I went with a 98" Muscle kit from Zippers on my 01 TC. Couldn't be happier.
I haven't looked closely at Zippers yet, but will. Seems like a popular product and glad to hear that you're happy with the results..
Originally Posted by skydude426
Check out Fuel Moto's 98" big bore kit on their website. Then give them a call and talk to them about what you have on the bike now and what you want to achieve with the build. They will set you up and take care of you.
Thanks skydude, I called them yesterday per your suggestion and had a good conversation with their tech support team. There's some question about their complete kit working on an 88 with an SE cam plate, but their jugs, pistons and heads are still an option, and I can select cams elsewhere to suit my needs. One downside to this approach is they wont have a map they're tested for the setup. Not a big deal since I'm sure I'll wind up on a dyno, but it'd be nice to have a good starting map.
Originally Posted by Big Block 17
You answered your own question with the statement above. Big bore kit & cam. Browse Andrews or S&S sites for a cam that suits your riding style. There is lots of them available.
Thanks BB, I'll do that, but am hoping to get suggestions from people who have been down this path with needs and bikes like mine, and learn from their experiences.
Originally Posted by seanl
This is what I'd recommend based on my experience with Fuel Moto. The challenge will be where to have it installed here in the Bay Area if you chose to outsource the work.
Originally Posted by seanl
I'm still trying to figure out a shop to do my 107 install.
seani, I'll be doing the work myself, and have a family member who owns a shop in San Jose, so I'll have some backup if I get into trouble. Seems like Fuel Moto is doing good by the people on this forum.
Originally Posted by 0ldhippie
Since it is a 2000 with MM fuel injection, my recommendation is to trade it for a bike with a carb or a newer one with Delphi injection. Converting your will be expensive. MM parts are basically non existent anymore and any hop-up has always been limited.
better yet just buy mine for 10k...
hippie, I've spend a fair amount of time and money getting this bike right where I want it, so I'll probably just stick with it and work around the MM issue, but appreciate you bringing it up. It does need to be addressed.
Originally Posted by skydude426
Well if you like the bike and want to spend the money to upgrade the engine, you can spend some more and upgrade the EFI system with a new ECM with auto tune from Thunder Max. I have a Thunder Max on two bikes and they work very well. I can make any change I want and I never have to rely on someone to dyno tune them. I've probably saved the cost of both of them in dyno fees over the last few years.
Great tip on the Thunder Max! It *looks* like they may have stopped production on the one for my year though. They dont have it for sale on their site and a quick Google search didn't bring up any results.. They stock them for '02 and later years though.
Another issue is getting it shipped to me here in The People's Republic of California.
Originally Posted by ChromeJunkie
A couple of years ago, I had the S&S 97 inch big bore kit with Screamin Eagle ported heads on my 06 Heritage. Kept the 510G cams (for now). 98 hp and 102 lbs/torque. I’m very happy with this except I’ll be doing new cams in the future. I haven’t decided whether to go wit 583EZ start cams or 585s.
I just saw a set of new SE ported heads for my engine for $1200. Does that seem like a reasonable price? I could get mine ported for less, but I'm not sure how much other work they might need. Are ported SE heads substantially better than worked factory heads?
Originally Posted by BB59
There are a couple places in the Bay Area that do good work. RE Engineering in San Jose (close to the Airport) does excellent work. He is a pretty small shop but does everything. Recently had him rebuild a bottom end for a 06 RK and install a TImken conversion). Got it back with just about exactly .001 run out on the crank ... good work. He has a dyno in his shop but currently has no one to run it.
RC Cycle Hayward has been around forever and also has a good reputation. I have not use them since around 2008 but I live very close driving by there several times a week. There are always a dozen bikes in the lot. If anyone can get a MM set up to perform Dyno Bob at RC Cycle can do it.
With respect to the set up I'm running an S&S 98" kit in my son's 06 RK with TW 555-6R cams, D&D Fat Cat 2 into 1 exhaust and head work by Hannon,s in Hayward CA. Compression is set at about 10.3:1. This set up runs circles around my buddies 110" CVO Street Glides and can keep up with me on my 107 build pretty well (he's about 100 lbs lighter, I'm sure that helps)
Fuel Moto also has a 98" Big Bore kit as well but I'm not sure they set up the compression individually for different cam selections. The set of heads I had were previously decked and only 81CC (vs 85CC stock). I believe the FM 98" kit is based on stock head volume, A .030 head gasket and 10:1 compression. I could be mistaken but this is what was explained to me on the phone when I inquired. Some cams, my TW555-6R for example, perform better with a little more compression which is why I went with the S&S option and worked with Hannon's to get the compression set correctly. They actually machined the piston domes slightly to get the compression correct.
BB59, I had my last Harley (98 Wide Glide) dyno'd at RC in Hayward, and the results were excellent. They did some other work for me as well. I didn't know about RE but am glad to hear of a well-regarded shop in the south bay.
I'm doing my own work unless the cases need to be cracked which I'm not yet sure of. I'm chasing a noise that sure sounds like valve train, but after pulling the rockers, pushrods, lifters, cams, cam plate and oil pump, I haven't found an obvious problem yet. I also cracked the primary drive and the compensator assembly looks fine, and the nut was tight.
The service writer at Lane Splitter Harley said the recording of my woes sounds like another bike he's got in for a bad crank, but man it doesn't sound like a crank-related problem to me (hear recording below). If it comes down to having to split the cases, then I'd rather a shop do that for me and will contact RE for sure.
The timing on this coudn't be worse: I'm supposed to leave for Alaska mid June, so time is critical. I'm only doing this build work now because I have this thing so damned far apart already it seems a waste not to.
Appreciate your input on shops and your two builds. Gives me places to go and parts to consider.
I think $1200 is a little steep for them. I don’t know if the price increased $300 in the past couple of years or not. I would have sent mine out and had them reworked for less money, but I wanted the bike back ASAP. If you are not on a timeline, check wit Scott at Hillside Cycles. I’ve heard nothing but good about Hillside and you can find him in the engine section.
It turns out that my crankcase needs to be split so I'm having a local indie (R.E. Engineering in San Jose CA) do the work for me. In his experience, S & S parts give him the least trouble in the long run, so he's suggesting their 4" Sidewinder kit, which will bring the motor to 100 CI.
Cams, induction, and head work are undecided.
Pulling the motor from the chassis today for delivery to the shop
What did you find that is causing you to split the case. I'm curious and always looking to learn more.
Dont know yet. All I do know is that I've stripped the engine down to the crankcase and still no obvious cause for the racket. I paid R..E. Engineering a visit and played the audio for the owner. Given that my pinion side run-out is only .003" he's suspecting a rod issue. I'll definitely post more as more is discovered.
Sounds like a bike I've seen that had a beat up pinion shaft that was allowing the crank sprocket to come out of time. Every now and again it would line up and sound fine.
It's coming together, decisions wise. I can't tell you all how much I appreciate your feedback. Even if I didn't choose your specific recommendation, rest assured that every reply here was used to inform my choices.
My builder is ordering parts today. As mentioned above, going wth the S & S 100" kit w/ 10.5 compressio ratio.
Decided this morning on S & S 570 Easy Start gear drive cams.
Details of head and crank work to follow, once he's had time to inspect what I have.
The build is done, and I pick up my engine tomorrow. The builder found that a press-fit bearing journal on the crankshaft was rotating freely and apparently wasn't supposed to, so we put in a new crank. He also found a pit in the big-end bearing seat on one of the rods that he was concerned could be a future point of failure so we replaced that as well.
Because I'm literally made of money, he fairly easily talked me into putting a Thunderheader on the bike because my stock head pipes with V & H slip-ons would leave a lot of power on the table otherwise. It wasn't a hard sell conceptually because I've thought about TH for a long time, and I think I'm actually the one who brought it up, but damn, paying for a set of pipes at the same time as a very expensive motor build was a hard pill to swallow, but it just didn't make sense not to, not when I'm already in this far. The price of this unplanned, expensive venture has had me close to vomiting more than once... lol
If someone can distract Murphy for a few days, then maybe I can have this bike running by the end of the weekend, get it to the tuner Monday, and actually make my planned June 16 departure.
S & S Sidwinder 100" Big Bore Kit
S & S Easy Start 570 gear drive cams in Screamin Eagle cam plate
05-19-2018, 04:50 PM
