Alright so I posted a "HELP!" thread when my motor started knocking really bad after I lost a breather bolt off my air cleaner. Turns out, as best as we (my local indy and I) could tell, the bolt broke and some of it went in the intake, broke an intake valve, scarred the cylinder and piston, trashed a piston rod bearing, then flew out the exhaust. We could follow the "tink" marks the whole way out the exhaust; pretty nasty. Anyway, my crank case was basically totaled since we'd have to split it to replace the flywheel (because of the piston rod bearing). We were either looking at a new crank case with new flywheel (1,000-1,500), buying a used one (not a good idea... like, at all) or having the whole thing rebuilt by S&S or Darkhorse (very expensive, just to have stock again). After about 2 months of solid researching, calling every wrench I could get to pick up the phone, annoying the brakes off of 3 dealership's parts departments, and basically getting my Master's in Harley motor dynamics and part fitment... I came up with the following solution. I'm posting it here in case anyone else runs into the same or similar issue I did, or wants to go from 88ci to 103ci without changing the stock primary and transmission, and not buying a $5400 S&S motor.

TL;DR: I had the bright idea to go from a Stage I 88ci to a Stage II 103ci keeping stock 1999 drive train, and using mostly stock late-model parts.

I went with:
Crankcase and flywheel assembly off of a 2006 Screamin' Eagle Ultra with 20,000 miles (not ideal but everything looks VERY good and clean). These CVOs (between 2003 and 2006) came with 103ci, so it already has a stroker flywheel, meaning it has a 4.374" stroke, as opposed to the stock 4.0" stroke. These CVO crank cases still bolt up to 1999 - 2006 stock primary (5-speed trans).

Used stock 1999 cam plate and tensioners (new boots) (will go hydraulic later, couldn't afford now.)

Went with new S&S 551 Easy Start cams ( used Easy Start to reduce the stress of the high compression on my stock starter. You can also accomplish this with manual compression releases, or automatic compression releases if you buy late-model cylinder heads and a late-model ECM)

Stock bore (103ci) cylinders from a dealer take-off of a 2015 Electra Glide. If you use your stock 88ci cylinders on your CVO stroker crank case, it will get you to a 96ci. To get the 103ci, you have to either bore your 88ci cylinders, get aftermarket pre-bored cylinders, or get 2012+ OEM cylinders. Don't worry, they all bolt up to either your stock crank case or the CVO stroker crank cases. Don't forget to open up your heads!

Stock cylinder heads from the same 2015 Electra Glide dealer take-off. Super clean, no charring at all on heads. If you're using stock heads, you definitely want to open them up for better air flow for the higher displacement, otherwise your horsepower goes to **** after 2500RPM. 1999 - 2001 stock heads are the most constrictive twin-cam heads, mainly in the exhaust ports. However, these are favored by head porters because they have more material to work with when they open them up and deck them. You can also get OEM 2006 - 2011 heads which are opened up for the 96ci, and 2012+ heads that are opened the most. Keep in mind late-model OEM heads are a great improvement over stock 1999 - 2001 heads, but nothing beats getting either a "street port" or "Stage II" port job on your stock heads.

New Wiseco 9.6:1 high compression pistons. Went with these over the 10:1 compression because with the cometic gasket, the 10:1 pistons would put my compression too high for the easy-start cams, and most other stock lift cams.

Top-end gasket kit with .030 cometic head gasket. Paired with the 9.6:1 pistons, I should have 10.08 static compression (according to BigBoyz Compression calculator) and 9.3:1 corrected compression with the 551 cam.

New cycleLectric stator - mine was pretty caked up, so went ahead and replaced. However, the stock stator and rotor will work just fine with both the 2006 crank case and 1999 primary.

All new gas and oil lines.

Cycle Visions Mo-flow air cleaner

V&H 2-into-1 Pro Pipe



Waiting on new hoses to get here and we'll see if she starts up! If she does, I'll have effectively turned a trashed 88ci motor into a mostly new 103ci! And still have my original 88ci cylinders, heads, crank case, and SE 203 cams to sell to make back some money! Overall, project cost me about $1500. WAY better than the $3200 quote to fix what I had, and $5200 quote to have S&S build out the motor.

My only question: My wrench doesn't have a DYNO machine, and I don't want to know bad enough to pay MoCo to DYNO it. Anyone have an estimate at what numbers I'm looking at?

 

2006 CVO crank case masked for OEM texture black paint





Crank case after paint.





Fitting for cylinders and heads to make sure in person bolt patterns are the same.

 

Good score on the cvo crank! Why didn't ya use the acrs on the '15 heads instead of easy starts?

 

Awesome set up. I'm sure you have done this already, but make sure you pull the oil pan of the bottom of the transmission and thoroughly clean it out as there will be metal in it from the engine munching itself. Also blow out the oil passages through the trans case when the pan is off. if you have an oil cooler, replace it as you will never get all the metal out of it.

 

Great project! Keep the pics coming.

 

Great looking project. Definitely watching this one.

 

Thanks guys! Will definitely keep em coming. In response to 0ldhippie's question. In order to use late model ACRs, you have to have a late model ECM and starter that recognizes the option. That would have been another $600ish for the new starter and/or waaaay more for a new ECM. Since mine are perfectly fine, and I needed new cams anyway, I figured this was the most ideal setup. Although since the heads are already pre-machined and my starter/ECM ever go out, I can always get a new ECM and start using them.

 

Actually ya can just wire the arcs to the start solenoid/switch. Do not need to go through the ecm. But there is nothing wrong with easy starts, just redundant.

 

Thanks for the response. I didn't think it would be that simple! Another question though. Is my Cam position sensor going to work properly? Since I'm using the 1999 cam plate, I would think it's still gonna read correctly. I just know they stopped using them after 2001, so this 2006 crankcase was never meant to use one.

 

So while I was waiting on the stator and new hoses, I blacked out some more motor pieces using gloss black VHT engine enamel. All parts go in tomorrow! I'll post a video when she fires up.






Primary cover and transmission covers




Cam cover




Derby cover




V&H pro pipe