Rear pads on a 03 Ultra
#2
#3
#4
"Modified"Easy on the Brembo. Lol. Not your bike. .
Need some brake cleaner, high heat anti seize for the pin and back of pads, blue lock rite, 10 mm 12 point socket, 5 mil Allen and a torque wrench if you must. Assuming your disc is still good. These tools are for my 2013 but may vary for your year.
It took about 5-10 minutes per side on my fronts this weekend. Great YouTube videos to guide you.
Need some brake cleaner, high heat anti seize for the pin and back of pads, blue lock rite, 10 mm 12 point socket, 5 mil Allen and a torque wrench if you must. Assuming your disc is still good. These tools are for my 2013 but may vary for your year.
It took about 5-10 minutes per side on my fronts this weekend. Great YouTube videos to guide you.
Last edited by Ben221; 04-25-2017 at 08:39 AM.
#5
The rear involves taking the axle shaft out, so you'll need the wrenches for that job. It's a little fiddly, getting the caliper out as there's an anti-rotation tab on the swing arm. Then the wheel falls over and the spacer drops to the ground. Arguably a little easier if you don't completely remove the axle shaft.
It's not a hard job per-se, but it's not a quicky job either.
It's not a hard job per-se, but it's not a quicky job either.
#6
Easy. Need some brake cleaner, high heat anti seize for the pin and back of pads, blue lock rite, 10 mm 12 point socket, 5 mil Allen and a torque wrench if you must. Assuming your disc is still good. These tools are for my 2013 but may vary for your year.
It took about 5-10 minutes per side on my fronts this weekend. Great YouTube videos to guide you.
It took about 5-10 minutes per side on my fronts this weekend. Great YouTube videos to guide you.
#7
The rear involves taking the axle shaft out, so you'll need the wrenches for that job. It's a little fiddly, getting the caliper out as there's an anti-rotation tab on the swing arm. Then the wheel falls over and the spacer drops to the ground. Arguably a little easier if you don't completely remove the axle shaft.
It's not a hard job per-se, but it's not a quicky job either.
It's not a hard job per-se, but it's not a quicky job either.
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#9
#10
NO, it doesnt require removing the axle, remove the master cylinder cap, get a thin stiff blade putty knife and work it in between the inner pad and rotor and spread it out until the pad is against the caliper, pull the pins and drop the inner pad, replace with new pad and loosly install 1 pin to hold it in place, now repeat for outer pad, torque pins to 180 in lbs, flush and top off fluid!
If the caliper pistons were booted, I'd much more readily agree with you.