I was switching out a header today, and I'm not a wrench. I had all the tools laid out, manual inserts, for instructions, and went on my way.

So, the decatted header is in place, now I'm ready to torque flange bolts. I have my inch pound torque wrench for the initial setting, and guess who misread the final inch pound for final using foot pounds. Instead of 120 inch pounds, I take my ft lbs torque wrench out and start the process.

Luckily my left over brain kicked in, and stopped. Backed off the bolt, and started the process over.

Thinking back, I could be taking off the head to repair that stud that broke off.

Anyone have similar stories? Over 65 crowd here, ha ha. I'm now having a Vodka martini writing this, life's great

 

Vodka martini's used to be my favorite drink.

I've never used a torque wrench on my exhaust.

Over.

 

 

Early 1970s and I was working for a mechanic at the time. He was also a stock car racer and was a well known engine builder. Anyway, I would stay after closing and work on my own stuff. I had bored a Chevy 283 to a 301 and was putting the crankshaft in when I got the torque wrench set wrong or sumpin', and I snapped off one of the bolts holding a main bearing cap. I nearly panicked thinking I was going to have to drill it out. After a few minutes I called the owner and told him what I did. He asked, "Is any of the bolt sticking out?" I told him about a half inch of it. He said, "Grab it and unscrew it." I reached over and with my finger and thumb I unscrewed it with ease. (insert photo of me sighing with relief.)

I didn't know that the threads were such that they didn't get tight until it was torqued down. Lesson learned.
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Doubtful that it would break the bolt. They use inch-pounds due to the expansion from heat - it'll tighten up due to dissimilar metals between the nut and bolt. But, I did the same thing once and had a gasket leak. You may not depending on the type of gasket you used. I was using the old conical style ones.

 

When a technician at my dealer put Rinehart headers on my RK, I asked if they torque to spec and he said they just snug everything down. He also said to re-tighten after a few heat cycles. I happened to be back the following week so they re-tightened, I was surprised when I saw how much they had loosened.

 

This is what I do.

 

I researched my handle bar swap to death, reading and watching everything I could find online.

Had everything needed and proceeded slow and easy. All went very well and worked perfectly. However on the Wild One website they stated that if you use heated grips you have to cut off 3/8 inch off the left end of the bars. I missed that memo and ended up with the dreaded gap between the control and step down of the bar.

Well I fixed it without having to take everything apart and all is well. But I felt pretty stupid.

I always learn the hard way!