My neighbor has had a slow crank and frequent kickbacks which he blamed on the starter so he replaced it (starter had to be repaired/replaced anyway as the kickbacks ruined the starter clutch). That didn't solve the problem so he replaced the battery. That hasn't solved the problem either.

We were on a ride and when he shut the bike off and tried to restart it, it would not crank all the way around and start the engine. It just got stuck, like a low battery.

I've read that the compensator could cause an issue like this, but I just don't see how a worn compensator could cause symptoms like a low battery or like very high compression.

How can a worn/bad compensator cause a starting problem?

2008 Ultra, 35,000 miles

 

could be bad battery cables...


long story short, my neighbor spent over $1300 at the dealer, stators, regulators, batteries...here's the fault I found it in 10 minutes:




$12 fix

that's the negative cable it was rotted where is attaches to the frame.

charge battery with charger ( not a "tender"), load test at autozone.
check cables
starter gets it's ground through the mounting bolts, crack them and retighten to ensure good connection.

once the starter is spinning, then you can look at other problems.

the 103's all have compression releases which really help the starter- I don't know about the 08, but the 09 has all the wiring in place- the ecm has to be enabled and comp releases added to the heads.

manual comp releases are also available - not expensive, but the heads have to come off for machining.


My evo FXRp is high compression and a cam, here how I start it...I flick the starter button...this either pushes the piston over top dead center OR the piston rebounds backwards down the bore. either way the motor is no longer stuck on the compression stroke- and the motor has a chance the get moving before hitting compression again
(a motor ALWAYS stops on the compression stroke

i then press and hold the starter, and it starts.

if you ever hear the starter whining and it's not turning...stop!...that is the sound of the windings burning





Mike

 

Cable were checked and are good.


Edit: Scratch that, the negative cable to the frame wasn't checked. I'll look at it tonight.

 

He will absolutely need a compensator and also must change the stator flywheel as the updated compensator springs are different. Also chances are the clutch basket splines may be torn up and when you have the clutch basket off take a good look at the primary shaft bearing. He is lucky things haven't self destructed yet, the old style springs become worn and loose then rattle inside the cage they are contained in and tear things apart. Lots of info on this forum and other places on line, you will be buying the 2014 updated compensator , 42200064-A , or check into the one Baker is selling, your choice. It will run ,sound and feel like a new bike after the repairs. I have replaced a few compensators and have found by polishing the spokes and ramps they work smoother and don't tear themselves up near as fast due to the polished surfaces and minimize the metal chips in the primary oil.

 

From what I have read, I believe you. But how does a bad comp cause starting problems?

My theory is that is has something to do with a running engine puts torque in one direction and the starter puts torque on the other. I have my doubt that I'm correct, though.

 

running motor and starting motor run in the same counterclockwise direction.

figure out the starter problem then see if this is a physical problem

Mike

 

What I was trying to say is the engine applies torque on the compensator in one direction and the starter applies torque in the other direction.
-or-
The engine turning the compensator is different than the starter tuning the compensator.

 

I have found that getting lazy on the start button (releasing before an actual start) will usually produce a kickback. Now I just make sure I crank until it has started. +1 on checking and doing an annual cable check looking for any corrosion at cable ends or bulges in the insulation.

 

A weakening compensator will start to weaken/damage , the starter motor clutch ..
If you want to eliminate the bang at start up,, the bad clunk at engaging first gear ,, the bang at shut down,, replace compensator.. Your bike , (2008) requires part no, 40100061, (which includes the rotor assembly in the kit) ...
With 38,000 miles, your primary tensioner should be ok .. (replace if worn , part no, 3992906 B ).. Your clutch plates should be ok .. (check and clean clutch hub and basket )..
If no tell tale signs of oil leaks, no need to dig deeper and remove inner primary..

As you have to remove starter mounting bolts for above work, I would replace the starter clutch , (all *****), for preventative maintenance...
Google ,, "Installing harley compensator", there is a great video showing what you have to do... Good luck..

 

I had hard starting problems for years. Long story short, replaced compensator, a few batteries, several starters, checked connections repeatedly, still had hot start problems. replaced both battery cables (about $35 for both) and hot start problems went away. Exposed ends of the cables all looked good, no visible signs of corrosion.

And since I replaced the comp in 2011 with the wonderful SE comp with the fretting problem, I get to swap it out for the new improved compensator this spring. Yay.