I bought a brand new 2016 RK and added a full exhaust, Rinehart Slimline Duals, 4" along with that I added the turbine air cleaner from roland sands.

The bike was tuned with a Screaming Eagle Pro Tuner (black box - EPA friendly) and run on a Dyno at the dealership that installed them.

I picked the bike up, rode it for two hours and at lower RPM (under 2K) the bike would SOMETIMES (10% of the time) start bucking like a horse, not normal engine lugging when you are in too high of a gear type of scenario. I brought it right back to the dealer and told them something was wrong, there is no way I should lose complete power and have it buck like a horse and then pick back up again.

They told me the bike should never fall below 2K RPM and it should be between 2250 and 2300 optimally. Look I get "optimal" - I'm not looking for "optimal" in this scenario I'm looking for the one-off instances where I'm heading into a curve and don't downshift and want to hit the throttle at say 1800 RPM.

What are your thoughts?

EDIT - Added Dyno map picture

EDIT 2 - Took the bike out again two more times since I got it back. The bike almost cut out (dropped below 900 RPM) two different times at idle in N at stop lights. Many different times while pulling out of first gear the bike is in and out of power giving me the "bucking", I have to ride the clutch (high RPM) to get it moving consistently. Any thoughts on this?

EDIT 3 - The o2 sensors were swapped, front was rear - rear was front... Installed by dealer but diagnosed by me with all your help and others... FULL story at the end of this thread Post #41

 

1800 is way too low, its lugging, especially if you frequently hit the throttle hard at that RPM. If you keep that up you'll be complaining about your crank giving out.

You'll get a ton of opinions about "optimal" RPM, but cruising for hours between 2700 and 3000 is fairly typical. 2300 being "optimal" in my opinion is horse dookey. Most people shift between 3 and 4K, but the bike can handle shifting at higher RPMs without skipping a beat.

Stop cruising at 1800

 

Regardless of the rpm for cruising, it should not buck at any rpm.

Needs more tuning. (Fueling/spark advance work.)

Does you "full Rinehart" system have bungs for sensors?

 

Understood - I'll keep it at higher RPM

My Dyna I used to shift at 2500 RPM all the time and that was most optimal for that bike. Touring bike is different I do understand that just didn't expect the "bucking" part of it. It doesn't feel like a "lug" just bucking...

I agree it shouldn't buck at any RPM....

Not sure what you mean by bungs for sensors...

 

It shouldn't buck. Did they give you a dyno sheet? Can you post it?

I'm sure there are good tuners at dealerships but I haven't seen one yet. I'd highly recommend finding an independent shop that has a dyno. They usually do a much better job at tuning.

Bungs for sensors. He's asking if you pipes have threaded "bungs" for the o2 sensors.

 

I'm going to ask the dealer for the Dyno sheet, they didn't give me one. I will post it as soon as I get it.

I do know an independent that does it but I already paid the dealer to do this so I am hoping to get it resolved with them.

No clue on the "bungs", I'm really not that technical.... I can find out though

 

It's rare that a HD dealership can correctly dyno a bike. Get us the sheet so we can give you some feed back to tell the dealer.

Wait for it..............they're going to tell you they don't have a sheet!

 

How can they not have a sheet though? Wouldn't all bikes that get dyno'd have a sheet produced?

If I paid for a Dyno shouldn't they owe me an output sheet?

They keep pushing back saying this is normal and that the bike with this setup should perform like this. I've rode tons of bikes and never once had a bike cut out and buck like this..... Seems poorly tuned

 

I read that thread about your clutch cable. I don't like what they said about it had to break in. Also there replacing the cable because it got damaged? They installed it incorrectly I'd say is why it's damaged. And just reading their response as to why it's bucking is weak.

I'm just preparing you. No way they got a sheet for the crappy tune your dealing with. It shouldn't buck at any RPM!

 

Good luck getting the dyno printout after the fact. That would require them to have saved the file in a way they would be able to retrieve it and know it was yours.

Just for the sheer fact they are telling you it's normal, when you know it's not, I'd quit using them. Did they even ride it to see what you are talking about? When you had it tuned, did you talk to the guy doing the tune? Did he ask you about what you wanted in the tune? Your riding style?

Do your self a big favor and cut your losses in both time and money at the dealer and if the independent close to you has a good reputation, take it to him and have him fix your tune. For the simple mods on your bike, he'll probably be less than what you paid the dealer.

Again, I'm not say all, but most dealerships start from canned maps from the MOCO. The list of maps they have to choose from only have HD products on them. Since neither your pipes nor your intake are HD, they try to find a map that's close to your setup, download it, do a couple of pulls on the dyno, and call it done. I doubt very seriously they spent any time tweaking it the map like an indy would.

If for some reason you do get the map, the lines should be smooth. I bet yours are aren't.

A good indy will have a map that has the same set up or will tweak one that is close. He will ask you about you riding style and desires. Do you want maximum performance, fuel mileage, a combination, do you ride two up? Mostly tour or ride around town? He can tune the bike to take all this into consideration.

I have been in the exact same situation and stupid enough to be talked into it a second time. The first time it made a huge difference in performance and ran so much better. The second time the bike ran just ok but after 14,000 miles I could tell something wasn't running right. Took it to the indy and discovered the tune was so lean it had caused engine damage. The dealer said nothing was wrong so I made them take it in trade and bought a new bike and then refused to let them touch it. After a 1,000 miles break in, I took it to the indy for cams, pipes and tune and now have the best running bike I've ever had.

Good luck getting you problem solved which ever route you go.