Awe did poor you get your panties in a bunch because i said what needed to be said? Whats good for the goose is good for the gander. If you want to be respected try giving it instead of expecting it after disrespecting somebody. Dont give it if you cant take it.

 

redacted context

 

i wasnt even alive in the 70s jackass. As far as cracking a book, ive done it enough for an mba so if you cant make a valid contribution to a thread do us all a favor and keep your dick beaters off the keyboard and dont say anything at all.

 

Thanks everyone. I should add that their is only one part that scares me a bit about doing it myself and that is the wiring. I watched a YouTube video and everything looked pretty easy until he got to a part where he had to pull the PIN connector apart in order to fish the wire through the handlebars. Fishing the wires is one thing but pulling apart a PIN connector makes me a nervous. I didn't understand why he had to pull the PIN connector apart in order to fish the wires back through the handlebars when he didnt have too to pull the wires out of the old bars. That part was a little unclear to me. Do I really have to do that?

 

I did not feel comfortable doing these 16's, so I paid my indy mechanic his going rate of $65 / hour to do the install.
He was a service manager for HD shop for 20 years before opening his own shop.
I have all the confidence in the world with this man.....never second guessing his work.
Money well spent.

 

I had mine done by KST at their vendor tent, he wired the new bars on the bench before ever touching my bike. Two guys worked on it and I was in and out in 40 mins. They defiantly knew what they were doing as I'm sure they do a ton of these jobs at events.

 

OP, if you change your mind and do the deed yourself, I'll make my usual suggestion...break the project into two phases.

First, get the bars and install them. Determine at that point if and how long your wiring, cables, and hoses need to be. It's very possible that your handlebar wiring won't need to be extended of you can reroute the chassis wiring. THEN order what you need.

At first, this may seem to be the long way around. But it can save time and money in the long run.

The last advice I have is to wait for the off season to do this project. ..if things go to hell in a handbasket, you could be down a week or two.

 

Good advice... if you're not comfortable doing the repair/mod, get someone you trust to do it for you....

Over the years, there were jobs I wasn't willing to try, that I will do now without batting an eye... live and learn....

However, the canbus bikes are much easier to change bars than the older bikes. The electrical wires are all plug and play... they both plug into the switchpaks on the handle bars and plug into the harness (under fairing or nacelle) of the bikes. The connectors are smaller than in the past, which makes them much easier to feed through the bars and there's no need to remove and reinstall (an area where mistakes can be made) pins from electrical connectors.... You can buy a new harness from Namz that will work for bars up to 14". It replaces the OEM harness, so you avoid adding an extension that will have a connector/splice inside the bars.

Of course, if you need to change clutch or brake lines, that's just a little extra time and effort. Certainly not a daunting task...

The job can easily be done by someone with basic to intermediate mechanical skills... just take your time, refer to the service manual when in doubt, then take pride in a job well-done...!

 

 

you can't ask for price quotes without all the info.
What bike (fairing or not)?
what bars? Wire extensions needed? brake line extensions needed? clutch cable needed?
Wiring internal in bars?

So much is involved that you don't realize.
the original post is much too vague.