I have an '07 Ultra Classic, all pretty 'stock' other than some slip-ons, an SE Air Filter assembly w/ a K&N filter, and a Vance & Hines Fuelpak set up as per their map. The engine seems to run beautifully and I've no complaints about engine performance at all. However, right from a dead stop break-away thru 4th gear I just have the feeling that it's over-geared. Once shifting into 5th gear this sensation gets worse, and 6th makes it pretty evident that HD made a pretty bad choice in gearing for this bike. My 'research' on this (if you can call reading all kinds of forum entries and internet comments) seems to support that the '07 and '08 models did have some issues with gearing, as well as with other things like the Compensator. Anyway, regarding this gearing issue, I'm thinking about addressing it by removing the 32 trans drive pulley and replacing it with a 30 tooth unit. I believe my bike has the 'stock' belt on it...which mates to a 66 tooth rear pulley. Most information I read seems to support that a 30 tooth pulley can be installed with the 66 tooth rear and that there is enough room with the axle adjusters to tighten the belt properly and still have a bit of room left. Or, one can push the wheel forward an easily add a 68 tooth rear pulley, and even a 70 tooth and 'not' have to replace the stock belt. Can anyone confirm any of this? For the record, I take a lot of extended trips, often '2-up' and loaded. As such, my 6th gear has proven pretty useless as-is since I don't usually get much over 70 to 75 mph. Just curious what comments if any can be made about this? Many thanks! Tom D.

 

 

You've gotta use the rpms man. I mean you can go to a different gear ratio or you can just ride the thing from 2800-3000 rpms which is where a twinky is happy and it will be fine.

Lugging these motors is bad for them anyway and if you gear it down to where it feels "right" by you, you're just going to be more inclined to lug it around. Ride it like it was meant to be ridden and it's going to be fine. It felt the same way to me when I went to an 07, like something was wrong with it. Especially coming from a bike that made 110lb ft at the time by 2100 rpms. Once I got used to it, it's perfectly fine and I have no issues fully loaded and two up.

 

 

The engine is fine, you're not using it as it should be ridden! You can safely rev it to 5k rpm every gear change. Swap it for an M8 - if the reports are true, it has monumental low-end torque - just the sort of thing you should find right up your street!

 

Well I thought the same as the OP so... I changed to a 68 tooth rear pulley and "I" think it helped a LOT, the only thing it does is throw off your speedometer by the two teeth percentage. It made the stock belt fairly uncomfortable to get on the rear pulley but not impossible. The bike is a 2007 Road King. I used a sportsters rear pulley, It was a bolton fit. Good Luck with your change. I can still run 80 to 85 MPH down to Interstate just fine and it made 6th a lot more "friendly"

 

 

Harley agreed with the OP and went to a 68 tooth rear pulley in 09 and newer. The OP does not state if he has the cush drive rear pulley or not. With my 08 Road King, it seemed far less work to change the rear pulley to the 68 tooth rather than disassemble the primary to change the transmission pulley. The change improved drivability and fuel economy. If the OP has an additional reason to get into the primary, the smaller front pulley would be right there for the change, and the speedometer/cruise range would not be thrown off. I cured the speedo error by taking the speedo apart and re-indexing the needle. Now the speedo is dead on at 70 BUT the max speed for cruise is about 81 mph now. I keep bumping against that on the 75 mph interstates. Both the 6th gear light and the cruise are dependent on a certain ratio of engine rpm and speed. I can recall no one saying that the smaller front pulley caused a problem with the function of either, but it is possible.
Disregard the cruise/6th gear light concern, the the ratio between the engine rpm and transmission output shaft will remain unchanged.

 

OK, a lot of good comments here! I appreciate them all. Question: Any particular 'year' of Sportster 68T pulley I should be looking for here? Again, I don't plan to ride this bike at 90 or 100+ MPH! I will likely ride it at 70 to 75 for extended periods, and my experience tells me that if geared up just a bit, this bike will ride a LOT better at that speed. Plus, I also have some gear 'hunting' at around 30 to 40 MPH that I think might be improved by a change in ratio as well. As stated, this seems to be supported by the numerous posts all over the internet which seem to express the same thing as related to '07 and '08. Yes, the bike could be left in 5th gear, but doing this rather limits the purpose of having a 6th gear. So, I'm thinking that, as I've got to change the rear wheel anyway, maybe I'll try to fit a 68 tooth pulley and see if I can squeeze it in there without a belt change. If not, then I guess I'll do the 30T drive pulley and the 68T rear pulley together. At this point, I think the 30T / 68T is the way I'll end up. Hey, if I don't like it, I can always go back, or take another turn! I might add that I've also got an '05 UC, and it's original owner had the 6-speed SE transmission installed at the time of purchase. Though an 88 CID as compared to the 96 in the '07, that bike with it's 70T rear pulley seems to be a lot more 'at ease' on the Highway at 70 to 75 than the '07 does. In looking at Tach readings on both bikes, it seems that the few hundred RPM difference between the two at that speed would also support this gear change. So, like I said, worth a try and if I don't like it I can always put it back the way it was. Thanks to all!! Tom D.

 

I've had an 07 Ultra since new. Installed a 68T many years ago. Not a huge difference but noticeable. It easily fits.
Mine is the 68T from a 2007 Japanese model Sportster. It accepts the IDS (cush drive) update which I recommend.
I would do that first then decide if you want to change the front. If you do, I recommend going to a 31 rather than 32.
This would put your rear wheel back very close to the stock position.
Given your description of your riding style I don't think you need the 32.