Check the ground wire for the rear tour pak lights. I just changed my lens out for the smoked light bar and before putting the liner back in turned the ignition switch to run to check the lights. I had nothing. Checked the wiring again and noticed I forget to reconnect the ground wire.
Interested in selling the red lense bar, if it fits mine?
I was hoping you would find the negative E had backed out of the plug.
The lights are LED, light emitting diodes and current will only flow positive to negative thru a diode. One last check you can make is checking the continuity of the light bar wiring. Hook the black to E Ground, and a good light bar would show continuity with each of the other wires as they all share the common ground wire. Try reversing the leads and see if you lose continuity.
One last check you can make is checking the continuity of the light bar wiring. Hook the black to E Ground, and a good light bar would show continuity with each of the other wires as they all share the common ground wire. Try reversing the leads and see if you lose continuity.
Leads Black to Black, Red to each pin:
A 800
C 800
D 800
E 400
Your tests make it look like everything is good, so what could cause the problem? Poor connection at 287, is the ground pin making good contact with the socket. Plug the light bar back into 287, do this several times just in case it has a little corrosion and see if it lights up.
I have enough little insulated jumper wires with insulated alligator clips that I would hook one to the light bar neg post and ground and one from B Blue wire to battery positive and see if the running lights come on.
If not find connector 12 just in front of tour pak, I'll add a picture in a minute from my iPad, With The light bar plugged in and 12 separated put black on 6 which is grd and positive meter lead on 3 which is blue running light if my thinking is correct you should show continuity this would prove the black is making good contact at 287
I have enough little insulated jumper wires with insulated alligator clips that I would hook one to the light bar neg post and ground and one from B Blue wire to battery positive and see if the running lights come on.
If not find connector 12 just in front of tour pak, I'll add a picture in a minute from my iPad, With The light bar plugged in and 12 separated put black on 6 which is grd and positive meter lead on 3 which is blue running light if my thinking is correct you should show continuity this would prove the black is making good contact at 287
The lights do not come on when jumping to the battery and ground.
I have continuity with connector 12.
I guess the light bar is bad somehow, Any way of taking it off and testing it?
I think i should go on ebay and buy one, what do you think? if there's a way of testing the lightbar itself, let me know.
I think I lead you down the wrong path checking the light bar. I have a side light from a 2012 so I tried testing it using continuity and it didn’t work. If your meter has the diode check function you can try that.
I’ll put up pictures of how to check with the diode function and you could try that but if nothing came on in the last test I think you proved the light is bad.
with the side light hooked up to the meter red to blue and black to black one led would come on. The meter must use V and current to check the diode. Also notice when in ohms the meter show O.L. Hooked up both ways
03-15-2019, 09:03 AM
