Hello All!

I have been having an issue for about 12 months now with a code P1510, P2127, and P2138... the codes randomly all set together, for apparently no reason, at any given time. Every time it happens i pull over , reset codes, fire Frenchi back up... and hit the road. ( usually comes on again at some point in the next day, or 2)..but could not pinpoint when/why...

..., i ran my PV-1 cable thru the drivers back rest slot and gave the old lady a 10 minute tutorial on how to monitor the values linked to the TGS, LIVE while we she was riding as a passenger. I also showed her how to reset and clear the codes while we are riding...asked her to take good care in watching the values and immediately identifying "when" the code is tripped and to watch which value on the TGS sensor dropped below or above the correct voltage which causes the codes and P1510 limited performance.

Turns out after 5 hours of simulations, in 103 degree weather with heavy humidity you can chew on..

Twist grip sensor 2 drops to 0.00 volts when turning handlebars to the left at slow maneuvers, but when I move back to the "straight" position the voltage climbs rapidly back to the correct value of combined 5.0v. During driving she would clear all codes at ECM and i would repeat maneuver to the same result everytime... turning handlebars left cause a momentary BLIP in the voltage and leads the codes to come on... looks like we know the problem now to find it in person.

tonight i will take off fairing and simulate DTC code while sitting on bike and have the OL watch the TGS wires near the neck to see which one is getting a kink or has a spot rubbed in it. IF those wires are fine... i'm assuming the problem is in the bars and the left turn causes a little to much pull on a wire that could be bare in the bars.... thats a whole nother' project!

 

go Sherlock. Let us know what you find, and by-the-way how is Watson?
Kroozeabout.

 

Well, i took off the fairing and wiggled the plug and pulled on the wire for the TGS thru the bottom of the handlebars and then started the bike... the TBW had no response and engine code was P1512 (idle only).

I tried plugging, tugging, pushing, resetting, etc etc and could not get the throttle to respond at all even after mutiple DTC resets .

So i tore her down last night and removed the bars.

After removing the bars and pulling the right side wires and TBW out, all the sheathing looked in good condition and the soldered TGS wires appeared good as wel, (granted i could not see under the shrink wrap.

I am going to get a new updated Screaming Eagle TBW harness today and try putting it all back together tonight. Guess will see what happens.

this is frustrating

 

Trouble shooting electronic problems is a pain in the a$$....

But you have to go step by step, and very methodically.

Sounds like you have a handle on it.... can't wait to see the results.

Good luck..

 

Getting no where and need some advice/help.

I replaced the TBW last night with the 32310-08. I reinstalled the bars on the bike and reset all the DTC codes.

I followed the TBW 6 wires to the plug and into the neck to amke sure there was no "binding"

Turned bike on, NO CODES! turn handlebars left and all be damned if all 3 of the codes P1510-P2127-P2138 came right the F back on.

may be time to trade up. my patience is very low.

anyone have any suggestions?

 

Cheap/easy way? Run an extra ground, if possible just to test?

 

Im not exactly sure what you mean by running an extra ground? can you explain and thanks!!!

 

Peel back the sheath over the harness between the gas tank and fairing.(right side) Then feel each wire, They break inside the insulation right where that factory Zip-Tie is way too tight and wires a little short. I found that out the hard way.

 

I'll add that on the other (left) side had a similar problem where the Zip-Tie nearly cut my antenna Co-ax cable in half

 

I will note, i followed this harness as you say above.. and there was a spot that had some pretty good kinks in it, but the sheathing was still good.

Are you suggesting that even though the insulation is good, the internal stranded wires could be split causing a momentary "blip" of voltage cariation, in turn leading the DTC light to come on? this wuold make a little more sense as the light is so intermittent.. but could a broken strand inside the insualtion cause that much havoc?

For example, if there is a 20 strands inside of a wire, and 2 of those 20 strands break, could that allow a voltage spike/low?

im going to pull back that cover tonight and I guess "strip the wire" that is kinked and see if the srands inside are ok.

if so, do i replace that entire cabel from fairing to ecm that runs in the loom under the gas stank?

Thanks so much!!