Alto Carbonite Clutch
#1
10-02-2016, 08:23 PM
Alto Carbonite Clutch
I installed and test-rode one today. Works great and was an easy installation.
http://www.altousa.com/am/motorcycle
The Carbonite does not have the single-sided friction plates. It comes with an extra friction and steel plate to add surface area to the clutch plate faces.
Soak the friction plates in whatever oil you plan to run in the primary. Alto recommends Synthetic ATF like Mobil 1, Red Line etc. I coated mine in the bottom of an oil catch pan and let them sit over night. I didn't submerge them but gave them a liberal coating and came back for a re-basting later.
Installation is basically to remove the stock plates, including the last narrow friction plate and replace with the plate from the Alto kit, including a new narrow friction plate. Don't remove the circular spring that the plates stack up against.
It's basically removing replacing tit for tat except for the extra plate set-up.
One tip when installing clutch packs is to arrange the new pack before starting. Start with the narrow friction, then add a steel, than a regular friction, then a steel and so on. Pull off of that pre-arranged pack as you insert one plate after another into the clutch basket. It helps you keep track of what you've just inserted into the basket!
It all works like a snap.
Fill the primary with oil, I used Mobil 1 Synthetic ATF, until the oil level comes to the lip of the clutch basket near the bottom of the diaphragm spring with the bike upright and level. Install the derby cover and run the engine momentarily to sling the oil into the primary cavities. Then remove the derby cover again and add enough oil to put the level at the bottom of the spring. Close it up.
I had removed my primary cover from a cold engine and the gasket pulled off totally intact and did not need replacing. Button it all up.
Re-adjust the clutch as directed elsewhere. Loosen the cable, loosen pressure plate nut and back off set screw, turn set screw until contact is made and back off 1/2 to 3/4 turn. I went with about 3/4 turn to give plenty of slack. Then tighten the cable to suit. You need the slack in the pressure plate adjustment so the plates won't get slightly opened when everything heats up and expands.
.
http://www.altousa.com/am/motorcycle
The Carbonite does not have the single-sided friction plates. It comes with an extra friction and steel plate to add surface area to the clutch plate faces.
Soak the friction plates in whatever oil you plan to run in the primary. Alto recommends Synthetic ATF like Mobil 1, Red Line etc. I coated mine in the bottom of an oil catch pan and let them sit over night. I didn't submerge them but gave them a liberal coating and came back for a re-basting later.
Installation is basically to remove the stock plates, including the last narrow friction plate and replace with the plate from the Alto kit, including a new narrow friction plate. Don't remove the circular spring that the plates stack up against.
It's basically removing replacing tit for tat except for the extra plate set-up.
One tip when installing clutch packs is to arrange the new pack before starting. Start with the narrow friction, then add a steel, than a regular friction, then a steel and so on. Pull off of that pre-arranged pack as you insert one plate after another into the clutch basket. It helps you keep track of what you've just inserted into the basket!
It all works like a snap.
Fill the primary with oil, I used Mobil 1 Synthetic ATF, until the oil level comes to the lip of the clutch basket near the bottom of the diaphragm spring with the bike upright and level. Install the derby cover and run the engine momentarily to sling the oil into the primary cavities. Then remove the derby cover again and add enough oil to put the level at the bottom of the spring. Close it up.
I had removed my primary cover from a cold engine and the gasket pulled off totally intact and did not need replacing. Button it all up.
Re-adjust the clutch as directed elsewhere. Loosen the cable, loosen pressure plate nut and back off set screw, turn set screw until contact is made and back off 1/2 to 3/4 turn. I went with about 3/4 turn to give plenty of slack. Then tighten the cable to suit. You need the slack in the pressure plate adjustment so the plates won't get slightly opened when everything heats up and expands.
.
Last edited by leafman60; 10-03-2016 at 09:35 PM.
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tennmoto (01-24-2018)
#2
01-24-2018, 05:39 PM
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