2014 Street Glide Oil Diesel Specs Question
 

Hi - Just bought a 2014 street glide FLHX and I was reading the manual regarding oil changes for the Engine, Tranny, and Primary. I'm a DIY guy and maintain my own vehicles! So I'm wondering, the manual states...
I've seen some posts recommending various things, but I also know that all engines will burn a small amount of oil. I have a Ram diesel truck and if I used regular API spec oil for gasoline engines (whether synthetic or conventional), I would risk damage to electronics to O2 sensors, DEF system, and maybe other emission related electronics.

So, how many of you out there with 2014 or newer Harleys with the 103 are following the minimum recommended specs from the manual? Or not?

I'm also worried about the Primary wet clutch and thinking I really should follow the Diesel spec or the HD-360 spec as the manual suggests.

Looking forward to hearing what you are doing! Thanks!

I don't think this has the API-SN spec but this link is most of the other API spec info... http://www.apicj-4.org/2009_engine_oil_guide.pdf. The diesel specs call out protection of emission equipment suchs as cats, etc. Although I won't be running a cat after the V&H dressers duals get put on next week. LOL

Kevin

To add to my post --- The other interesting thing I saw at Walmart today was that the Mobil-1 v-twin 20w50 synthetic oil did not meet any of the Diesel specifications (CH-4, CI-4 or CJ-4). It only listed API specs for gasoline engines.

https://www.walmart.com/ip/Mobil-1-2...-1-qt/16767830

Kevin

Mobil one 20-50 v-twin. don't know why anyone would run anything different. motorcycle oil is what it needs.

Hi - So, you don't really care about the API-CH, CI, or CJ-4 spec requirements called out by the Harley Manual for 2014 and newer? Mobil-1 v-twin does not list API diesel specs.

It does seem kind of silly to me that diesel specs are listed in the manual. The CI-4 and CJ-4 specs are for low sulfur diesel fuels and for protection of emissions equipment.

But an air-cooled Harley would probably require Heavier Duty engine oil versus a water cooled car.

I'll probably stick with the manual requirements to determine what oil I will use, but I'm still curious to hear thoughts on this subject.

my thoughts?

I use redline 20w-60 in my bike (with the 110), and mobil1 15w-50 in the wife's (with the 103). before I got the cvo, I used mobil1 in my bike also. the 110 is one hot running sumbitch though....

for the primary, I use shell rotella t 15w-40. it is jaso rated so it is good for wet clutch use. runs around $14 for a gallon.

this has worked for me for at least a decade. have never had an oil related failure. shoot, I've been lucky and never really had a failure period. did have to have an ipb replaced under warranty once.

I am no expert on this subject but from what I've read is the reason Harley specifies diesel oil is because they recommend the same oil in all 3 holes. Gasoline engine oil has friction modifiers that will cause the clutch to slip. Oils designed for specific purposes should not cause any problem as long as you're using the oil for it's intended use.

I use Rotella T-6 10/40 diesel oil in every bike from the Street to the 120's for about three years now and around 100K miles combined. Why? it's cheap at $5/qt and spec'd for wet clutches. All the Shell tech reps that I have talked to over the years use it in their HD's.

For the trans I stay with Bel Ray.

Don't do what I do as I am the dummy that only uses 87 octane E10 gas.:icon_crackup:

Thanks! The wet clutch is certainly my biggest concern and I read the same thing so I'm definitely thinking I need to follow the diesel specs for the primary at a minimum.

Found this interesting thread as I researched tonight...

https://bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ub...pics/3676280/1

I'm going to run Mystic 15w50 for the Engine and Trans since it's rated appropriately and has the upper 50 viscosity. Ordered it online tonight.

And thinking I'm going to run Rotella T 15w40 (or maybe Rotella T5 or T6) for the primary since it is JASO-MA rated and has the appropriate diesel rating.

I know I won't put 5000 miles a year on my ride but I'll be changing all three every year just like I would do for my cars and trucks.

Please continue to share your thoughts as I'm still reading and interested. :-)

I'm still wondering how running an automotive spec oil in a diesel engine will damage electronics.

dribble---Most all modern Diesel engines now days have electronic controls, thanks to the EPA.

John

For my 2016 RAM 1500 eco-diesel, if I don't run the right spec of Diesel oil, I am told it could cause damage to the DEF system (correction: Maybe that's DPF system).

However, most diesel oils also carry the API-SM or SN spec for gasoline engines...so it's confusing as hell that Harley would recommend a Diesel spec. I am thinking it's because most Harleys are air cooled and so much of what I read states that Diesel oil additives help prevent deposit buildups. The cleaner the engine, the longer it will last. Obviously this is just a guess on my part.

The oil FCA spec's for your ecodiesel is just low ash. Yes I own one also. I also know guys that have used regular old Delo in them from the first change and have never had an issue. I use the Rotella as specified now.

So what spec is HD360 or the HD syn? I don't think there is any spec on the bottles. So who knows? I do believe HD's Formula+ is pretty good stuff for the primary and trans. There used to be a guy around here that had over 100K mi. on his original twinkie using nothing but Walmart Super Tech 20w50 in all 3 holes changed every 5K mi. I just don't believe these motors are very picky. Choose a quality oil and change it at reasonable intervals. Ride, have fun, repeat.

Thanks "Tired!" I would love to buy the cheap SuperTech oil that I use in my wife's Toyota Sienna which doesn't burn a drop and has 110k miles, but I would kick myself if I messed up something like the clutch.

Hate to get off topic, but are you saying you use Rotella for your Ram 1500 eco? I looked at them and didn't see any that meet the ACEA-C3 Euro spec for the FCA diesel...I would hate to have to replace something with the DPF or DEF and I'm planning on keeping the truck for several years like my last one.

Sometime around mid July of 2016 FCA revised the oil requirement for the Ecodiesel.

The latest Diesel Supplement to the Owners Manual for all year Ecodiesels states:

We recommend you use 5W-40 synthetic engine oil such
as MOPAR or Shell Rotella that meets FCA Material
Standard MS-10902 and the API CJ-4 or ACEA E9/E7 or
ACEA A3/B4 engine oil category is required.

https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.hdf...b0b506eacd.jpg

This is correct, Harley suggests this for the KISS thought process.

The 15w40 Rotella will perform better with your clutch then the T6

:icon_omg:another oil post. anyway I use progresso vegetable soup in all three holes. NO problem, 8500 miles.:icon_monkey:

I think it's ok to substitute Cambell's veggie soup if you have to change on the road. I'd stay away from the store brand though...

I use alphabet soup. And use the letter "O's" on the drain plugs.

Oh man....that is great info on the Ram 1500 eco-diesel!!! Thanks!

:icon_dance-cpatch:

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Thats because m1's v-twin syn oil isnt designed for or intended to be used in a diesel app in the 1st place.

I have been researching motor oil since 2006 for reasons i wont get into here but none the less have obtained a lot of info & experience of thats going on with motor oil along with also having 4.5 decades 1st hand exp restoring,wrenching & building motors in classic 60's-70's muscle cars & bikes too so have a decent back ground when it comes to wrenching motor etc along with the oil research too.

OK,15w-40 diesel oil thats most common isnt best choice for a lrg disp HD v-twin,but as HD states it is acceptable to use in the motor in a pinch which i feel isn't an issue short term either.

They did that because the 15w-40 D oil in the past all had decent anti wear/zddp of approx 1500ppm or so that protects air cooled HD's that run hot at times pretty good vs std pass car motor oil that on avg has a considerably lower 800-900ppm zddp lvl anti wear agent to prevent cat converters from premature failure causing emission & mfg/warranty issues.

People say/think the avg diesel oil like for ex chevron delo or retella 15w-40 doesn't contain a small amount of friction modifiers that arent so wet clutch friendly they do in fact contain them which is a fact got from oil engineers i spoke to from Chevron concerning Delo & shell 15w-40 diesel oil.

But,in a pinch chevron Delo 15w-40 has a decent 1300ppm zddp/anti wear agent lvl thats good for protecting motors against excessive heat etc ,shell rotella has approx 1150ppm which isnt quite as good an anti wear agent lvl.

approx 1200ppm or higher to max of 1800ppm zddp/anti wear agent lvl (long term) is very beneficial to protecting any lrg HD v-twin from scufing/scrtching/gailing in times of excessive heat cond's along with also being great protection for the valvetrain too.

But for guys still running cat's if your bike uses/burns any oil over many yrs/mile can poss foul a cat rendering it inoperable so keep that in mind when using oil that got over approx 800-1kppm zddp/anti wear agent lvl.

Bottom line is for what you spent to buy your HD why try to cheap out using not best choice or not proper oil for best protection in the motor/prim/trans of your expensive bike?

Will your HD self destruct any time soon if you run improper automotive/truck oil in all 3 holes,NO.

Is running oil specifically designed for HD v-wins,HD prim case & HD 6spd trans that only cost a few more bucks going to better protect it,YES.

I run Spectro oil specifically designed for lrg HD v-twins,i use either their semi blend or full syn 20w-50 in the motor,their 85w std dino prim oil in the prim case along with their full syn 75w-140 specifically designed for HD 6spd trans with great results.

1) I change the motor oil @ approx 3,500-4k miles vs HD's rec 5k miles.

With cam chain tensioner,cam bearing & even some lifter issues i figure proper fresher oil cant hurt because less friction with fresher proper less contaminated oil = less wear.

2) Change prim case oil @ either every motor oil & filter change or @ 5k miles max vs HD's 10k rec.

With compensator,prim chain adjuster,IPB issues etc ,again i figure proper fresher oil cant hurt because less friction with fresher proper less contaminated oil = less wear.

3) Change trans @ 10k miles or 1yr,which ever comes 1st vs HD's 20k rec.

With the general bearing issues HD has had in earlier 6spd trans again i figure proper fresher oil cant hurt because less friction with fresher proper less contaminated oil = less wear.

So some people may still wonder why i change the oil in all 3 holes earlier then HD recs'?

Thats simple,it's because ensuring there is always cleaner fresher oil with less dirt & contaminants in it thats properly formulated for application being used in (a motorcycle,not a car or truck!) should in theory extend srv'c life of all those components lubed by the fresher oil thats properly formulated for app it's used in.

But,THAT'S AS LONG AS THERE AREN'T ANY MFG ISSUES/DEFECTIVE PARTS IN THE MOTOR/PRIM CASE/TRANS AS RECEIVED NEW FROM HD IN WHICH CASE THEY ARE GOING FAIL PREMATURELY NO MATTER WHAT YOU DO.

Scott

Excellent post,
Unlike internet chatter and oil company marketing selling products with no true ratings at all. I do something different, I listen to the advice of the owners manual.

I run Mystik semi synthetic 15w50 diesel/gas oil, claims CJ4.
Mystik oil is well known in the heavy duty agriculture industry, it is a Citgo product, the same company that makes Harley Oil.

I suspect Harley is concerned about piston and ring cleanliness and why the CH4 or higher recommendation, Harley conventional 360 additive package is also similar to a diesel/gas oil.

Im unsure about pre Rushmore bikes, but the 103 HO engine sprays the bottom of the pistons with oil to help cool them and maybe why the call for the robust HEDO rating, to prevent piston and ring deposits.

I have also run MANY UOAs using Mystik, the last posted right in this forum under the UOA in the oil section, less the a week ago, also on bobistheoilguy.com

Ironically, this oil cost around $40 for a TWO GALLON jug delivered to my home, from ruralking.com.

Here is my UOA from just this week, I have run a total on FIVE UOA tests on my bike so far.
3 using Mystik and 2 HD 360 conventional.

Here is the link,
https://bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ub..._R#Post4483313

Im amazed that people pay $25,000 for a motorcycle and then ignore the oil requirements in the owners manual written by the people who built the engine, instead listen to unproven marketing crap from oil companies and well meaning people in internet forums.

Deleted, Double post to the above one. ...