I am interested in seeing which has the higher torque just above idle, say 1200 RPM, comparing a stage III 103 and a stock 110.
I'm interested in just above idle as this is where 'real world' torque is felt in day to day riding, not at 3000RPM...
Anyone have dyno sheets showing either?
I'd expect the 110 to be the torque monster at that RPM.

 

I only hit 1200rpm's in first gear. When I shift up a gear, I'm starting at 2500rpm's +. Wouldn't a more usable torque/HP power band start there? For me it does, that's why my TW-222's suit me well. Just sayin'

Now that you got me thinking a bit, I shift between 3200 and 4500, and cruise around 3000 rpm's, mostly 3000-3300

 

I'd shift up at around 1500 - 2000 RPM so maybe that's the best place to look?

 

clack: Are you serious? You're looking for the "torque monster", in terms of engine displacement, that is going to give you everything you want that you're not getting in your 103" in that RPM range?

You're so far off the beam that I don't know how anyone here is going to be able to say anything that will bring you back closer to the center where common sense and sound judgement will clear your vision. As I remember, one of your not too distant posts suggested pretty strongly that you were likely to cash out on your 401K retirement to upgrade your engine from 103" to a 110" now that Harley has come out with a kit that doesn't require splitting the case for that size of piston. I say do it....

But to continue to look for support for doing something so foolish should be embarrassing to you. If you're THAT sold on needing/wanting an upgrade of that nature that won't EVER come close to showing it's full potential in the RPM ranges in which you ride and shift, then simply do it. But for God's sake if not for your own, don't talk about it. Just do it. Anything beyond that is just mental masturbation on your part.

Someone or something needs to directly address what seems to be pretty critical bipolar behavior on your part, and I have done so at the risk of being heavily flamed. Bring it.

Good luck with your project. Do it, and come back and tell us that we all too should mortgage our future security for a stronger motorcycle engine that flat *** "delivers" between 1500 and 2000 RPM's.

 

Your honesty is refreshing!

 

Though I don't know you, and as such don't really care what you do, I would hope so. Seriously. These beautiful machines that we place between our legs are nothing more than depreciating assets made for the good times. I'm as OCD about them/mine as anyone I know. But I constantly have to remind myself of that fact....and I do. Not all of us will, but doing so on a daily, weekly, monthly basis keeps them in their proper place.

If you're looking for torque in the low RPM range, a poster suggested the TW-222. I too have experience with those, and the suggestion was spot on, and will save you lots of $$ if you're not hell bent on liquidating your future. They're torque monsters from 2500 up to 4000 RPM, and with the right breather and exhaust, as well as a really good tune with the right tuner, they'll run right next to any 110" that I've ever encountered as long as it too hasn't been pushed too far past stock levels. However, there's nothing that I know of that'll produce impressive torque at levels between 1200-1500 rpm. No Harley motor produces enough power at those levels to impress the hardest among us. You want to see your bike "jump", move your riding and shifting from 1200-2000 RPM to 2800-3200 RPM. Your bike CAN handle it whether you can or not, and if you feel you want more from that place, then mind those that have suggested really good cams before convincing yourself that a 110" is the answer to your quandary.....if you're even in one.

 

There is a reason that dyno charts start with a roll-on at 2500 rpms and stops at 5500 rpms- that is the effective power range of our motors.

Mike

 

Clack I can tell you from experience because I've seen it with my own eyes...your 2014 Limited properly tuned will blow your mind. Don't waste money on a deadbeat 110 because ITS BIGGER. The 110 is a flat out dog and trouble ridden. If you haven't done a full Stage 1 and a full tune I'd suggest doing that first. I can assure you it'll be an eye opener. And as suggested early, stop lugging your bike. Wind her out to 3500-4000 RPM's every now and again and it'll perform the way it should.

2010 Limited with some stuff

 

Although I've probably annoyed a few people like gipper with all my posts I'm glad I have - to see others' perspectives on my thoughts.
I am now seriously reconsidering my initial thoughts on the value of upgrading to 110... I think I might have seen the light!
I'll save some money too!

 

Your cheapest and most effective power increase is your right wrist.