2011 Ultra with 81,000+ miles and stock HD compensator. I've had symptoms of a worm out compensator for awhile. The typical "clunk" when you start or stop the bike. But what was really starting to bother me was a vibration that my hands was picking up. Finally got some time (and a nice day) and started the repair today. Replacing with the SE compensator (42200064A) and a Baker Attitude Adjuster. I'm frugal, hence the reason for going with the SE Compensator (1/2 the price) instead of the Baker. I've read some people have issues with the automatic primary chain tensioner. My primary chain did not seem overly tight. You can see the wear in the nylon shoe.

 

Mine looked ALMOST that bad after only 36K miles. Not quite, but close. I'd say you squeezed all the juice out of the lemon that you possibly could.

 

Is that pretty much the way it came out? Most compensators in that vintage show an accumulation of red powder generated by poor lubrication, did you clean that off before taking the pictures? The wear on the spokes of the sprocket is surprising and worrying. What lube were you using in the primary?

 

I did wipe down the parts since they were oily. There was some "red powder", but it seemed to be on the sliding cam. If you look closely at the picture, you can still see some of it around the spline area. The primary fluid I am using is:
Castrol GTX 10W-40
API Service SN, SM, SL, SJ
NON energy conserving
5 Quart jug, $16.47 Walmart

 

Thanks for the pics .. Gives a good idea what a worn out compensator looks like, for those that unbutton the primary and have a look in there ,, Cheers

 

I pull the cover every 7k to inspect my Baker tensioner. When I start getting the vibration and pronounced clunk, the baker compensator is going in there. Hell, I drop more $ for less importance and for $499 for the baker, its a done deal.

 

Thanks for the information. VERY complete, wish everyone would supply such complete info.

 

Timing - I just sent Mark from Baker an email last night asking him a few questions about these...

 

Did I just read that right? 10w-40 motor oil in your primary?

 

That's quite some wear there. IMHO, you're using the wrong oil. Castro 10w40 is great oil - for engines. With an engine you need an oil with a high shear resistance. Think about a rod bearing, the surface are passing each other in the opposite direction. In a gear box, you need an oil with a high compression resistance, the teeth and chain rollers are trying to squish the oil out.

My suggestion, not that you asked for it, is to install a new comp and run gear oil in the primary, not motor oil.