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New clutch needed.
My 2010 Road King is in need of a new clutch. Clutch seems to slip when letting out from a stop. Doesn’t seem to grab like it used to. One, how hard is it to replace it myself. Two, is the Barnett kevlar clutch the way to go. The bike has 21000 miles on it (I’m the second owner, bought with 15513 miles). I can’t see a normal clutch adjustment helping, but I could be wrong. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks. |
Also, mostly ride two up. Between myself and the wife, we are running close to max capacity of the bike. Figured that this was a needed piece of the puzzle. |
Usually they start slipping going up hills, or under hard riding in fifth or sixth gear. I would try adjusting it first. How old is the fluid? Maybe it's time for a change?
Nothing wrong with the clutch you mentioned. I would also recommend Energy One clutches. I'm running one in mine with the extra plate and heavier spring and like it. If you do decide /need a new one it's not a hard job to do yourself. |
I have about 3500-4000 miles on the primary fluid. Running Syn 3 for all. Was thinking should go back to non synthetic formula plus for the primary. Just had the clutch cable changed out recently (taller bars). Just seems like the clutch doesn’t grab when taking off. |
Clutch not difficult to change. Have the correct manual handy, and consult it. I changed to the Barnett Kevlar extra plate setup, and it's just as easy to install as a stock setup. It'll take all the abuse a stage one can dish out without whimpering. ( Not like that's a great big deal, but you get the idea)
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Not sure if this a tin man spill but the clutches are huge and a wet clutch rarely wears since the plates and disks are oil wetted. I can only guess if you slip it a lot and nail the throttle, guess you could wear it out. Unless you just want to replace it, I would adjust it first.
Mine at 35 K when I replace alternator rotor looked brand new. Steel plates were perfectly flat and had no measurable wear. Fibers where the same. I measured them with an outside micrometer in the non-wear and contact surfaces. If after adjustment, it still fills strange, I would make sure the cable felt good when you adjust it by removing adjuster all the way and lever it. I would also check the throwout bearing on the right side. |
Since you just had a clutch cable installed, I would try adjusting the clutch first. If that doesn't work then replace the clutch. I went with an Alto carbonite and am happy with it. Here is a link about changing the clutch. I highly recommend a factory service manual. Hope this helps.
https://www.hdforums.com/forum/touring-models/1139860-alto-carbonite-clutch.html Phil |
It's worth checking and adjusting the clutch, it's easy and free.
Having said that, my 07 clutch died a hard death at about 27k. Went with the Energy One +1 kevlar clutch with their heavy duty spring and the reccomended Formula+ fluid. Bike is stage two and the wife and I are close to weight limit too. It does not slip unless I make it. If you're mechanicaly inclined it's not a hard fix. Have the manual handy and be sure to get the half spring out. |
Some people have had them wear out early but that’s not normal. You should adjust it to the facory setting when it’s completely cold (over night). Mine has 114,000 and it’s still as good as new. I think I’m closer to the norm. |
I went with the Barnett Kevlar clutch plate kit, and took their advice and used Dexron ATF. Very satisfied.
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