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Time Required to Remove & Replace Fork Tubes

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  #1  
Old 03-04-2016, 10:28 AM
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Default Time Required to Remove & Replace Fork Tubes

Hey folks, in the next few days I'll be installing Progressive Mono-tubes on my 2000 FLHTCUI Ultra and I'm wondering how much time I should set aside for the task, soup to nuts.

I'm not looking for how fast YOU can do it, I'd like to know how much time a person who's following the shop manual step by step should set aside for the task.

I'm a contractor and time is tight, so I need to build into my schedule enough time to get the task done, but I don't want to go down the path of "a full day" off the books unless I really need it (which, frankly, I suspect I will, but who knows? Maybe it's easier than I think.

Thanks all!
 
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Old 03-04-2016, 10:41 AM
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I had never done the swap before. I do own a stand, vise, work bench plus had bought the fluids, seals and proper wrench to remove the forks....
The first time I did the install with (2) clips, it took me almost 4 hours, as I took my time. Once I realized I hated to stiffness of the (2) clips, I took the faring back off, removed the forks again and removed one clip. Did it the second time in under two hours. I am very happy with the monotubes as they match my adjustable rear shocks nicely. Good luck.
 
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Old 03-04-2016, 10:47 AM
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I couldn't have asked for a better reply; that's exactly what I needed to hear. Thanks!

Now... about that proper wrench??? lol... (does it ever end, buying a special tool for Harleys?) Can you tell me more about this wrench and any other gotchas I might run into? I really appreciate it.

I just replaced the air shocks with Progressive 444s and that improvement alone made a huge difference in how the bike handles, even though I've not jet set the pre-load properly (just set it for mid-point for now). Having the 444s in place makes it obvious how much room for improvement there is in the front end.

I also started to install a Bagger Brace yesterday, but my cross member was so bent that I needed to order the straightening tool (yep, another custom tool) from True Track. I didn't feel comfortable prying much on against the oil pan.
 
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Old 03-04-2016, 10:52 AM
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1 3/8" box end wrench for fork cap nuts. An open end wrench probably won't work. They also make special sockets for these nuts.... look like an oil filter removal tool.
 
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Old 03-04-2016, 10:53 AM
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There are plenty of you tube videos showing how to do the swap. I watched it a couple of times and truly helped.
 
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  #6  
Old 03-04-2016, 10:55 AM
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GOD I love this place. If only I could contribute more instead of being the one always asking questions. When I get more experience on this machine, I'll be able to start giving back.

Thanks man!
 
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Old 03-04-2016, 12:43 PM
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I did mine to powder coat the lower legs. Taken them off was about 2 hours and putting back on seemed like 20 mins but was more like an hour. I cut an 1 1/2 inch piece of PVC pipe down the length of it and slid it over the tubes to pound the seals back in.
 
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Old 03-04-2016, 01:03 PM
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I used the wrench that came in my roll up toolkit. Caps are not very tight and this wrench works great.
 
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Old 03-04-2016, 01:57 PM
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I needed a long allen socket to get at the bolt (14) on the bottom of the slider on a 2012 Limited. Also need an impact to loosen that bolt, my Dewalt 18V worked great.

I used a Clamp to help compress the fork tube into the slider to get 25 started back in the tube. When you have the fork tube in the slider and ready to put 25 back on fork tube, screw 24 into 25. put every thing in the clamp and compress it slightly and turn 25 into the fork tube, 24 will unscrew and hold everything in place while 25 goes into the fork tube, a few threads will hold it and you can take it out of the clamp. just a easy way to do it when working alone
Good Luck
Bill

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Old 03-04-2016, 02:03 PM
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I got my 1 3/8 box wrench under the switch cover just by removing the two outside screws and wiggling the wrench in there. Another tip, I didn't have that big *** clamp Vernal has so I took my floor jack, run it under my reloading bench and jacked it up slowly until I could compress the spring/cap enough to get it started. Then slid it into the triple tree claim to tighten it the slid the forks back up and put the top cap on.
 


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