The bike runs great like that! Lol.

 

All depends on your combination of parts and your starting calibration.

 

Hello, before drawing any conclusions or making recommendations we first need to know more about your bike; the modifications you made to it, the map you are running and any tuning or Auto Tune sessions you have performed. From your description that the bike is cutting out that is not normal, the first thing I would check would be the diagnostic trouble codes which can be done with your Power Vision, your description that the bike runs great under higher loads and upper RPM's but cuts out at light load would point me towards the possibility of improper O2 sensor installation (the O2's are mixed up front to rear), this will show up in the DTC's O2 lean & rich codes. Hope this info helps and if you need any additional assistance you are welcome to contact us.

**UPDATE**
I looked at some of your other posts where you noted more info about your bike & modification and seen that you purchased the Power Vision PV-1 from Fuel Moto, if you would like to go ahead and use the Fuel Map form on our website https://www.fuelmotousa.com/p-33537 we can take a look at your map (whether it is our or Dynojet's) and make some revisions for you to try, if you need any help along the way all channels are open.

 

The O2 sensors, if reversed, will tune OUT a bike as it runs.
If the bike ran/runs better after loading the canned calibration then runs worse over time, that points to wrong sensor installation.

Rule of thumb: The BLACK O2 sensor connector and wire under the right side cover MUST to go into the rear exhaust pipe.

Check it very closely to assure they are in the correct cylinder and not reversed.

Bob

 

Thanks for the reply. I have spoke with someone at your company, I have even ordered the wideband kit. Here’s some background info. The bike was purchased recently with all the parts already installed. It is a 2006 Softail Deluxe, Sampson true duals with baffled longtails, s&s 585 gear drive cams, and a k&n on the stock base. The previous owner stated that after trying several maps and speaking with dynojet they recommended he got the autotune wideband kit to sort out the issues. The current map has had a couple basic autotune passes on it, it’s not the 2006 map, looks like it’s from a 2007 (I know wrong bike, wrong motor). Without any pre made maps with a cam mod I cannot get anything close to start with. According to someone at your company there are no certified dyno tuners in Hawai‘i. I will attempt to ride the bike over the next couple days and try to ride in the zone where it cuts out to see if it’s momentary or it’s a prolonged situation if I stay right at that point. Instinct makes me pull in the clutch, rev, and get past it or just throttle around/through it. I’ve only put about 20 miles on it since the purchase a month ago as my work schedule rarely allows time to ride so I really don’t know too much about it. I know it starts/idles/runs fine other then that spot and decel popping. It doesn’t ping or misfire, no knocks, doesn’t feel obviously slow or sluggish. There’s 8 maps on the pv-1 I know at least 2 are labels 2006 but with minimal mods. 3 are self labeled so I assume those are maps with the basic tune run, 3 are labeled 2007 or 2007-2010. I will try to switch between those and see what or if anything happens. I have the wideband kit sitting on my desk still in the shipping wrapping. I’ve been told that it won’t help if I don’t have a close map, I was planning on sending it back if that’s the case and maybe put that money into shipping the bike to the states for someone to dyno tune it. Let me know your thoughts

 

I’ve also been told by Fuel Moto the bike doesn’t have stock o2 sensors, there are bungs/caps on the Sampson’s and I have the wideband kit but haven’t installed it because I’ve been told I need a correct map in the first place or it won’t have enough leeway to tune it properly.

 

Bob

Wouldn't the same thing happen if the wiring for the injectors were reversed?

Don't ask me how I know this.

 

Thank you for the information about your bike. You are correct, your 2006 Softail does not have factory O2 sensors, with the AT-100 kit you will add the bungs to your exhaust and the widebands will be used for data collection and tune correction using the Auto Tune Pro application, this is a very straight forward process. Your 88" bike with a bolt in cam should tune in fairly easy, you will need a good base map to start with. We dont know what is in there so we should start fresh (you can save your current maps as well) For a new map you can use the Fuel Map Request from on our website and we will get you a map to get started. We can also provide instructions as well as a video of the recommended tuning process and also assist in reviewing your log data which will give us a firsthand data of how your bike is running including AF from the wideband sensors. I would also check the cranking compression front/rear to make sure the cams are timed properly.