My Touring ABS Flush Recall, Failure, And The MoCo's Resolution
 

I recently posted about "ABS Failures" are covered under the "Extended Service Plan". This post is on how the issue was resolved.
I took the Road King to the dealer for the "Brake Fluid Flush Recall". While connected to the DT2 during the flush, the rear ABS locked up, pedal hard at the top. They had to order parts, asked to keep the bike a few days. Fine, I said. While there, they checked over the bike for other issues, and some were found and discussed with me to have all fixed under the ESP, including updated compensator, and some loose shifter linkage. Fine I said, do it.
Few days later they called, said bike was ready. I picked up the day after. Service tech was very nice and thorough, said OP Bearing looked good, chain self adjuster look good, bad linkages replaced, comp replaced, Trans and primary oils changed, ABS HCU replaced, all flushed and now doing fine. He gave me the old HCU, I rode the bike home, all appears well.
The HCU replacement is the same, identical, to the old one. (Contrary to what I have heard) Same one works both front and rear.
(ABS HCU Touring 48343-09)
https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.hdf...11c58d4d58.jpg
Note the 4 fittings are rear, master cyl rear / front, master cyl front
https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.hdf...7f3b219904.jpg
This shows the HCU "Motor" location, held in by the two screws, easily removed. Note the 2 blade connectors that power the motor when commanded, easy to jump to and confirm operation. (Which I did) On the driven end is a small cam that creates the pulse. Quite simple, actually.
https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.hdf...9d0336e2d9.jpg
The aluminum block would need to be destroyed to view the innards, which I might do later.
The tech cleaned it, there was no trash seen, "It was just stuck", He said. ("Worked as it should When I cleaned it out", He added).
If there is something inside of it that didn't clean out, your guess is a good as mine.
Interesting Note Here: He told me as part of His routine, He connected the bike and found some software updates available for my Road King, one that deals with the ABS activation. He said they believe part of the "Sticking" issue may be due to very seldom ABS activation. One of the software updates deals directly with that issue by initiating the ABS at a lower "Threshold" than previously set at. He said I would probably notice ABS activation (Pulsing/clicking) more often now than it was originally.
On my ride home I got heavy on the brakes, in a controlled manner, and that seems to be the case. Not by much, but there does appear to be a difference. Just passing that along, I have not heard any mention of that before.
In full disclosure, I have flushed my brakes about once a year, but have never done the full DT2 flush before. No moisture or trash noticed in my brake fluid by the tech. Also, I have not activated my ABS very many times (At least not intentionally), except for when absolutely necessary.
Maybe this will help with the issue, time will tell. The tech advised to go into ABS "Mode" from time to time safely, and I intend to.
To you guys that take one of the affected bikes into the dealer for something, ask about software updates for your bike. I would think they would do that - without saying - anytime they get their hands on your bike.
Finally, someone asked me about the going "Labor Rate". Not applied in my case, but here it is:
https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.hdf...8b0371214d.jpg

Ride Safe!

Thanx for that intel, $85 an hour is better than $120 plus at most dealers in my neck of the woods.

What does it look like when you remove those two torx screws and remove motor?

At around 6 minutes he guts one. Simple design really.

Not a good idea to have an open MC cover over painted lowers.

Yes, thanks for the intel. That's interesting about the software updates and, more interesting is the fact it's the same part. That's crazy! Like you, that's the first I've heard of software updates.

If you do destroy the innards, see if you can pinpoint where these so-called reservoirs are located. I've got a used 2009-2011 ABS module sitting on my work bench right now. I want to open it up, but I haven't decided how to go about "disassembling" it just yet.

Again, thanks for the update.

Edit - BTW, what voltage did you give to the motor?

The trick will be to be patient and take as much time as needed to disassemble the unit. It's nice that the HD mechanic posted a video on YOUTUBE but he was more into the entertainment value of destroying something. A lot of the assembly is press fit together. You will have to develop a way of pulling it apart and not cutting anything. I am anxious to get a hold of a failed unit and see what parts failed. There are two types of components, the two pistons driven by the motor creating the pulse and the valves that direct the flow. It looks like the pistons can readily be removed and cleaned.

Tell the tech that the EMC cycles the ABS every time that the ignition is turned on. On a typical one day ride with stops at a restaurant, gas station and/ scenic overview this would result in several cycles. No need to periodically brake heavy.

So what does the Harley digitech machine do that a guy couldn't do at home by simply bypassing the BCM and powering up the ABS module at the electrical connector when doing a brake fluid flush?

I'm sorry, but that is incorrect. The ABS control module checks for certain conditions (voltages/speed/etc), but most certainly does not actuate valves. You would clearly hear it (if you haven't heard it, watch my YouTube video for our product. The noise is very loud and distinct).