Weird water mark issue
#51
10-21-2017, 07:30 AM
Grand HDF Member
Your paint definitely needs correction. If it were mine, I would start with the least aggressive Products 1st. If compounds fail I would go with Trizact 5000 By hand, Then I would follow with 3M perfect-it #3 then #2 and see if the flaws were gone. If not I would get more aggressive with Trizact 2500-3000 and follow with 5000 and again with #3 and 2.
Technique is as important as what you use. always start with the least aggressive and check results. Learn the proper sanding and polishing techniques. You can learn tons on Utube. Good luck to you!
Technique is as important as what you use. always start with the least aggressive and check results. Learn the proper sanding and polishing techniques. You can learn tons on Utube. Good luck to you!
#52
10-21-2017, 06:35 PM
Stellar HDF Member
No reason to wet sand the paint. If you do you better have a paint thickness gauge because one "Oops" and you are thru. You don't know if the previous owner had it wet sanded before so caution must be taken!
Every car/truck/ bike I do is done this way. Some steps can be skipped if I have determined that its not needed.
1. Wash throughly with a 2BW. Whatever car soap you have. Dawn soap does not strip wax, it can deteriorate it but if waxed recently it won't strip it. It leaves a film on the paint and it "Looks" like the beeding of water is gone but its still there.
2. Iron X all painted surfaces. This dissolves all iron deposits that are embedded in the paint.
3. Clay or Clay alternative mitt. I use a mitt on cars, bikes clay is easier.
4. Test spot for polish or compound. I have tried 5 different combos of products and pads before I found the one that worked the best.Use the least aggressive method possible to achieve the desired result. I always always do this. There is only so much clear coat and it needs to be preserved as much as possible.
5. If compounded, polish out.
6. Inspect paint from all angles with different lights. If happy with result then LSP.
Its hard to tell from just pictures but what you might be dealing with is water spotting. There are different stages of this. Read this article
https://www.autogeekonline.net/forum...-type-iii.html
I encountered this a few years ago with a black Yukon. I threw the kitchen sink at it!
There are some products designed to remove them. Sometimes they work really good, sometimes they work ok.
Every car/truck/ bike I do is done this way. Some steps can be skipped if I have determined that its not needed.
1. Wash throughly with a 2BW. Whatever car soap you have. Dawn soap does not strip wax, it can deteriorate it but if waxed recently it won't strip it. It leaves a film on the paint and it "Looks" like the beeding of water is gone but its still there.
2. Iron X all painted surfaces. This dissolves all iron deposits that are embedded in the paint.
3. Clay or Clay alternative mitt. I use a mitt on cars, bikes clay is easier.
4. Test spot for polish or compound. I have tried 5 different combos of products and pads before I found the one that worked the best.Use the least aggressive method possible to achieve the desired result. I always always do this. There is only so much clear coat and it needs to be preserved as much as possible.
5. If compounded, polish out.
6. Inspect paint from all angles with different lights. If happy with result then LSP.
Its hard to tell from just pictures but what you might be dealing with is water spotting. There are different stages of this. Read this article
https://www.autogeekonline.net/forum...-type-iii.html
I encountered this a few years ago with a black Yukon. I threw the kitchen sink at it!
There are some products designed to remove them. Sometimes they work really good, sometimes they work ok.
#53
10-21-2017, 07:07 PM
Stellar HDF Member
To add to my previous post;
My bike is vivid black and I have tried lots of compounds and polishes on it to see what works the best. I have thousands for dollars invested in machines, pads, and products. I do this as a side gig and know not everyone is into detailing like I am, but it puts extra cash in my pocket. Ive received lots of help on this forum so I like to return it when I can.
The hardest part of polishing vivid black is finishing down to close to perfect. This paint is super soft and I correct mine with polish only. There is no way it can finish down, to my liking anyway, by hand.
The combo I have found to finish the best is a LC white pad and 3D HD polish (NOT TALKING HARLEY POLISH), on my Flex machine. CarPro Reflect finished down just about as good but I have 32oz of the 3D. Removing this polish is very easy but with this paint you have to be extremely careful when touching it.
Quality microfibers are a must when doing this. Leave the AutoZone and Walmart towels for the tires, not the paint.
If you brought this bike to me to do this would be my plan of attack. Wash, Iron X, clay, wash. Then I would try a water spot remover. It might not completely remove them or it could remove them all. If they are not completely gone, compound it with Menzerna FG400.
Then polish it out.
Put a quality sealant on it and done. I only use wax when asked. Wax is a dust magnet.
If you wanted to pay the extra money, ceramic coating.
Here is a link to the water spot remover I have used with good results. There are many other ones out there, but this is the only one I have used.
https://www.autogeek.net/best-water-spot-remover.html
My bike is vivid black and I have tried lots of compounds and polishes on it to see what works the best. I have thousands for dollars invested in machines, pads, and products. I do this as a side gig and know not everyone is into detailing like I am, but it puts extra cash in my pocket. Ive received lots of help on this forum so I like to return it when I can.
The hardest part of polishing vivid black is finishing down to close to perfect. This paint is super soft and I correct mine with polish only. There is no way it can finish down, to my liking anyway, by hand.
The combo I have found to finish the best is a LC white pad and 3D HD polish (NOT TALKING HARLEY POLISH), on my Flex machine. CarPro Reflect finished down just about as good but I have 32oz of the 3D. Removing this polish is very easy but with this paint you have to be extremely careful when touching it.
Quality microfibers are a must when doing this. Leave the AutoZone and Walmart towels for the tires, not the paint.
If you brought this bike to me to do this would be my plan of attack. Wash, Iron X, clay, wash. Then I would try a water spot remover. It might not completely remove them or it could remove them all. If they are not completely gone, compound it with Menzerna FG400.
Then polish it out.
Put a quality sealant on it and done. I only use wax when asked. Wax is a dust magnet.
If you wanted to pay the extra money, ceramic coating.
Here is a link to the water spot remover I have used with good results. There are many other ones out there, but this is the only one I have used.
https://www.autogeek.net/best-water-spot-remover.html
#54
10-22-2017, 06:49 PM
Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: Southeast Michigan 15 Minutes East Of Hell
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No reason to wet sand the paint. If you do you better have a paint thickness gauge because one "Oops" and you are thru. You don't know if the previous owner had it wet sanded before so caution must be taken!
Every car/truck/ bike I do is done this way. Some steps can be skipped if I have determined that its not needed.
1. Wash throughly with a 2BW. Whatever car soap you have. Dawn soap does not strip wax, it can deteriorate it but if waxed recently it won't strip it. It leaves a film on the paint and it "Looks" like the beeding of water is gone but its still there.
2. Iron X all painted surfaces. This dissolves all iron deposits that are embedded in the paint.
3. Clay or Clay alternative mitt. I use a mitt on cars, bikes clay is easier.
4. Test spot for polish or compound. I have tried 5 different combos of products and pads before I found the one that worked the best.Use the least aggressive method possible to achieve the desired result. I always always do this. There is only so much clear coat and it needs to be preserved as much as possible.
5. If compounded, polish out.
6. Inspect paint from all angles with different lights. If happy with result then LSP.
Its hard to tell from just pictures but what you might be dealing with is water spotting. There are different stages of this. Read this article
https://www.autogeekonline.net/forum...-type-iii.html
I encountered this a few years ago with a black Yukon. I threw the kitchen sink at it!
There are some products designed to remove them. Sometimes they work really good, sometimes they work ok.
Every car/truck/ bike I do is done this way. Some steps can be skipped if I have determined that its not needed.
1. Wash throughly with a 2BW. Whatever car soap you have. Dawn soap does not strip wax, it can deteriorate it but if waxed recently it won't strip it. It leaves a film on the paint and it "Looks" like the beeding of water is gone but its still there.
2. Iron X all painted surfaces. This dissolves all iron deposits that are embedded in the paint.
3. Clay or Clay alternative mitt. I use a mitt on cars, bikes clay is easier.
4. Test spot for polish or compound. I have tried 5 different combos of products and pads before I found the one that worked the best.Use the least aggressive method possible to achieve the desired result. I always always do this. There is only so much clear coat and it needs to be preserved as much as possible.
5. If compounded, polish out.
6. Inspect paint from all angles with different lights. If happy with result then LSP.
Its hard to tell from just pictures but what you might be dealing with is water spotting. There are different stages of this. Read this article
https://www.autogeekonline.net/forum...-type-iii.html
I encountered this a few years ago with a black Yukon. I threw the kitchen sink at it!
There are some products designed to remove them. Sometimes they work really good, sometimes they work ok.
#56
10-22-2017, 11:04 PM
I have a similar condition on my 2011 FLHX...I'm the second owner...I've used the usual stuff in my polishing arsenal but no success yet. I figger it's probably S100 improperly used by the previous owner, cuz I have used it improperly before myself and wound up with the same effect. Sprayed it on and didn't rinse right away.
I don't like it but since I'm a painter, I'll get around to respraying it some day. I'd listen hard to eaglefan hard, OP. He has chops.
I don't like it but since I'm a painter, I'll get around to respraying it some day. I'd listen hard to eaglefan hard, OP. He has chops.
#57
10-23-2017, 07:04 AM
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