Wiring a 2000 UC tour pak on a 2017 RK
 

In the M8 forum I posted up about the physical mount I built so I could use a 2000 Ultra Classic King tour pak on my 207 Road King. Nobody there had ideas on wiring up the lights, so here goes:

Short answer: What do I need to be aware of when I hook an old tour pak with incandescent lights to a 2017 RK with a BCM?

Long form:

My questions follow the background info.

I have a 2017 Road King that's stock electrically except for:

• Bright Ass Lights 1 dealer installed
• Accessory power adapter installed, for power ports in a saddlebag

I scored a King Tour Pak off a 2000 Ultra Classic on eBay that's complete (as far as i can tell) with:

• 1157 large lights on the back
• side markers with small (1W?) bulbs

I also bought an "LED light kit wiring harness" from Harley Davidson (Part 69200772) that can be plugged into the taillights under the seat, and delivers a three-lead connector that physically matches the connector in the tour pak.

The wiring is intact in the tour pak.

I haven't connected it to the bike because I'm reading conflicting things about adding electronics to the bike because of CANBUS, and I'd rather not incapacitate my bike, or cause long-term problems. I couldn't find anything relevant in the service manual.

My local Harley dealer wants $385 plus parts to "install" the tour pak, which would include rewiring the lights.

So, my questions:

• Is the simplest answer the best?
• Can I simply connect the tour pak adapter to the tour pak, verify that the lights work, and be on my way?
• Is there a "BCM load balancing procedure" that I'd need to do if i add the incandescent lights?
• If I need to upgrade to LEDs, is Custom Dynamics the best solution for me?
• I think I'd need:
• BCM Smart Triple Play (How would this work with my installed BAL1?) for RTB conversion
• Magic Converter to make tour pak RTB - but my tour pak is from a 2000 Ultra Classic, which is not listed in the fitment list.
• Genesis II Ultimate Tour Pak LED kit - to replace the 1157 bulbs in the tour pak rear lights.

I'd swap the lights to led- about 1/10th the current draw.

and/or just wire to an ACC circuit for running lights- you already have brake lights

I work with electricity- this should be a $30 project

looking at your list it is getting pricey, overly complicated

riders who can;t wire themselves, sometimes get stuck on some idea of "plug and play" when a simple wiring project would have equal or better results


for instance when making my t/p detach ( 09) I replaced the wiring from the fender back with a simple flat 4 trailer plug which give me run/brake and acc functions in the T/P
$16

mike

I would just replace all the bulbs with LED bulbs...Just did this on my 1997 Ultra and they are plenty Bright...Pilot brand 1157 red bulbs for walmart 2 for $15 http://www.pilotautomotive.com/led/IL-1157R-15.html

The side of my TP just has 2 194 bulbs on each side....Replaced with these which are the same as I used to change all my gage lighting to red.

Interesting, if you're electrically inclined you can tell the dealer to go smoke it and do it yourself for $350 less. You will have to tap into the rear light harness (brake/run/turn) it's doable but use the right tools, use a test light and most importantly take your time and don't rush. It's up to you if you want to swap to LED's to cut down the elelectrical draw. I did something similar to my brothers RoadGlide a few years ago. I ended up rewiring a king TP he got at work. I installed wraparound LED lights to my chopped TP on my street glide and rewired it to have Run/turn/brake.

I am in a similar boat. I have an 2013 RGC and bought a complete older tourpack. So I will be subscribing to this as well.

For these bulbs, you dont need a line load equalizer then correct? Just change and walk away.

The plug and wire harness to run your tour pak lights are zip tied to the antenna cable under your left side cover down by the swing arm. All you have to do is get it loose and reroute it to up under the seat.

I changed all of my lights over to led so I did need a load equalizer. I bought the Kuryakyn run/stop/turn module that included a new wiring harness for tour pack and a load equalizer. If you are leaving the rest of your bulbs stock you shouldn't need an equalizer.