HELP! Won't Start?
 

I have a 2007 Electra Guide Classic. 38,000 miles. It's been the best bike I've ever owned and I take very good care of it.
Yesterday, I fired her up and took a nice ride, came home and left her in the driveway, thinking I'd go ride again soon. However, when I went back out, she wouldn't start.
I pulled the plugs and they are fine. I pulled the battery and charged it and it has a full charge. The lights and radio all work, but when I press the starter button, it just groans/whines. It's not trying to turn over.
Am I looking at a new starter?
Advice is really appreciated. I need to know whether to have the shop come get it or not. The weather is too perfect for riding here in Florida to have it sitting.

Take the battery out and have it load tested. Then check the charging system after you get a good battery. A surface charge will show a good charge until you hit it with a load. (cranking)

Batman

Try to start it by pulling the clutch lever in. Mine would not start, then I pulled in the clutch and wala it started. Found the neutral switch on the transmission was full of crud.

If there's no easy way to load test the battery, you could jump start it from a car. Just don't have the car running when trying that. I don't know if this is necessarily "good" for the bike or not, but I've done it many times in the past with no issues. If it's not the battery, sure sounds like it could be a starter issue.

Thanks...
 

I've had the battery out and it has a full charge. I am going to go have it load tested now. I always start mine in neutral and the clutch in, so that's not it.

I'll let you know if it's the battery.

The groaning/ whining is not enough power to the starter

STOP !!!!

Whining is the sound of the starter motor windings burning= $$$


the battery needs load tested ( after charging with a charger, not a tender)- IF if checks out good ( and while it is out) check the battery cables for clean and tight at BOTH ends...loosen, clean, tighten.
any signs of corrosion ( white powder coming out the ends of the cables) replace at auto parts store for $12


jumping with your car is a bad idea- if/when you get the bike started IF the battery or cables are bad you can damage your charging system and all of a sudden you have a $600 problem.



I posted last year on a neighbor who spent over $1300 at the dealer chasing down an electrical problem- they replaced the stator twice and the VR twice and THREE batteries- the fault was a bad battery cable which would alternately go open or offer a huge resistance.
Finding the problem took me minutes and the new cable was $12

http://i367.photobucket.com/albums/o...psa17b4010.jpg


Welcome to the forums

Mike

Charge and load test at Auto Zone is complete and it's a good battery. 86% charged and holding a load.
Next up is to try and determine if there is corrosion inside the battery cables. Ends look good. I keep them clean and coated, but I live on the beach in Florida and they are originals, so maybe that is it. Thanks, mkguitar, for your input.

good.
Here is a general overview for troubleshooters

The starter system has 2 circuits.

the first is the Primary Circuit low current and is the kill switch, starter button, starter relay and associated wiring- depending on model and year may also involve a clutch/tranny or even a kickstand switch.
The primary circuit supplies power to the solenoid switch at the starter via a green wire.
Pulling the green wire off the solenoid allows to test for power there when pressing teh button- if so, then the primary circuit is good.
( if not- then the bike can be started by making a jumper wire with a terminal on one end and attaching that to the solenoid- bike in neutral !...touch the other end to the battery +)


the starter Secondary Circuit is high current

the solenoid is a big switch, hefty enough to supply power to the starter.
the battery cable attaches here and the power should pass thru the solenoid to the starter motor.

low battery can damage the solenoid switch contacts and switch plate by arcing and pitting or by carbon, or by chattering- the solenoid will make a clicking sound which can be rapid or slow
a strong battery with good cables won't do that.
solenoids are so simple that they are easy to fix- if you have done a chevy, you can do a Harley ( and parts can be sourced from HD or Toyota- the forum has info on this)
the solenoid will also push a gear into contact with the clutch basket to eventually turn over the motor

the starter motor can fail- but it is a simple mechanism with wear parts ( bearings and brushes) and a commutator which sometime needs cleaning or grooves serviced with a hacksaw blade.
as long as the winding are good they are an easy fix.

Just an overview for you or the next guy.

It isn;t rocket science - I bet you already know that.



The late models are programmed to turn over a couple of times before firing to get some momentum

on my old high compression evo ( starter rebuilt 3 times), I flick the starter button to get the piston off of top-dead-center ( highest compression) then press and hold to start.

a motor always stops turning at TDC when switched off

mike

try tighting the starter mounting bolts the olny ground the starter has is being held tigh against the primary case if it is loose a little in will lose ground

Did you try again after removing and installing the battery? May be just a bad connection of the cable to the battery.