Jackall under my F350 to break the bead. Change em out with spoons on the floor. I can do the front in an hour. About 90 mins for the rear. Bit of a workout but oh well. Hardest part is getting it to inflate. I run a 150 on a 3 inch rim. Not enough room in the garage for a tire machine. Christ I have 4 boys all driving. Given the parts they have scattered about plus my bikes sled and the wife's Challenger. I don't have room for another screw driver.

 

The tire irons I posted earlier in the thread also serve as a bead breaker, and it work very well for that.

I had no issue reseating the new tires. Just removed the valve core and shot air into the tire, bead seated itself.

Ari Henning from Motorcyclist on line, has a video demonstrating these irons as he installs a new tire. Well worth the view for anyone considering doing their own tires.

 

I have one of these, Cycle Hill
I have changed 3 sets on my bike, couple sets of ATV tires and a set of dirt bike tires.
I use Ride-On to balance and protect against punctures. The changer works great.

 

Just mounted my own front and rear on the ultra. There a lot of creative and interesting bead breaking ideas on the internet, However, all it took for me was a set of Motion Pro bead breaker tire irons and 2 sets of cheap plastic rim protectors (need 4). Get tires hot in the sun, lube with some soapy spray and take small bites with the bead breakers and once the bead is off, it is a piece of cake. It doesn't seem like it is working until one part slips off the bead, then it is off. Mounting hot tires that have sat in the sun is also pretty easy. While I was in there, I installed those 90 degree valve stems to make checking pressure and filling tires easy, then used RideOn sealer and balancer. The hardest part of the job is pulling the mufflers to remove the rear tire, but you usually need to do that anyway to get it done at shop for a reasonable price. Glad I only need to do it every 15-20k mi., but wouldn't hesitate to do it again...I would much rather work on my own stuff than haul it around to waste time and money having others work on it, if at all possible.

 

I will be doing this task next week when my Motion Pro irons and my tire come in. I will be doing the Ride-On as well.

 

I made a tire changer and use small tire irons. The hardest part is breaking the bead.

 

I call bullshit on this one. I've been using Dyna Beads for 12 years and they don't even wear the tube in my 21" tire and damn sure don't wear the inside of the tubeless tires, breaks loose some of the fuzz, but never wears the inner layer.
BTW for the OP, I use a Harbor Freight tire machine with Mojoblocks and a Mojolever.

 

Plus they tend to wear away the inner most (aka the air-tight) layer of the tire as the spin.[/QUOTE]

I just changed a Michelin Commander 2 with 33000 miles on it. There was no wear inside the tire from the balance beads.

I have a cousin who owns a tire shop, he changes mine for free, I just remove and replace the wheels and take the rotors off for him. I was telling him about guys using zip ties. He doesn't think it would work with the commander 2. He thinks the sidewall is too stiff. He said 'I think you could drive on this with no air it's so stiff'

 

Two 8" C-Clamps to break the beads, Rim protectors, Tire Irons, soapy water in spray bottle. Zip tie the new tires before putting them on the wheels, makes it easier. Ride-On.

 

Cycle Hill changer, budget model NoMar made, but still a sturdy machine. Sure spares my aging wrists compared to tire irons. Holds the wheel (have to let the air out for the grips to grab the rim, though) nicely for bearing changes and wheel polishing, too.



I only use the balancer to find the best fit for the tire, just rotate it on the rim till it's at the least out of balance spot. None of the tires I've used had that dot. I just lightly stick on weights to see how much is needed, then take them off when I'm using dyna beads. I think a lot of the "didn't work on mine" comments have been because they didn't use enough. The dyna bead chart for different size tires might work for most, but some are a lot more out of balance, and if one ounce is enough, why use 2 or 3. Last time I bought balancer, I got RideOn, will see how that holds up on the last set of tires.

Airing up tubeless tires - Volume matters, need an air chuck without the stem depressor in it. You can buy them, I just took a basic chuck, unscrewed the inner tip, and drilled it out as large as I dared. Puts a whole lot more air in faster. Coupled with my 200 psi compressor, seldom a problem. Also helps to put 2x4 chunks or oil bottles in the new tires, especially if they come plastic wrapped with the beads touching, and let them sit in the sun for a few hours so they spread out. Some of the new tires I've bought lately came with cardboard spreaders in them, great idea.

Looks like a flimsier try at a NoMar changer. Hard to find used NoMars, though, they really last and people like them. I got lucky and found mine with all the attachments and a balancer for a little under the price of just the basic changer.

Won't put as much load on the hitch as a tailer with a Harley on it. You could get a little careless and scratch or dent the tailgate, though. I'm considering getting the hitch adapter for mine because I have to move a bike out of the garage and bolt mine to the floor every time I use it. Should just sell a couple bikes I don't really need.